overheating?

[deerhunterf350]

Correct the Pressure Cap raises the Boiling Temp, I took this from Wikipedia.com "Antifreeze is a water-based liquid coolant used in gasoline and diesel engines. Compounds are added to the water to reduce the freezing point of the mixture below the lowest temperature that the engine is likely to be exposed to, and to inhibit corrosion in cooling systems which often contain a range of electrochemically incompatible metals (aluminum, cast iron, copper, lead solder, etc.). The term 'colligative agent' is to be preferred as, in warm climates, the benefit of these compounds is to increase the boiling point of the coolant, which should then be more properly referred to as 'anti-boil', and as anti-freeze decreases and increases both properties, respectively, 'colligative agent' more accurately describes the liquid. The term 'engine coolant' is widely used in industry. " In addition to the Pressure cap, anti-freeze adds more anti-boil properties to the Coolant.

I don't remeber exactly what the product was called, but a Friend had a Bored and stroked 302 in and old mustang drag car, He bought an aftermarket Dual Core Radiator that was rated for a Big Block , and still had overheating problems. He bought 3 quarts of some Additive, removed 3 Quarts of coolant(50/50 water/antifreeze mix) , added this to the system and it dropped the Temp by 30 - 35 degrees. I don't know if it was acceptable for Diesel use or not.

 

[sandman2234]

Due to the nature of a diesel engine with wet sleeves, I don't think I would take the chance on a couple weeks without antifreeze. The consequences are too hard to repair. Resleeving a block is no fun, even for a veteran mechanic.
I would check the movement of the coolant as mentioned, with the cap off. You can also check the thermostat since you will only open the radiator cap when it is cold. By the time it starts getting warm, your pump should start moving fluid across the top of the radiator and you will know that they are both working. If no flow, check the thermostat by removing from tractor and putting on a pan on the stove. Use a candy thermometer if you have one, or just note how long before the water starts boiling when it opens. Lower temp and see if it closes. Repeat several times.
One thing you really need to make sure of it that you are getting air flow. Tiny amounts of grass and pollen build up to clog the air flow thru a radiator. Flush with a good pressure hose, in the reverse direction of the airflow.
Most of these things have been mentioned, just wanted to hit them again. A water pump on a tractor usually lasts a long time. I suspected mine, doing everything yours is doing, except the chirp, and it was just a radiator clogged with grass in the end.
David from jax

 

[RobJ]

Due to the nature of a diesel engine with wet sleeves, I don't think I would take the chance on a couple weeks without antifreeze. The consequences are too hard to repair. Resleeving a block is no fun, even for a veteran mechanic.

These little Kubota engines are more like a car engine. Solid cast with machined sleeves. The sleeves on my L2500(looking at the parts manual) are not replaceable like on My BIL's JD350 or his old International 384, both engine I rebuilt for him. So with a solid set up like this a couple weeks shouldn't give me to much trouble, but I plan on putting the anitfreeze back in. I plan on pulling the radiator and flushing it out to make sure. I've actually bought a new head gasket and may replace it this winter. So I'm holding off on the anitfreeze while I keep dumping the system. I flushed it again this weekend while scratching my head on the overheading problem.

BTW while looking at the parts manual I noticed the pistons and rings come in standard and a +.50mm (about +22 thousanths). Here's hoping I never need any of those.

 

[3RRL]

RobJ,
I've read many of your posts and see that you are a resourceful guy. If I were you, I'd fabricate some kind of shroud...even if it does not fit perfectly. IMO it would help tremendously. I'd definitely put anti-freeze in also...if for nothing more than lubrication (water pump etc.) and rust prevention.

 

[RobJ]

Resourceful? I call it cheap in most cases (not pokin fun at you..just me )

It'll all get in there it's just this boger really has me scratching my head. Fabbing a shroud might be something I will look into but as another overheater mentioned mine started doing this all of a sudden. I use it even during the winter but ran the FM one day and noticed the temps and the weeping water from the cap overflow tube. The only real problem I did discover was the thermostat was not working properly. It had plenty of green water in the radiator this winter. But with the tractor itself staying inside a garage and our mild winters it is really in no fear of freezing without a prolong cold spell. But "something" happened to make the change. And that's what is bothering me the most. What I've done...

new cap (slight tear in the seal)
thermostat - needed, not working correctly
flush radiator - lots of water
check water pump - run top hose(discharge) on the ground will filling with fresh water, plenty of water flow.
water flow when cap removed
removed suction hose - inspec
remove bypass hose - inspect
run with NO thermostat
clean radiator fins with gunk, then simple green, then Joy
Spray water on the radiator while hot and running, temp comes down
Flush radiator with water while not running, remove bottom hose, cover with hand, fill radiator, remove hand, radiator drains in seconds...I gues this shows good flow through most of the cores.

Next steps - remove radiator or make a high pressure device (bent tube) to force water down the core and fush.

Replace head gasket - Not seeing anthing in the water, blowby seems normal, but I know a slight leak causes high pressure air to excape. Even a small volume of air under pressure leaking causes the air temp to rise and anything around it to rise...IE head, water jackets.

??? if all else fails....as BIL would say...runit and "poof" test it.

 

[Doc_Bob]

new cap (slight tear in the seal)
thermostat - needed, not working correctly
flush radiator - lots of water
check water pump - run top hose(discharge) on the ground will filling with fresh water, plenty of water flow.
water flow when cap removed
removed suction hose - inspec
remove bypass hose - inspect
run with NO thermostat
clean radiator fins with gunk, then simple green, then Joy
Spray water on the radiator while hot and running, temp comes down
Flush radiator with water while not running, remove bottom hose, cover with hand, fill radiator, remove hand, radiator drains in seconds...I gues this shows good flow through most of the cores.

Have you checked the temperature of the coolant?
Bob

 

[firemanpat2910]

If spraying water on the radiator cools the temp down I would assume the problem is in the radiator,or air flow. You have eliminated most radiator spots so what about air flow?
1. is fan slipping
2. have you installed grill gaurd,FEL,brush gaurd or other restriction?
3. make a shroud even a temporary cardboard one and see if it helps.
4 are the "fins" bent or crushed on radiator?
5. are there hydro or trans lines in radiator possibly this fluid is overheating.
6. have you ever used stop leak in this radiator?

Good luck

 

[firemanpat2910]

on a some what related note ,I had a buddy once that had a leak in his radiator, he soldered it up and "pressure tested" it. Gain 3 more leaks,fixed them tested again got 2 more. I showed up and he was testing with a 120psi. air hose...on a 14# system so be carefull when you "pressure flush" a radiator.

 

[Egon]

check water pump - run top hose(discharge) on the ground will filling with fresh water, plenty of water flow

Just wonering wher the water pump is located?

 

[Doc_Bob]

i also feel like the engine is running hot but again its only my impression because i don't have a temp. gauge.

If you are doing all this work on a "hunch" that the thing is hot without knowing if it is hot, you are a better man than I am. Sounds like a lot of work without knowing if it needs to be done.
Bob