P versus E tires

[GManBart]

Here's the situation: I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra Crewmax Limited 4x4 with the 5.7L engine, and heavy towing package. The Max gross vehicle weight is listed at 7,020lbs, and the max towing weight is listed at 10,100lbs. I've only towed a max of maybe 6,000lbs before, so it the tires really never made any difference. Now, with a much bigger, heavier tractor, and some implements, I'm looking to add a 10-12K max gross weight trailer (12K only for some extra safety factor, and in case I get a truck with a higher max towing weight). I don't plan many trips, or any long trips, but I want to be able to haul my tractor and implements myself without worrying.

The truck came with P275/65/18 tires, with a load rating around 2300lbs at full inflation (44psi). I've hated the tires since day one (really bad in the rain), and they're just getting to 50K, and while they have some tread left, it's time for them to go. The tires I'm looking at replacing them with come in both P and E ratings, so roughly 2,300lbs and 3,400lbs respectively.

I keep doing the math, and if I assume I'm only loading the trailer, and it's right around 10K, I don't see how I'd go over the limits for the P rated tires. The truck empty is ballpark 5,500lbs, and the tongue weight shouldn't be over 1000lbs, so I'd only be adding 500lbs to each rear tire. They should be able to handle that pretty readily, it would seem

Am I missing something? Oh, BTW, the trailers I'm looking at all have brakes on both axles, and I've got a lot experience pulling heavy loads (drove big rigs, tandem dumps with tag-alongs, cement mixers, etc as a kid).

The E rated tires are actually $8 cheaper per tire, so it's not a cost thing, I'm just wondering how much harsher the ride will be going with the E tire, and there's no way to guess at that. Thoughts?

 

[RobertN]

Not sure how to verify(dealer?), but make sure your rim is rated for weight and pressure too. does not do much good to put E rated tires on an underated rim.

E rated tire will ride stiffer. But, you will not run it at 80psi all the time; you would wear out the center of the tire. You are kind of entering the set tire pressure by what the tread mark looks like after running over a wet spot on pavement.... Just a guess, but you probably will not find inflation info for your truck, for E rated tires.

 

[nahfwt]

E rated tire will be stiffer but, should also handle a little better due to the stiffer sidewall. I have always run LT tires on my trucks. You could also run a load C or D rated LT tire if you can find one in that size.

 

[Mikeeemo]

I have the same truck. I have the E load rated on the rear. (Guy ordered them by mistake). I will run them for now on. They do a better job handling the load.

Be careful with your trailer choice, a 12k is a lot of trailer for that truck. I am shopping for a 10k.

Are you getting a bumper pull or a goose neck?

If its a bumper pull don't overload your receiver.

Now, if we could just get Toyota to build us a Tundra with a GVWR of 11k.....

 

[RobertN]

Good point. Mentioned in another thread recently; your hitch probably has a rating for no weight disti hitch, and with a weight disti hitch. The weight capacity can vary greatly...

If its a bumper pull don't overload your receiver.

 

[GManBart]

I have the same truck. I have the E load rated on the rear. (Guy ordered them by mistake). I will run them for now on. They do a better job handling the load.

Be careful with your trailer choice, a 12k is a lot of trailer for that truck. I am shopping for a 10k.

Are you getting a bumper pull or a goose neck?

If its a bumper pull don't overload your receiver.

Now, if we could just get Toyota to build us a Tundra with a GVWR of 11k.....

I looked at 10k and 12k in the same model/brand, and it's only about 150lbs difference in empty weight. I can't imagine actually going over 10k with what I have now, but figured the extra axle rating wouldn't be bad if I get a bigger truck down the road....and I don't lose enough payload to make a real difference. I do have to go back and get pricing on the 10k, because I only asked about the 12k.

Now if Toyota would finally come through with their diesel Tundra....:cool2:

 

[GManBart]

Good point. Mentioned in another thread recently; your hitch probably has a rating for no weight disti hitch, and with a weight disti hitch. The weight capacity can vary greatly...

Good point. I started looking at the bumper hitch last night, and might have to resort to the manual to check on that. I wouldn't be opposed to he weight distro hitch either way....won't hurt anything.

 

[Xfaxman]

I looked at 10k and 12k in the same model/brand, and it's only about 150lbs difference in empty weight. I can't imagine actually going over 10k with what I have now, but figured the extra axle rating wouldn't be bad if I get a bigger truck down the road....and I don't lose enough payload to make a real difference. I do have to go back and get pricing on the 10k, because I only asked about the 12k.

Now if Toyota would finally come through with their diesel Tundra....:cool2:

Don't forget the weight of the trailer. I got a 14K GN, but can only haul about 9K. It has a metal deck and weighs 5K, empty on the scales at the co-op.

 

[Bob77064]

Here's the situation: I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra Crewmax Limited 4x4 with the 5.7L engine, and heavy towing package. The Max gross vehicle weight is listed at 7,020lbs, and the max towing weight is listed at 10,100lbs. I've only towed a max of maybe 6,000lbs before, so it the tires really never made any difference. Now, with a much bigger, heavier tractor, and some implements, I'm looking to add a 10-12K max gross weight trailer (12K only for some extra safety factor, and in case I get a truck with a higher max towing weight). I don't plan many trips, or any long trips, but I want to be able to haul my tractor and implements myself without worrying.

The truck came with P275/65/18 tires, with a load rating around 2300lbs at full inflation (44psi). I've hated the tires since day one (really bad in the rain), and they're just getting to 50K, and while they have some tread left, it's time for them to go. The tires I'm looking at replacing them with come in both P and E ratings, so roughly 2,300lbs and 3,400lbs respectively.

I keep doing the math, and if I assume I'm only loading the trailer, and it's right around 10K, I don't see how I'd go over the limits for the P rated tires. The truck empty is ballpark 5,500lbs, and the tongue weight shouldn't be over 1000lbs, so I'd only be adding 500lbs to each rear tire. They should be able to handle that pretty readily, it would seem

Am I missing something? Oh, BTW, the trailers I'm looking at all have brakes on both axles, and I've got a lot experience pulling heavy loads (drove big rigs, tandem dumps with tag-alongs, cement mixers, etc as a kid).

The E rated tires are actually $8 cheaper per tire, so it's not a cost thing, I'm just wondering how much harsher the ride will be going with the E tire, and there's no way to guess at that. Thoughts?

Your truck is about the same as mine. Mine is a 2007 Tundra SR5 double cab 4x4 5.7 with the tow package, I have Michelin LTX A/T2 P275/65R18. I had considered going with the heavier tires but was told that they rode alot harder. One thing I have done is to add the Airlift 5000 airbags.Michelin LTX A/T 2 White Letters&partnum=765TR8LTXAT2OWL&tab=Specs

 

[GManBart]

Don't forget the weight of the trailer. I got a 14K GN, but can only haul about 9K. It has a metal deck and weighs 5K, empty on the scales at the co-op.

Absolutely. The one 12k I'm looking at weighs 3,100 empty, and I need to call to get an empty weight on the other (also 12k). That would give me 7,000lbs worth of payload, without exceeding the truck's specified limit. With loader and bucket/forks, my tractor is at most 5,500lbs. That woud leave plenty available for a counterweight, and an implement, or two implements.