paint job - tips & tricks for beginners

[wwwfarmer]

Hello everyone!

I am getting ready to do my first paint job on a tractor implement I made. I watched a few videos and the process looks straightforward, but I feel like that there is more to it. I wonder if you have any tips or tricks on for example, which grit size to use for sanding and polishing before applying paint, or which paint (type) worked well for you and which didn't?

Thank you for your answers.

 

[workinonit]

Surface prep is everything. I prep mine, wipe it with cleaner and finisher, prime with epoxy primer and paint with single stage. After all, it is a tractor implement.

 

[Scar0B2150]

It depends on the look you want. Also what the project is/ will be used for.

When I stripped, reworked, and repainted my old trailer, I used a Rodda paint 74904(Clear gloss base) " Maintenance paint". It is a brush on self-priming gloss enamel, in the blue color I liked. They can mix the paint in many colors.
Being an enamel paint, the brush lines faded away into the paint. It looks to have been sprayed on. The brush on enamel leaves a heavy coat and it is as tough as nails once cured out. But it will take several days to cure since it goes on so thick.(It is always damp and not so warm here in the P.N.W.)
The trailer was old and very pitted in places. However the new steel I added for the deck support, and the ones to hold in the deck boards, plus the new rear bumper, have held up just as well as the paint on the old steel. Which was mostly stripped down to steel, then cleaned with de-greaser(lots of Acetone)

The first Pic below was taken just after I had added the new cross beams(every other one). Prior to that there were 2x4s in there. Also the deck board boarders.
The second Pic is the final product after I fabricated the new bumper, fabricated the sides, and put the deck boards in. I did not repaint the fenders since they are Galvanized and I have yet to find a paint that will stick to it.

This trailer was a free camper I converted. It is 5'x12' inside..

Anyway, I LOVE the paint! It is now 5 years young and holding up very well!

 

[sixdogs]

I only use OEM paint and have done a lot oof posts on this if you need more info or picks. OEM paint is usually high quality acrylic enamel that is sold at a great price. OEM's want their equipment to look nice and this sure helps. Too many aftermarket paints look nice at first but the lack of quality is apparent after a while in the sun and weather.

Some equipment, such as a drag harrow, may not warrant anything good but even that benefits from quality paint. I've painted a lot of equipment over the years and know that people will pay more for quality paint.

Second, the best lo-buck sprayer around is the $40 one from Harbor Freight.

 

[Sberry]

No one really fusses over perfection walking by but the 1 thing sticks out is overspray. Mask off. If you are going to paint regular get a paper machine and 6 inch and 18 inch rolls. On tractors I font get it on the rubber, even a quick hit of 3/4 around the tie rod rubbers is noticeable.

 

[Sberry]

Those colors on that trailer above look good together. The blue is pretty. I like stock colors for equipment. If it came with it then thats what I like to use. As for paint,,, depends. If I am trying to get color fast will paint it with anything. If the cost is hi, the prep tedious, the service severe then it gets super paint, Industuial Imron or similar over epoxy primer. They last sooooooooooooooooooo much longer,,,, soooooooooo much better than old equipment enemal. The Dupont colors are perfect and I think better than the dealer stuff seems hit and miss.
I ended up with some left over but we got it at the right price and I do mostly use cheap common enamel now as its so much simpler and not so hazzardous and not part of expensive 2 part systems. Nothing beats the best to last but the other is so much user friendly.

 

[Sberry]

First 2 pics above are before/afters. I since added a couple simple shelves to the left of the cab, its cluttered stuff back full again but its not things I hadnt used since they got parked there and I recycled them in to direct use again at the same time. It was like getting a 30 sq ft addition for free in a couple hrs.
I stock enough stuff for most trades to get a head start on something without needing to blaze to the store. We even buy a little cheap paint on occasion in the common colors. Yellow, red, black and white. Green cause we use it. Paint is usually something I want now and fast , want it done before I leave and dont tell anyone but use quite a few sponge brushes and spray cans.
I see a house paint stuck in there,,, since been removed, ha

 

[Sberry]

How wide is that blue trailer? I am going to comment again that it looks really good and nice to see some color other than black. It just makes it look sharp.
Since this thread asked about tips,,,, a main one is a box of maroon Scotchbrite. I dont solvent wash or prepsol type thing but pressure wash first if there is any stuff, sand, sandblast, scrape or wire wheel even but then scuff last thing no matter what, its a habit and catches a lot and scuffs dirt, sand and lets it be air blown off, ready for paint.
Its a must after blasting,,, we ALWAYS scuff after, can feel the difference and the spikes are knocked down sand cleaned. Valleys hold primer but the spikes stick thru it. Scuff after flattens the tops and leaves a place for the paint to lay.

 

[Cargo pants]

Someone once said something like this- Don't do a skimpy job prepping for expensive paint, and don't do a thorough job prepping for crap paint.

 

[RalphVa]

I'd use the Rustoleum Rust Reformer as primer. It will react with any rust and turn the iron oxide to iron sulfide. I bought a Farmhand sprayer at TSC several years ago. Sprayed a Gravely rotary plow and then a JD soil ripper.

Years ago, I sprayed a whole Alfa Duetto with a tiny touchup sprayer. Took me forever to get the paint smooth because you cannot get very much on per stroke. For implements, you're not going to be concerned about a really smooth job like on a car though.