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HawkinsHollow
Veteran Member
I purposely did not wear my glasses yesterday for that very reason.
Painting a House Exterior
- Thread starter HawkinsHollow
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I worked as a coatings Rep for SW for 20 years, you can do this! Not sure about neighboring houses, but atomized paint droplets can drift for an amazing distance. Latex/Acrylics not as much as oil based products. Cover or move cars and equipment and gauge the wind like a pilot> too windy to fly = too windy to paint. Don't cheap out on spray tips, HF are crap - use Graco or Titan. Practice on a piece of cardboard to set pressure , too much = bounceback, too little = incomplete atomization / splatters. Tips wear out pretty quick , have extras, they start " fingering" ( looks like lines at either side of pattern ) when worn.
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So, we built a new home 2-3 years ago and I convinced the builder to let me paint it. Bought a sprayer, did the prep and it actually worked out well.
Two lessons:
- with a sprayer your paint requirements will be 50% higher at least
- soffits/trim: paint the walls first (2-coats); then do the soffits and trim. If spraying the soffit, use pre-taped 3-5’ drop down covers to protect the newly painted walls and windows.
Enjoy
Two lessons:
- with a sprayer your paint requirements will be 50% higher at least
- soffits/trim: paint the walls first (2-coats); then do the soffits and trim. If spraying the soffit, use pre-taped 3-5’ drop down covers to protect the newly painted walls and windows.
Enjoy
Windblown
Bronze Member
Personally I'd never use a sprayer to paint the exterior my own house. Brush or at a minimum roll and tip.
As with any painting the surface prep is absolutely everything. Too smooth, too rough, too wet, or too dirty, or too rotted will all negatively impact the final result. Don't underestimate how long it takes things to dry after pressure washing... The only one that won't hurt adhesion is too rough. Take the time to do it right and spend the next several years admiring how great it looks.
Was getting close to done in this pic... LOL.
As with any painting the surface prep is absolutely everything. Too smooth, too rough, too wet, or too dirty, or too rotted will all negatively impact the final result. Don't underestimate how long it takes things to dry after pressure washing... The only one that won't hurt adhesion is too rough. Take the time to do it right and spend the next several years admiring how great it looks.
Was getting close to done in this pic... LOL.
charlessenf
Gold Member
These are results for drop cloths
Jaygyver
Silver Member
Had to redo the siding a few years ago on our 1800 sqft 2 story house with Hardy Plank. Living in the PNW you have to look ahead for weather and decided to just bite the bullet and get the Harbor Freight bulk sprayer. It was going to be a one time use so no sense getting anything too expensive. You may even look in to renting one? Still working out of town at the time so didn't have much time and having to keep an eye on the forecast made my schedule. I live on 5 acres so not a big issue for wind drift on the neighbors cars.
The wife did most of the masking on the windows and what not and it worked out great. I adjusted the spray down to the least amount of overspray and more for coverage. I borrowed the neighbors scaffolding and that helped immensely. I did have to strap down a 6' ladder on top of it to get to the higher spot once but got-er done.
As been mentioned Acrylic paint is somewhat abrasive but I didn't have to change tips on mine. Also mask or drop cloth EVERYTHING you don't want overspray on. Even the ground, sidewalk, plants, gutters, soffet vents, etc.
5 or 6 years after painting the house and the sidewalk to the house still has the overspray I thought would just fade after a year or so,,,, uh, nope......
The wife did most of the masking on the windows and what not and it worked out great. I adjusted the spray down to the least amount of overspray and more for coverage. I borrowed the neighbors scaffolding and that helped immensely. I did have to strap down a 6' ladder on top of it to get to the higher spot once but got-er done.
As been mentioned Acrylic paint is somewhat abrasive but I didn't have to change tips on mine. Also mask or drop cloth EVERYTHING you don't want overspray on. Even the ground, sidewalk, plants, gutters, soffet vents, etc.
5 or 6 years after painting the house and the sidewalk to the house still has the overspray I thought would just fade after a year or so,,,, uh, nope......
Bob435
New member
My first time staining my cedar siding house was using Woodguard stain and applying it with a backpack sprayer on a ladders. With stain need to back brush the stain into wood and crevices.
Over the years have been refining the process. Current method now using scaffolding. Staining every 3-6 years.
* Use a plastic sheeting/tape dispenser to tape off the window/doors
* Repair any damage wood
* Prep wood using orbital sander and stiff brush.
* Use foam gun to apply sprayed bleach/dish soap for 15-20 minutes then brush scrub.
* Use pressure washer to light spray using low pressure - wide angle tip to rinse soap and debris off
* Allow at least two full sun day to dry out.
* Use Big Stretch chalk after dried out - Wait at least a day or two for chalk to skin over.
* Using Cabot Australian Timber Oil 'Honey Teak' oil based stain sold in 5 gallon every 4-6 years.
Use HF airless sprayer with Graco tips to get the stain onto siding then back brush it in. Do a second coat if needed.
Most of the time is in the prep. The stain application goes very fast.
Over the years have been refining the process. Current method now using scaffolding. Staining every 3-6 years.
* Use a plastic sheeting/tape dispenser to tape off the window/doors
* Repair any damage wood
* Prep wood using orbital sander and stiff brush.
* Use foam gun to apply sprayed bleach/dish soap for 15-20 minutes then brush scrub.
* Use pressure washer to light spray using low pressure - wide angle tip to rinse soap and debris off
* Allow at least two full sun day to dry out.
* Use Big Stretch chalk after dried out - Wait at least a day or two for chalk to skin over.
* Using Cabot Australian Timber Oil 'Honey Teak' oil based stain sold in 5 gallon every 4-6 years.
Use HF airless sprayer with Graco tips to get the stain onto siding then back brush it in. Do a second coat if needed.
Most of the time is in the prep. The stain application goes very fast.
OP
HawkinsHollow
Veteran Member
Well I decided not to spray, too much prep and I was scared about overspray. I used 1 piece of plastic for the last 2 days of painting, didn't mask a darn thing. 2 of us rolled and brushed 2 sided of the house, 2 coats in 2 days and IT LOOKS GORGEOUS!!
BackRoad
Veteran Member
I know there's more errors than just that one! You're not looking hard enough!
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
That's the nice thing about using a brush. No taping!!!!
WinterDeere
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Not sure if it's been mentioned, I skipped some pages in the middle, but a common method for making this a more manageable "DIY" chore is to break up the painting (or re-painting) to a little each year.
With our common old traditional 2-story center-hall colonials, this is most often done by painting one side of the house each year. This creates a 4-year cycle, or more often 5 - 6 years by the time you spend the odd years on an outbuilding or odd trim details.
My present carriage barn is sided in Cedar, and I just pay someone to paint the two sides that get beat by the sun every 6 years, or thereabouts. The shady side has been holding strong 10 years now, and no signs of peeling yet. I think his standard rate is around $650/day in our somewhat high rent corner of the world, but I pay less due to "old friend" discount. He always scrapes then sands all surfaces, yes even the entire side of a barn, before painting. Not sanding thru the old finish, except where it's peeling badly, but to remove any dirt or gloss.
My parents owned a house all sided in painted Mahogany, and used to have to get that house repainted every 4 - 5 years. They'd usually remove the wood shutters and do them DIY, while paying a pro to paint the siding and window exteriors.
With our common old traditional 2-story center-hall colonials, this is most often done by painting one side of the house each year. This creates a 4-year cycle, or more often 5 - 6 years by the time you spend the odd years on an outbuilding or odd trim details.
My present carriage barn is sided in Cedar, and I just pay someone to paint the two sides that get beat by the sun every 6 years, or thereabouts. The shady side has been holding strong 10 years now, and no signs of peeling yet. I think his standard rate is around $650/day in our somewhat high rent corner of the world, but I pay less due to "old friend" discount. He always scrapes then sands all surfaces, yes even the entire side of a barn, before painting. Not sanding thru the old finish, except where it's peeling badly, but to remove any dirt or gloss.
My parents owned a house all sided in painted Mahogany, and used to have to get that house repainted every 4 - 5 years. They'd usually remove the wood shutters and do them DIY, while paying a pro to paint the siding and window exteriors.
gstrom99
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After all this, WE NEED PICS!
OP
HawkinsHollow
Veteran Member
Patience Grasshoppa!
MossRoad
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When you can grab the paintbrush from my hand, it will be time for you to leave.
