Painting/Staining/Whitewash Pressure treated fence

SmoothSippin · Aug 9, 2006

Ok, my fencing project is rolling right along (I promise to post some pics soon). I have a question you all might be able to help with. I am considering making my pressure treated fence white. Hence I need to paint/ stain it. The rails are all ACQ and the posts CCA (ground contact) and at best been up a month.

1) Can I stain it. If not , how long must this stuff dry.
2) A friend recommended whitewashing it. What the **** does that mean (something about lime)? Do I still need to wait for a dry lumber situation.
3) Will the stain/whitewash stick to my vinyl coated weld wire (you might see where I am going with this. The wire is up and I am thinking of spraying it). If not I am thinking I could pressure wash off overspray/slop.

Thanks all.

gabby · Aug 9, 2006

White painted wood fences are high maintenance!! Paint doesn't bond very well with treated lumber. If you do paint it, make sure it's bone dry when you do it. Pick a brand of paint and follow their directions, which most likely will include the use of a primer.

Don't even consider whitewash.
gabby

Sean_Pecor · Aug 10, 2006

gabby said:
White painted wood fences are high maintenance!! Paint doesn't bond very well with treated lumber. If you do paint it, make sure it's bone dry when you do it. Pick a brand of paint and follow their directions, which most likely will include the use of a primer.

Don't even consider whitewash.
gabby

Yes avoid whitewash. If you paint then stick with an oil/alkyl. I've had great success with oil based paints on pressure treated lumber provided the lumber is dry. Just wipe off overspray with a rag soaked in mineral spirits.

Sean

CharlieTR · Aug 10, 2006

Most of the stain instructions I have read advise to drop water or stain on the wood, if it beads up (like water on waxed car) it is too wet. Once the wood is right the water/stain will soak in, with no beading. Not sure but I think paint would use same rule.

SmoothSippin · Aug 14, 2006

Thanks all.
I decided that solid stain would be what I do. After a discussion with two people (Sherwin Williams and a guy from Porter), they both basically said there is no product on the market that will stick to fresh pressure treated lumber. It should be aged a year and tested with water as another posted here. I thought I would share that information. Also, I wanted to add that guy at a Lowe's paint counter (about 20 years old) said I stain it with a Olympic stain. I was skeptical and called the people above and another Lowe's. I got the year wait answer from all. I guess the young man needs some time to learn... and how to pull up his pants.

gabby · Aug 15, 2006

SmoothSippin said:
Thanks all.
I decided that solid stain would be what I do. After a discussion with two people (Sherwin Williams and a guy from Porter), they both basically said there is no product on the market that will stick to fresh pressure treated lumber. It should be aged a year and tested with water as another posted here. I thought I would share that information. Also, I wanted to add that guy at a Lowe's paint counter (about 20 years old) said I stain it with a Olympic stain. I was skeptical and called the people above and another Lowe's. I got the year wait answer from all. I guess the young man needs some time to learn... and how to pull up his pants.

You don't need to wait an arbitrary period such as a year. You just need to wait long enough for it to get thoroughly dry, which could be anywhere from a couple of weeks (if it's really hot and dry weather) to a couple of seasons, and be dang sure it's a dry day when you paint it.
gabby

Makers_Mark · Aug 16, 2006

I have been intalling PT wood fencing on my place for the past 7 years. Instead of white we went with black. Personal taste. We have been using foundation sealer, which is a tar like substance that goes on thick but dries. I have also cut it down with gasoline to thin it out. This acts more like a stain but fades in the sun faster. For deep black, don't thin it. I guess it's similar to using kreosote as they did in the old days...which is banned now. The real difference is in the price. 5 gallons of paint or stain is about $75. 5 gallons of foundation sealer was $12 up to a few months ago. It has now doubled to $24...I guess because of the price of oil these days (it's an oil based product). Only draw back is it comes in one color...black. I don't wait for any drying time of the wood. I have even been caught in rain while painting. Hope this helps.

Makers_Mark · Aug 16, 2006

A few pics to give you an idea...

SmoothSippin · Aug 17, 2006

Thanks! that look great. I may try this.
BTW, nice name. While I'll sip some Makers, I still prefer Jack. Then again if they changing the proof.....

Lloyd_E · Aug 29, 2006

Dido Makers Mark.

Actually I got the idea from SoundGuy. I am fencing approx 3-4 acres with 3 rails plus cap rail. We are using acyrlic based driveway sealer. 5 Gallons for $17-$20. I brush or roll it on. We have used different manufacturers - some are better than others - blackknight or bakers. I went with acrylic after checking whmis sheets for the coaltar - too toxic for me.

Under the cap rail I paint the top of posts with roofing tar and add a layer of tar paper on top of post prior to laying cap rail. We also painted all the posts with coppertwo preservative - relatively safe stuff. We allowed the copper treated posts to dry prior to painting.

Hope this helps.

Lloyd