Can anyone tell me what primer I should use when I take the paint off to bare metal to keep it from rusting? I'm considering using spray cans on a mid mount mower, any suggestions? If it would make that much difference I could use a wagner. I've seen some enamal paints at tractor supply for use on agricultural equipment, just curious what people are using and recommending. I would like to start on the frame of the 955 in the spring.
painting
- Thread starter Bjohn
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mark777
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Bjohn,
The paint that TSC sells in manufactured by Valspar, a long time marine and specialty company. The paint is absolutely the best I have found for the price. If you use the hardener with the primer (and the paint of course) you should be very impressed.
As with any paint refinishing project, the preparation will make or break the final outcome. The more time spent getting the metal straight and clean the better your top coat will be.
I use 1/2 pint of hardener to 1 quart of primer with no reducer (Naptha) and paint @ 55 degrees or higher. I let the primer cure for 48 hours and scuff lightly (maroon Scotchbrite) and top coat with the color.
I have used everything out there, PPG, Dupont, Sikkens, Glasruit, etc. and for the price difference there is nothing it's equal. As a test, I cleaned up a Yanmar tiller, primed with the catalyzed red oxide and immediately applied the top coat....no sanding in between. I waited a few days for all to cure and pressure washed, and I mean a big 6 HP Honda pressure washer and I could not get the paint to loosen or come off. Even the overspray underneath by the tiller tines would barely come off.
I don't see why your Wagner power painter wouldn't work...just make sure you clean up immediately with Naptha or you will be tossing your equipment in the trash. A good respirator and adequate ventilation is a MUST.
Good luck, Mark
The paint that TSC sells in manufactured by Valspar, a long time marine and specialty company. The paint is absolutely the best I have found for the price. If you use the hardener with the primer (and the paint of course) you should be very impressed.
As with any paint refinishing project, the preparation will make or break the final outcome. The more time spent getting the metal straight and clean the better your top coat will be.
I use 1/2 pint of hardener to 1 quart of primer with no reducer (Naptha) and paint @ 55 degrees or higher. I let the primer cure for 48 hours and scuff lightly (maroon Scotchbrite) and top coat with the color.
I have used everything out there, PPG, Dupont, Sikkens, Glasruit, etc. and for the price difference there is nothing it's equal. As a test, I cleaned up a Yanmar tiller, primed with the catalyzed red oxide and immediately applied the top coat....no sanding in between. I waited a few days for all to cure and pressure washed, and I mean a big 6 HP Honda pressure washer and I could not get the paint to loosen or come off. Even the overspray underneath by the tiller tines would barely come off.
I don't see why your Wagner power painter wouldn't work...just make sure you clean up immediately with Naptha or you will be tossing your equipment in the trash. A good respirator and adequate ventilation is a MUST.
Good luck, Mark
Soundguy
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I second that.
I've used BPS paints from TSC to paint all my N's and other flavor tractors.
The paint with correct hardner and thinner ( naptha for spray, MS or brush/roller) will give as good a result as your metal prep will allow. The hardner gives a great 'glass' appearance, even on cast iron.
I had never used a paint gun before.. and got a cheap gun and compressor from harbor freight.. bought my paint, primer, thinner and hardner from TSC.. went solely by the directions onthe cans, and came out with a superior finish that could not be touched by rattlecans.
Soundguy
I've used BPS paints from TSC to paint all my N's and other flavor tractors.
The paint with correct hardner and thinner ( naptha for spray, MS or brush/roller) will give as good a result as your metal prep will allow. The hardner gives a great 'glass' appearance, even on cast iron.
I had never used a paint gun before.. and got a cheap gun and compressor from harbor freight.. bought my paint, primer, thinner and hardner from TSC.. went solely by the directions onthe cans, and came out with a superior finish that could not be touched by rattlecans.
Soundguy
kentuckydiesel
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I've used some BPS rattlecans from tractor supplu and I was very disappointed. Coverage was horrible, paint was too runny, just not happy. The paint for use in spray guns is better? Thanks, Phillip
mark777
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Phillip,
Not wanting to answer for Soundguy as His technique and experiences may differ considerably. Just want to add that TSC rattle cans leave allot to be desired. I found that IF I put them on my shaker for about 2 minutes...the results, coverage, color match and uniformity are much better. You have to keep in mind that the BPS paints are oil base and the old tricks and tips apply....ambient temperature, ventilation and flash coats for drying time.
I must admit though....the BPS paints and hardener, off the shelf, continue to impress me. Especially the durability when properly applied.
Must agree with Soundguy about paint guns and compressor. I have thousands invested in equipment (air compressors and SATA HVLP spray guns) and the absolute minimum $$ invested achieve the same desired results.
Regards, Mark
Not wanting to answer for Soundguy as His technique and experiences may differ considerably. Just want to add that TSC rattle cans leave allot to be desired. I found that IF I put them on my shaker for about 2 minutes...the results, coverage, color match and uniformity are much better. You have to keep in mind that the BPS paints are oil base and the old tricks and tips apply....ambient temperature, ventilation and flash coats for drying time.
I must admit though....the BPS paints and hardener, off the shelf, continue to impress me. Especially the durability when properly applied.
Must agree with Soundguy about paint guns and compressor. I have thousands invested in equipment (air compressors and SATA HVLP spray guns) and the absolute minimum $$ invested achieve the same desired results.
Regards, Mark
Soundguy
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Not wanting to answer for Soundguy as His technique and experiences may differ considerably. Just want to add that TSC rattle cans leave allot to be desired )</font>
I agree. The rattle can coverage and 'look' is not as good as mixing and spraying.
Soundguy
I agree. The rattle can coverage and 'look' is not as good as mixing and spraying.
Soundguy
twinstackram
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In agree with you guys with the air gun and air compressor is the only way to go,we keep a couple of the rattle cans around for touch ups around the engines and the hitches before they go to the shows.
g42guy
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I already have a compressor. What is a good (cheap) gun? I do have a Harbor Freight in town I can go to. What else would I need besides the gun?
Guy
Guy
Soundguy
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I bought my gun for either 9.99 or 14.99 from harbor freight. I think it was regularly 19.99. You will also need an air regulator and filter. One option is to get the harbor freight regulator/filter/oiler, and NEVER put oil in it. This runs 29.99.. but is on sale for 19.99 often. That is option 1. ( these guns need 30-40 psi air regulation.
The other option is to hit Tractor supply.. and they have a small 'fist' sized simple air regulator with a dial and a gauge for about 9 bucks. Then get an inline disposable air filter from the same isle for about 5 bucks. These are campbell hausfield products. Just change the air filter every time you paint.
The regs are easy to adjust. Put inline with the gun, and squeze the trigger on the gun.. now turn the dial up till the air is between 30and 40 ( if your gun uses that pressure..) etc.
You will also, of course.. need a second piece of hose... these run 9.99 or 4.99 at harbor freight as well.
Get the gun with the 'bottom' cup.. not the upper gravity feed hopper..
Clean it well, after every use.
Soundguy
The other option is to hit Tractor supply.. and they have a small 'fist' sized simple air regulator with a dial and a gauge for about 9 bucks. Then get an inline disposable air filter from the same isle for about 5 bucks. These are campbell hausfield products. Just change the air filter every time you paint.
The regs are easy to adjust. Put inline with the gun, and squeze the trigger on the gun.. now turn the dial up till the air is between 30and 40 ( if your gun uses that pressure..) etc.
You will also, of course.. need a second piece of hose... these run 9.99 or 4.99 at harbor freight as well.
Get the gun with the 'bottom' cup.. not the upper gravity feed hopper..
Clean it well, after every use.
Soundguy
1savoy
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Bjohn,
I have not used the paints from TSC. I have used the paint from the previous store, Central Tractor. I used their paint, but they did not have the hardener. The paint dried very slow and faded very bad when left sitting out in the sun. So I guess I am saying I would definitely use the hardener. Another option is to buy the paint from the dealer. I have used paint from John Deere, New Holland, and CaseIH. All these paints work very well and cover great. The paint is a little more money than TSC, but not very much. I have also sprayed with Dupont, RM, and PPG before and love the results, but I do not think it is worth the money for the average tractor. I think you will get closest to the actual original color using paint from the dealer. Make sure whatever you decide to use, that you use the manufacturers brand reducers, thinners or catalysts. Good luck with your project.
Russ
I have not used the paints from TSC. I have used the paint from the previous store, Central Tractor. I used their paint, but they did not have the hardener. The paint dried very slow and faded very bad when left sitting out in the sun. So I guess I am saying I would definitely use the hardener. Another option is to buy the paint from the dealer. I have used paint from John Deere, New Holland, and CaseIH. All these paints work very well and cover great. The paint is a little more money than TSC, but not very much. I have also sprayed with Dupont, RM, and PPG before and love the results, but I do not think it is worth the money for the average tractor. I think you will get closest to the actual original color using paint from the dealer. Make sure whatever you decide to use, that you use the manufacturers brand reducers, thinners or catalysts. Good luck with your project.
Russ
