Paints-Primers-Opinions??

   / Paints-Primers-Opinions?? #1  

mark777

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I've checked the archives and found several conversations that generalize paint, primers, tricks and tips (and oh..yeah guns too) but nothing about individuals with spectacular results (or failures).

I'm asking for purely selfish reasons too. I touted the BPS paint line for a long while but I'm watching the top coats disintegrate after 18 months....and some complete failures at 3 years depending on exposure to the elements. I'm very interested in your opinions.

Thanks, Mark
 
   / Paints-Primers-Opinions?? #2  
Imron paint by DuPont
epoxy primer from DuPont

Jim:)
 
   / Paints-Primers-Opinions??
  • Thread Starter
#3  
MrJimi said:
Imron paint by DuPont
epoxy primer from DuPont

Jim:)

Have to say those older reliables are still near the top of my list. Did you paint your tractor with it?
 
   / Paints-Primers-Opinions?? #5  
How about primers? Applied properly, DP 74 is about as good as someone in a backyard is going to get, but its a lot of work to prep, mix, apply and it does not keep. There are times, like today when I'm rebuilding an old cast iron carburator, that I'd like to prime it without the hassle of DP 74. Anybody got any ideas on something almost as good in a can?
Bill
 
   / Paints-Primers-Opinions??
  • Thread Starter
#6  
kennyd said:
There was just a very long thread on this very subject:
[URL[/URL]


Kennyd, You're absolutely right there is an ongoing thread related but it's so far off track from the original posters intent that I felt some of us were stealing his thunder. Since I paint often and have accumulated mostly a single brand of chemicals, I'm attempting to broaden my own perspectives from other members input...regarding what's working (or not) from them.

Mark

Bill, I think we're in the same boat! I have used Dupont's DTM epoxy primer and it worked well...but you must use an intermediate coat of any of their primers, which is hardly more economical and adds an additional step before top-coating with color. On the plus side the DTM is isocyanite free, but every two component system applied to that base is not....so, in the long run, you've added labor, costly materials and, IMHO save nothing. Now I'm back to the DP epoxies and I agree they're expensive, require careful measuring, certainly hazardous without the proper PPE (personal protective equipment) and have a very short shelf life once opened. But, once applied correctly, it is just about bullet proof and I haven't found anything better......Yet.

Mark
 
   / Paints-Primers-Opinions?? #7  
I personally prefer PPG products and like the way their catalogs are laid out with ratios and applications.I agree stick with one brand for sealers,surfacers & topcoats.All I have ever used are 2 part acrylics.Does anyone know how to apply Basecoat/Clearcoat?I would like to try it but it is too expensive to experiment with.
 
   / Paints-Primers-Opinions?? #8  
DP90LF epoxy. Nothing better (IMHO). Fast activation time. Fast dry time to top coat.
DBC base coat with 2020 clear is a good combo.
I have used the Imrom 5000 single stage on a trailer. Exceptionally durrable but very expensive (got mine free when I worked at Kenworth dealer body shop).
DCC is as good as any for single stage.
I used the bottom of the barrel PPG base coat (Nova?) with their bottom of the barrel clear on my Woods mower, and it has held up as good as any . I always use DP primer. I sand blast everything also.
Not a big believer in the Dupont self etching primer. I like the epoxy primers.
 
   / Paints-Primers-Opinions??
  • Thread Starter
#9  
bamatoolmaker said:
I personally prefer PPG products and like the way their catalogs are laid out with ratios and applications.I agree stick with one brand for sealers,surfacers & topcoats.All I have ever used are 2 part acrylics.Does anyone know how to apply Basecoat/Clearcoat?I would like to try it but it is too expensive to experiment with.

Bama,

the BC/CC PPG systems (DBU & DBC) are fairly easy to apply. Even less complicated with the acrylics you're used to. It is applied in the same steps as most all paints...a tack coat, hide or cover coat and final coat. Within minutes of your final coat all gloss disapears and the finish is flat with zero reflectivity. The greatest advantage using this paint system (over any other paints on the market) is the last stage provides a window of opportunity to repair mottle from metallics, airborne contaminents can be removed and ANY suspect undesirables can be addressed before the clear is applied...and once the topcoat of clear goes on the finishes exceed idustry standards.

You're right though...the stuff aint cheap! You can buy it in smaller amounts and the system is excellent for show (like motorcycle tanks, fenders etc.) and is extremely durable.
 
   / Paints-Primers-Opinions?? #10  
like others said, imron can hardly be beat, (If you acn find anyone still carying it. :( ) Loved the stuff back in the day when it was brand new on the market I DID A LOT OF PAITING with it, 9and the PPE too) but lately most of my painting was inexpensive indutraial paints. Infact the last few items I've painted were trailers, one dump trailer and my on-road 18' trailer, black & blue enamels bought at TSC with their harners & thinners. no primer, BUT I used industrial Phosphate Cleaner/ Etcher Phospahter. (makes the metal BLUE OIL SLICK looking after applied correctly. this stuff is great. My dump trailer has seen a hard life 4~5 years old now outside all time used for heavy creek run gravel moved 100's of tons of the stuff and dirt wood ect. the innner bed shows some rust now but that I expected. the rust it has is mostly surface rust left from larger rocks scraping as they slid out. the car trailer looks great and so far only a year old so OK still.

I started painting cars back when I was a teenager first one was painted when I was 14, using dupont centari paints mostly. then up to the imrons never liked any ot the laqurees too much buffing. typically on anything used outside like trailers hardened enamels 1 coat systems, powder paints for smaller things that can be baked in an oven 400 degrees though. (worked in a industrail setting fab shop making lots of stuff powder coating and painting as well as fabing & wiring all around do it place. loved it...

Mark M
 

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