pallet fork trailer storage

hrcarver · Dec 12, 2011

Anyone have any of those nifty pallet fork storage set-ups... you know, where the forks mount on the side of the trailer, but under the deck?

I need some specs to copy.:thumbsup: Looks like some tubing (6x4 or maybe 5x3"?) would work, but I dont want to screw it up.

wolfpack2 · Dec 13, 2011

Some good information can be found in this thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/195698-fork-pockets.html

Mine are 8" x 3" OD with a 1/4" wall.

hrcarver · Dec 13, 2011

Thanks! Seems like a good size to allow easy mounting.

Do you happen to know if you need the full 48"? I dont think 8x3 tubing is cheap.

Whitnel · Dec 13, 2011

That is a pretty slick idea. Never seen it before and sure would not have thought to do that.

Bob77064 · Dec 13, 2011

wolfpack2, that's a great way to carry the pallet forks.

dstig1 · Dec 14, 2011

Hey you beat me to linking to my own thread!

I never did do it. Too many other things and I have ended up just leaving them at the land so far. I haven't had a bunch of urgent situations where i wish I had the forks on the trailer so far. Probably never will, given my uses.

You certainly don't need super long tubes. Just make sure you have them long enough to weld to a couple cross members, and make sure you can do overhead welding first...

Part of that will depend on how you set things up. You don't need anything larger than probably 5x2, but they better be right on your fork dimensions and your aim better be good...REAL good. If you strap them down, they will bounce less and you may be in a better place with shorter tubes. You don't want the ends under the trailer catching on anything, for example, if they bounce around a lot.

davygp38 · Dec 14, 2011

I like that set up. Gets me thinking about other storage ideas for my trailer..

JB4310 · Dec 14, 2011

I've wanted to do this too, very convenient, I was thinking go right across so either side could be used.

I think channel iron would work, but just have to be careful not damaging the underside of the trailer when inserting the forks.

My trailer is 20 feet long so it has not been a necessity yet, since I have enough room.

JB

hrcarver · Dec 14, 2011

I took a closer look today, I will also need one more peice of 6" channel under my braces (to mount the 8x3 tubing), or I could run the 8x3 tubing the entire width of the deck (83"). I might go that route as it would let you load the forks from either side.

Here's a pic to show what I mean. See the extra width of 6" channel on the front half of the trailer? That is only on the outside, nothing to weld to in the middle of the trailer.

Diamondpilot · Dec 14, 2011

Is this going to cause any issues with ground clearance? I know we are only talking a few inches but something to think about. The closer you can get it to the front axle the less likely it would be to drag.

Chris

hrcarver · Dec 14, 2011

Thought about that too. I dont think it will be a problem. I will get close to the fenders as I think I can load them.

wolfpack2 · Dec 14, 2011

Mine run the full width so I can load the forks from either side. So far I have not had any ground clearance issues, but I do avoid any sharp break-over areas when ever possible.

Diamondpilot · Dec 14, 2011

That is a nice trailer WolfPack2.

Chris

Sterff · Dec 15, 2011

wolfpack2 said:
Mine run the full width so I can load the forks from either side. So far I have not had any ground clearance issues, but I do avoid any sharp break-over areas when ever possible.

You should put your chains around the entire stake pocket so your pulling on both welds instead of one.

JB4310 · Dec 15, 2011

Sterff said:
You should put your chains around the entire stake pocket so your pulling on both welds instead of one.

Welcome to TBN, Nothing wrong with that, when I use a hook in the pocket, it's just on one side. The rail is welded to the pocket too, so it is all like one solid structure.

I use ratchet binders on all four corners though, not sure, but I don't think it's required for this size CUT, it's just easier for me.

JB.

wolfpack2 · Dec 16, 2011

Sterff said:
You should put your chains around the entire stake pocket so your pulling on both welds instead of one.

I have always wondered if there is a "correct way" to use them. I have always seen the chain dropped through and brought back up. Sometime the are hooked to the top of the pocket, and sometimes they are hooked back to the chain. My previous trailer didn't have a rub rail, so I got in the habit of going through the pocket. I will have to try going around the pocket next time, although I don't use them that often now. I updated all my chains with the new trailer and now I use 4 shorter 5/16" chains and hook to the d-rings. The 3/8" chain grab hook wouldn't fit through the d-rings.

JB4310 said:
Welcome to TBN, Nothing wrong with that, when I use a hook in the pocket, it's just on one side. The rail is welded to the pocket too, so it is all like one solid structure.

I use ratchet binders on all four corners though, not sure, but I don't think it's required for this size CUT, it's just easier for me.

JB.

I now do the same although the tractor is less than 10,000 lbs so it is not required. These pictures were taken the first time I used the trailer (it was picked up that morning) and the first time I hauled the tractor with the backhoe. My chain setup was used with my previous trailer that was to short to safely handle the combination. I ordered the trailer with 16 d-rings but found out the 3/8" chain had too big of a grab hook to fit through them. I had to step down to 5/16", so I decided it would be safest to just setup the entire system to used 4 chains and binders. I have always believed that there is no such thing as overkill when it comes to securing cargo.