Parking Brake Upgrade on 3000/4000 cabs
- Thread starter Red Horse
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Red Horse
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JD110/Brimstone,
Well one frustrated guy here- I spent two hours this afternoon and managed to get the two brake rods disengaged and the bolts loose that hold the pawl mounting bracket to the cab. I then came to the realization that this was more than I bargained for.
After a cup of coffee I read first thing in instructions that come with kit...."Some components at the rear of the engine on right side such as hoses or wires may need to be unclamped or moved out of way temporarily. In particular on large chassis, hydraulic hoses or tubes (A) may need to be loosened and shifted." Went back and looked at that. I would say that is a GIVEN not a maybe. And "moving" is not an option as I see it because they end up being hard piped with no where to move. these are the PS hoses coming from the valve body on the steering col. so it looks like best bet is to break them at the connection where they transition to hard piping. Looks like you could then possible get your hand in there.
Am I making sense here?
Appreciate any comments you might have.
"Frustrated in Bolton"!!
Well one frustrated guy here- I spent two hours this afternoon and managed to get the two brake rods disengaged and the bolts loose that hold the pawl mounting bracket to the cab. I then came to the realization that this was more than I bargained for.
After a cup of coffee I read first thing in instructions that come with kit...."Some components at the rear of the engine on right side such as hoses or wires may need to be unclamped or moved out of way temporarily. In particular on large chassis, hydraulic hoses or tubes (A) may need to be loosened and shifted." Went back and looked at that. I would say that is a GIVEN not a maybe. And "moving" is not an option as I see it because they end up being hard piped with no where to move. these are the PS hoses coming from the valve body on the steering col. so it looks like best bet is to break them at the connection where they transition to hard piping. Looks like you could then possible get your hand in there.
Am I making sense here?
Appreciate any comments you might have.
"Frustrated in Bolton"!!
Brimstone10x
Silver Member
red horse the one I did was on a 3000 series . sounds like the 4000 is even more of a pain . looks like you may have to spill a little oil. good luck.
OP
Red Horse
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Well guys- 95% done- have to hook up brake rods in AM, adjust- Hints (such as they are) to follow.
OP
Red Horse
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Well boys, done. Worth the effort as you now have a real solid feel when you engage/disengage brake.
some thoughts/suggestions:
-No need to take loader off completely-just disengage from towers and back up a foot or so-leave hoses hooked up.
-ABSOLUTELY- break the two PS hoses closest to the firewall -see attached before and after pix. I just cut a cut hanger and wired the rubber end up and out of the way. I also took the AC hose (not sure what it is) and disconnected the clip that holds it to cab and tucked it out of way. I don't see how you can do this job unless you do this. Instructions should make this step mandatory.
-Toughest job is taking the two 1/2" bolts off that hold the pawl mounting bracket to the cab. You are reaching in from the left side of the tractor to the right and you will need a long extension. You also need someone to keep pressure on the two flat head bolts from the right side as once you break them loose, they are carriage bolts. I had a buddy holding a long flat blade screw driver against them keeping them tight in the square holes while I loosened. As for putting the nuts back on the new part, the only way you will do this (that I can see) is to use one of those long flexible "Nut holders" with the spring ends to grab the nuts and get them started. One of my kids gave me an inexpensive set a while back with the mirror on an extension handle, magnet on an extension handle and the "wire grabber" tool. I never opened the package until this job-saved my butt.
Attached is a picture of the kit contents. this is an incredible waste in my opinion as what you get in the new kit, comes out of the tractor in terms of the old components-just slightly different. I can't believe that they could not have come up with some sort of mod to use most of the existing hardware with just a new rod, but what do I know. Like I said earlier, as pricey as Deere parts are, this was an inexpensive kit (40 bucks) considering what you get.
Good luck. If I had to do it again, I would do it in half the time-practice makes perfect!
some thoughts/suggestions:
-No need to take loader off completely-just disengage from towers and back up a foot or so-leave hoses hooked up.
-ABSOLUTELY- break the two PS hoses closest to the firewall -see attached before and after pix. I just cut a cut hanger and wired the rubber end up and out of the way. I also took the AC hose (not sure what it is) and disconnected the clip that holds it to cab and tucked it out of way. I don't see how you can do this job unless you do this. Instructions should make this step mandatory.
-Toughest job is taking the two 1/2" bolts off that hold the pawl mounting bracket to the cab. You are reaching in from the left side of the tractor to the right and you will need a long extension. You also need someone to keep pressure on the two flat head bolts from the right side as once you break them loose, they are carriage bolts. I had a buddy holding a long flat blade screw driver against them keeping them tight in the square holes while I loosened. As for putting the nuts back on the new part, the only way you will do this (that I can see) is to use one of those long flexible "Nut holders" with the spring ends to grab the nuts and get them started. One of my kids gave me an inexpensive set a while back with the mirror on an extension handle, magnet on an extension handle and the "wire grabber" tool. I never opened the package until this job-saved my butt.
Attached is a picture of the kit contents. this is an incredible waste in my opinion as what you get in the new kit, comes out of the tractor in terms of the old components-just slightly different. I can't believe that they could not have come up with some sort of mod to use most of the existing hardware with just a new rod, but what do I know. Like I said earlier, as pricey as Deere parts are, this was an inexpensive kit (40 bucks) considering what you get.
Good luck. If I had to do it again, I would do it in half the time-practice makes perfect!
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sunnyside360
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Red Horse,
Good job and thanks for sharing your experience. I was already to take the leap and do it but decided to wait and see how involved it is. I'm going to hold off doing my 3720 cab tractor since it hasn't failed yet, but I would much prefer the new brake mechanism.
Good job and thanks for sharing your experience. I was already to take the leap and do it but decided to wait and see how involved it is. I'm going to hold off doing my 3720 cab tractor since it hasn't failed yet, but I would much prefer the new brake mechanism.
OP
Red Horse
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SS-No problem-if you've owned your machine since new and haven't had any yahoo's running it who might have put a bend in the cable you should be okay. But like I said, assuming a 3000 isn't that much different, in retrospect its not that difficult if you make yourself some room and get that "grabber" tool.
Glen Watkins
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Yahoo's being the key word here. Factory setup works fine if the operator understands how it works! A little pressure on the pedal and push the knob in. Sounds like the new improved lever setup is more Yahoo proof! :laughing:
