Pasture Renovation - Soil Sample... Done. Now What?

[kfvintx]

I have about 100 acres of pasture planted with coastal bermudagrass. My grandad always used the land for cattle operation but since his passing we have leased to others for past 12 years. Of course, what used to be 100 prime acres of grass is now overgrazed with little to no weed control or fertilizer. If you look at aerial view there are large patches where mesquite and cactus started growing which made the person cutting for hay start going around the problem area which only lead to problem area becoming larger over the years. As of last year we no longer lease to others and I have started to manage and hopefully get back to condition how I remember my grandfather kept it in. Of the 100 acres I probably have only about half that is still good grass that produces good hay as recent as last year. The remaining areas are large patches of either bare or clover or weeds mixed with cactus and mesquite. Pics included that you can kinda see bare or weedy areas versus areas of smooth, nice grass.

I am clearing the mesquite and cactus slowly and then using shredder to cut down what is left hoping with some care and fertilizer the areas can be brought back. I have been told a couple passes with a ripper of some sort could help as well. I only have a disc which I am hoping to set so discs are straight and not angled hoping this might produce similar results of opening up soil.

Now for the questions (hopefully a few still reading at this point ) --

Can using disc with them set straight instead of angled for tillage help in any way for some sort of aeration?

Soil sample shows N/P/K needed (no surprise) - seems to be no great concensus on time to apply each that I can find. In general I'm reading N in the spring but should this be before first cut or after? P&K in the fall? Anyone in north central TX area know good fertilizer source? Is this best done by spray or can granule be spread?

What can be done for bare or areas with minimal grass? It looks like coastal can only be sprigged which don't really have $$ for right now. Any other successful method for planting coastal? Am I decreasing value if I spread Tifton (I'm thinking Tifton 85 but open for discussion) seed to have coastal and Tifton mix of hay?

Any and all input/opinions/comments are welcomed and appreciated. I'm just starting this adventure and trying to learn/absorb everything I can. I'm finally at a point in my life to where I recognize what we have and remember the pride my grandad in the ranch and I'm trying to get it back in shape he would be proud of today. Lots of work but I can't wait.

Thanks. :thumbsup:

 

[leonz]

Nothing short of a sure stand grass seeder is going to help you with this and the cactus will have be killed with no mercy using a back hoe.

I would find out if you have neighbor with a sure stand seeder that is PTO driven to power the colters to dif furrroed for the sedd and then pack them back down rent one if possible

Your obviously going to need gypsum judging by the dead ground you have there too. If you can find a feed store that has mined gypsum rather than refined/chemically rendered gysum it will cost less per acre.

The other option is buy a good Brillion sure stand GRASS seeder for your tractor size if you can afford it as they are designed to either work in sod or plowed and disced land.

 

[Bigfoot62]

Running a disc over it will help some, but you're not going to get hardly any ground penetration with the blades set straight. You'll only "scratch the surface." (pun intended)
You need one of these:
Hay King Renovator

Before you spend a ton of $ on fertilizer, what is the pH of your soil? As Leonz pointed out, you probably need to lime it first. And, ground limestone can be used. That may be more economical in your area than gypsum. Balance the pH, then apply fertilize. Phosphorus and Potash can be applied anytime. They don't evaporate, and will only be depleted as you graze the grass or cut the hay. (hay operations will require more P and K replenishment than grazing) Nitrogen needs to be applied over the entire growing season, every 30-45 days. It does evaporate, so there's no use in putting it all out at once. For example, if your soil analysis recommends 500 lbs per acre, you can apply 200#, then 150# and 150#. Also, look at your Sulphur level. If it's low, you can apply Ammonium Sulfate instead of urea.
I could go on and on, but you really need to get your County Agent to go over the soil analysis with you, then a reputable fertilize dealer.

I would suggest that after you renovate, correct the pH and fertilize, that you simply wait and see if the Coastal will cover the bare spots on its own. In good soil conditions, Coastal bermudagrass is an aggressive and very fast-growing plant.

 

[blueriver]

I'd think you would want to sprigg the bare spots ... after you remove the mesquite and cactus ... put out the fertilizer per the soil sample.

I would subsoil the exsisting bermuda to open the ground, subsoil and disc the area that you remove the mesquite and cactus and then sprigg.

Granular works on the plant thru the root system and liguid works on the plant ... if your trying to rebuild the nutrients in the soil I'd go granular.

 

[blueriver]

Forgot to ask ... did the soil test require any lime?

 

[sweettractors]

We sell Hayking Pasture Renovators. We also sell a lot of these used renovators that do all the work in 1 pass. Here is a example below. Ken Sweet
Used Farnam 7 Ft Seeder and Renovator, WE CAN SHIP,CALL 1-866-528-3323-M-F | eBay

 

[bucktaker]

Ken,
Would a box blade with rippers set to lowestsetting work similar? Have a box blade , would like a renovator but only have 5 acres of pasture

 

[sweettractors]

Ken,
Would a box blade with rippers set to lowestsetting work similar? Have a box blade , would like a renovator but only have 5 acres of pasture

The box blade followed with a spin seed spreader, followed by a cultipacker would be great. Ken Sweet

 

[blueriver]

Ken,
Would a box blade with rippers set to lowestsetting work similar? Have a box blade , would like a renovator but only have 5 acres of pasture

I know you asked ken ... but, I tryed that and the problem I had was any sod lumps that came up accumulated in the box blade and I found myself plugged up. Thats why I went ahead and built a subsoiler... no box to catch things.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I know you asked ken ... but, I tryed that and the problem I had was any sod lumps that came up accumulated in the box blade and I found myself plugged up. Thats why I went ahead and built a subsoiler... no box to catch things.

The Hay King renovator has coulters that slice the sod. That way, you don't tear up the sod in the first place. Coulters also allows the plow to run deeper with less resistance.