Pat's Quick Hitch (Greenwell Mfg.) Customer Service

[CADplans]

Is there any reason the Pat's has to be tighten with these bolts onto the lift arm? Should they be kept loose so that the Pat's has some "sideways swivel movement" when the arms are raised and lowered?

Yes, I had a similar concern when I installed the Pat's,,,

I tossed the original bolts, and replaced them with all Grade 8 bolts,,
I also selected lengths that eliminated the use of the jam nuts,,,

I think I remember using at least three different lengths of Grade 8 bolts,,
I thought about using Grade 9, but, that would have been over-kill,, the Grade 8 have been perfect.

The install looks better when the nuts are eliminated.
Some of the bolts are tightened completely,, so they are jammed,,,

Having the Pat's adapters rigid has worked well for me, CAT I or CAT II attachments,,,

 

[CobyRupert]

Yes, I had a similar concern when I installed the Pat's,,,

I tossed the original bolts, and replaced them with all Grade 8 bolts,,
I also selected lengths that eliminated the use of the jam nuts,,,

I guess my question is: Does one even need those adjustment bolts? What would be the problem be if you didn't use them, or left them "loose"?

I stopped using those special retaining washers that show in your picture. You would think it would be impossible, but too many times (and once in the worst spot on a "maximum" (for me) sloped sidehill) the bottom of the washer finds a way to slip past the bottom of the snap retainer bolt. I suppose a custom longer retainer "bolt" relative to the retainer's snap "ring" might solve it from bouncing up too high, but repeatedly the perfect storm would occur. With that design only the bottom of the snap retainer bolt needs to slip through.

 

[jwstewar]

I guess my question is: Does one even need those adjustment bolts? What would be the problem be if you didn't use them, or left them "loose"?

I stopped using those special retaining washers that show in your picture. You would think it would be impossible, but too many times (and once in the worst spot on a "maximum" (for me) sloped sidehill) the bottom of the washer finds a way to slip past the bottom of the snap retainer bolt. I suppose a custom longer retainer "bolt" relative to the retainer's snap "ring" might solve it from bouncing up too high, but repeatedly the perfect storm would occur. With that design only the bottom of the snap retainer bolt needs to slip through.

I can't tell if they have changed it from mine, but if they are like mine, the snap pin goes around the bent part of the washer. There is no way for it to come out.

 

[CobyRupert]

I can't tell if they have changed it from mine, but if they are like mine, the snap pin goes around the bent part of the washer. There is no way for it to come out.

You would think.
If the snap pin ring is about the same length/diameter as the snap pin stud is long (like the one in the picture), the bottom of the stud can be almost flush with the bottom of the hole as the ring won't stop it from rising to that spot. Then take a 1100 pound mower applying just the right side force on the washer at just the right time and the bottom of the washer slips by the snap pin stud. Once that happens the washer pops open the ring. The rest is just a matter of time.

Either that, or somehow the bent top of the washer pushes open the snap ring because it can pivot somewhat on the attachment pin by virtue of its shape.

One way or another: It does happen. Honest.

 

[the old grind]

More than one kind of pin, there is. 1+ Safety Pin Options: Square, Round, & Coiled Wire

 

[CobyRupert]

More than one kind of pin, there is. 1+ Safety Pin Options: Square, Round, & Coiled Wire

True it is.
Regular washers also work with any pin.

Do any Pat's users know why these bolts are even necessary?
Would leaving them loose retain the (swivel) function of the ball socket on the lift arm that the Pat's system occupies (and eliminates if bolts clamp down)?

 

[Notforhire]

[/I] :thumbsup: I've had both, and imagine upgrading to the latter would cost more than PEC.

I decided to bite the bullet and get extendable links and you are quite correct about the cost.

I paid $733 for new extendable lift arms from JD. I think my Pat's Cat2-Cat1 set ran around $225
I thought about getting some junked arms and welding/rebuilding them, but decided to just go ahead with new.

If my attachments sat on concrete, I would have them on dollies to ease hookup. Unfortunately they all sit on dirt or gravel.

So we'll just eat more hotdogs and less steak for a while.

My only regret is that I didn't make the change sooner.

 

[jwstewar]

You would think.
If the snap pin ring is about the same length/diameter as the snap pin stud is long (like the one in the picture), the bottom of the stud can be almost flush with the bottom of the hole as the ring won't stop it from rising to that spot. Then take a 1100 pound mower applying just the right side force on the washer at just the right time and the bottom of the washer slips by the snap pin stud. Once that happens the washer pops open the ring. The rest is just a matter of time.

Either that, or somehow the bent top of the washer pushes open the snap ring because it can pivot somewhat on the attachment pin by virtue of its shape.

One way or another: It does happen. Honest.

If you convert to the black lynch pins and put them on like I described above, there is no way they can come open. I've been using mine that way for 15 years without issue (granted on a smaller tractor), but I've done a little bit of everything else including bent my top link, broken/lost the bolt on my "fixed" 3pt arm, lost the top link pin, bent the lift pin on an implement, etc.

 

[3gunr]

I went with pats after a long deliberation and have been very happy with them ,I dont even use the width guide anymore . I have found it to be unnecesary most of the time.

 

[Sono]

There are still some great companies out there, or should I say its all in how you present yourself...Attitude is everything.
I was looking for a powerful blower with no luck, last fall to blow leaves off the property, as all they did was bunch up in front of the rider. Researching online there were only a few with 200+ mph wind speed. I went to lowes to get some parts to fix a leaky faucet and remembered they had a backpack blower that would work that was $250. As I get to the aisle and look they are sold out and discontinued and all that was left was the display, no hoses, nozzles...ect, just the backpack body of the blower. The employees looked everywhere with no luck so I though get it discounted and buy PVC pipes. So they reduced it to $80 for the display model and after they couldn't find the tubes and other parts they reduced it to $40. I bought it, no box, no instructions...nothing ! I got home and called the manufacturer and told them everything, they shipped me all 3 tubes, the flex hose and clamps along with the nozzle all free. I ended up with a $250 blower for $40 + tax. Buying scratch n dent, open box and display models can save tons of money.