PaulB Rotary

[RICK R]

wen, on position control there three holes on draft four holes they are to adjust for soil conditions for plowing, etc. bottom hole is for harder ground also for mowers, both mid and rear mount

 

[RICK R]

wen,my manual says with position control there are three holes, on draft control they are four. the harder the gound the lower hole you need to use. for plowing that is.for mowing you also use bottom hole.if draft control is to be used draft resonse is more sensitive when top link mounting holes are used.

 

[Jay Drow]

Mike H:

If you have a TC33D why didn't you go for a 6' rotary to cover the width of you tractor? I put a deposit on a TC33D and have started the implement search. - JayD

 

[W5FL]

Jay, I don't own a TC33, so take this with a grain of salt. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

While there are 6 ft mowers that are pretty light, Rhino, Bush Hog and several name brands are about 700 pound for the light duty mowers and 950 pounds for the medium duty mowers. Since that 700 pounds is located way behind the tractor, it can be a problem simply from the weight. General rules are that 6 ft equipment usually is recommended for 40 pto hp tractors. It doesn't take 40 hp to cut grass with one, but in heavy damp grass, and going uphill, the hp load is not insignificant. The other problem is that the 3 point can pick it up, but the tractor steering gets light because the weight on the front decreases. You can easily overcome this by using a front end loader which easily counter balances the rear load or by adding weights on the front.

Get the dealer to loan you the operating manual for your TC33. It should have detailed recommendations for the implements that it is compatable with. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

I've noticed several people have mentioned using a front end loader for front weight when mowing, and of course, it'll do what it's supposed to do, i.e., keep the front wheels on the ground when you pick up the loader. And I guess in many areas, that's fine, but so much of my mowing is rough ground that I found the weight of the front end loader that far in front of the tractor causes the front end to bounce up and down more. It sure is a lot smoother ride and less tiring to do my mowing without the front end loader on the tractor. Of course, my mowers are small enough the tractor can handle them without additional weight on the front end.

Bird

 

[W5FL]

Good point, Bird

I had that problem with my Massey 245 and Great Bend Loader. It bounced on rough ground and really limited mowing speed.

I think the M6800 is a lot heavier and the loader is a lot better made. This combination works about the same either on or off. The front tires are also much larger and that helps stabilize the loader, too. This loader comes off with no tools very easily. The Great Bend was a lot of work to take off and stayed on.

One other real difference now is that I have a quick attach bucket. Takes a few seconds to remove the bucket which gets rid of several hundered pounds and also provides a lot of clearance for mowing and not hitting things with the bucket. It also does not block the lights when I have to have them on (seldom).

 

[Bird]

Yeah Wen, these quick attach loaders are great. My little B7100 loader was not a quick attach and was never off, but this little B2710 loader goes on or off so quick and easy that I never have it on for tilling or mowing. Of course, a bigger tractor makes a big difference, too./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Yours is up there in a different class./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bird

 

[Mike H]

As I think about it, I suppose I had several reasons:
1. Exactly what Wen said. I spent a fair amount of time researching all this "stuff" (I'm referring to learning about tractors for somebody who's never owned one) and the rule seemed to be use a 5' for a 33 hp tractor. By the way thank you Bird and Mark (and all you future poster winners!. I researched tractors for over a year - much from this forum - and being able to lurk and soak in you experience/expertise was a tremendous help.
2. I asked my dealer. When he delivered the tractor, I pointed to my pasture and asked "what size?". His response was "a 5' is perfect for this".
3. I went cheap on the cutter. This was intentional because I really didn't know what I needed. I've had a small number of horses on 15 acres for a dozen years and the pastures have never received any attention. They're only 70% pasture now and I assumed that what I needed for chopping the thing back into shape and what I'll need for mowing grass might be different.

I've only mowed once so far. I could easily have handled a bigger cutter where it's just grass; but I had to be careful with saplings. When they're all gone and I've got decent fence lines, I may be smart enough to know what I actually need and the worst case situation is I used up a cheap cutter. I never once considered tractor width in picking the cutter.

Good luck w/ your TC33. So far I'm quite pleased. Only problem: I got the backhoe installed last weekend and spent it digging out stumps. Like another discussion topic about the "mowing wife", my son loved the backhoe action. I got to move the tractor from place to place so he could put his Nintendo expertise to work!

 

[JimBinMI]

Re: NH TC33

Wen,

Are the Operating Manual and the Operator's Manual different? My TC came with the Operator's Manual, however, though it gives great information it doesn't state implement sizes for my tractor. The sales brochure does state implement sizes.

JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[JimBinMI]

Re: NH TC33 Rotary

Mike H,

Just looked at the brochure on the TC18-33's and yours is rated for a 5' or 6' rotary cutter. In fact from TC25 up to yours you can use either a 5' or 6' rotary.

Since my TC18 will handle a 4', I know that your TC33 would have to handle a 6' with no problem! But it's just fine and dandy with me that you went with the 5', you might even be able to take out a couple of oak trees with that baby! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Good Luck and enjoy that awesome piece of machinery!
<font color=blue>Referring to the TC here!</font color=blue>

JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[Jay Drow]

Re: NH TC33 Rotary

Thanks to all for the responses. I'll look closely at the 5' cutter to be on the safe side. I'd rather have to make a couple passes than not be able to get in-between something.

Mike H - Did you purchase your KK @ QF&F on Airport Road in Jackson?

What size blade should I buy for the rear of a TC33D; 60", 72" or 84"?

I'm also looking at the Scarifier/Rake combo set-up from Land Pride (Series 25). We have heavy clay soil that I need to "de-rock", smooth out and grow a lawn on. What's a good width: 66" or 77"? - Thanks

 

[Mike H]

Re: NH TC33 Rotary

I purchased the KK rotary cutter at the QF&F in Portage (because I work in Kzo it was convenient). If you do go with the KK, I found:
- I had to loosen the bolt on the rear wheel so it would rotate
- remember to grease and oil since it comes unlubricated
- when you assemble it, you put a pretty good bend in the front to rear braces to install
- I've got some bracket in my shop that I never figured out what it was for (so the instruction manual's pretty weak)
- It doesn't come w/ any guards so be careful ( I got whacked in the head w/ debris just to prove this to myself!)

I'm going to get at least a 72" rear blade before snow falls - I do want that wider than the tractor. This should work a little better than the 48" plow on my garden tractor!

 

[JimBinMI]

Re: NH TC33 Rotary

The brochure I have shows that the TC33 is rated for a 60", 72" or an 84" rear blade. I use a 60" on the mighty TC18 and it works great. Some here on the board have recommended that the blade cover your tracks even when angled. I would think you would want to go at least 72" if not bigger. Have you owned a diesel before? If not, you'll be amazed with what 33 hp will do, I am amazed at my 18.5 hp! /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

Enjoy!

JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[JimBinMI]

Re: NH TC33 Rotary

Mike H & other Michiganders,

QF&F is building a new store in Battle Creek on Beckley Rd. right next door to Lowe's! Can't wait it's one of my favorite toy stores along with TSC, any hardware, any electronics, .... You know the old saying, he who dies with the most toys wins! I'm not even close, but I'm still semi-young. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

JimBinMI

We boys and our toys!

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Re: NH TC33 Rotary

Sounds like a 72" or 84" blade. Any comments from anyone on the Scarifier/Rake combo set-up from Land Pride (Series 25)?

Any thoughts on the 60" cutter vs. something wider?

Yes, I'm a familiar w/ the diesel engine as a workhorse. Can't beat 'em. Maybe these gas prices will get this country thinking about diesel, again. Europe has been keen on diesel for years. You can't go wrong w/ anything that's a DI, intercooled Turbo Diesel, except for maybe throwing in a VGT (Variable Geometry Turbo [no wastegate]).

Thanks for all the inputs…, . JayD

 

[glennmac]

PaulB,

Did you solve you cutter height adjustment problem? I've been puzzling over how to get mine a little higher off the ground.

Glenn

 

[PaulB]

glennmac - I learned to live with it. On my ground I never need to lift the rear wheel off the ground, so I left it as is. To fix it I would have to drill new holes for the 3 point mounting pins lower on the mower frame. Not a big job, but one I decided to leave well enough alone. Did you fiddle with the lift arm mounting holes on the lower lift arms? I guess they put different holes because some will give more leverage/less lift, and others less leverage/more lift. Seems intuitive that the farther out you mount the lift arms (more toward the implement) the more leverage/less travel, but someone who knows for sure should confirm this before you try anything.