Torvy
Super Member
Do you know what was in Triox? I always got good results with it.
"Permanent" herbicide
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ultrarunner
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
My other farm is full of Mesquite trees. They are horrible, invasive, difficult trees to get rid of. I've been spraying them with a mixture of Remedy and diesel fuel. What has surprised me is how well this kills all the grass around the base of the tree. Is it the diesel fuel that kills the grass, or the Remedy?
I've tried a few variations of Roundup that work on what is growing there, but it always comes back in a few months. I also tried RM43 along my fence line, which acted the same as Roundup. Killed what was growing, but more weeds came back in a few months.
My neighbor had good results with Crossbow. It seemed to work for the year, but he has to spray it every year. He hasn't sprayed in the last few years and I'm not sure why he quite.
I've tried a few variations of Roundup that work on what is growing there, but it always comes back in a few months. I also tried RM43 along my fence line, which acted the same as Roundup. Killed what was growing, but more weeds came back in a few months.
My neighbor had good results with Crossbow. It seemed to work for the year, but he has to spray it every year. He hasn't sprayed in the last few years and I'm not sure why he quite.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
Even the soil sterilizer doesn't necessarily kill the seeds; but it does stay in the soil area and prevent any from sprouting for an extended time.
Arsenal; I read, you shoot a 6" band of ground, you can expect soil creep to kill about an 18" wide area. Point being, it's strong stuff, and you kinda need/want to plan it out; don't just spray willy nilly, and hope for the best.
Arsenal; I read, you shoot a 6" band of ground, you can expect soil creep to kill about an 18" wide area. Point being, it's strong stuff, and you kinda need/want to plan it out; don't just spray willy nilly, and hope for the best.
319Quahog
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If that isn't working on your trees, try Tordon RTU. It excels at killing stumps, woody brush, and full size trees.
For fresh stumps, just a few drops on the cambium layer-basically where the bark meets the tree.
Older stumps, either freshen them up or cut and treat the stump sprouts.
For brush do similar-cut down and hit the exposed meat.
For full size trees, drill into the cambium and squirt some in. Every handful of inches around the tree. Tree will be dead within a year/maybe two.
Be careful as it can travel through mingled roots and kill something you don't want to kill. It will also stay present in the ground for up to a year supposedly.
Cheapest place I've found it online in the quart squirt bottles is Rural King.
I've been using it to tame this new lot I have. Knocking out the ginormous poplars and other things that I don't feel like chasing with a saw this year.
plowhog
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I have been using Crossbow to knock back the blackberries. First it became illegal in CA, now is also illegal in NV. Not sure why.
WM75Guy
Elite Member
I spray the riding arena, driveway, and fence lines. I use Mojave 70EG mixed with Roundup. The Roundup gives it a quick kill and the Mojave prevents growth for a year.
Mtsoxfan
Platinum Member
Following...
I've planted wildflowers in an area that was tilled then very aged/composted horse manure worked in. Wild flowers grew great year 1, year 2, whatever seed was in manure took over. For those in the know, am I chasing a pipe dream thinking wildflowers will grow unopposed by weeds? In another area, no manure worked in, and by year 3, hay (which was originally there) took over.
Being July, I'm willing to cut my losses for the year, if I can effectively treat the areas, killing everything off, to plant wildflowers later in year (if possible) to have flowers next year.
End goal is to reduce grassy areas, add color to area that will benefit pollinators etc.
I've planted wildflowers in an area that was tilled then very aged/composted horse manure worked in. Wild flowers grew great year 1, year 2, whatever seed was in manure took over. For those in the know, am I chasing a pipe dream thinking wildflowers will grow unopposed by weeds? In another area, no manure worked in, and by year 3, hay (which was originally there) took over.
Being July, I'm willing to cut my losses for the year, if I can effectively treat the areas, killing everything off, to plant wildflowers later in year (if possible) to have flowers next year.
End goal is to reduce grassy areas, add color to area that will benefit pollinators etc.
WinterDeere
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Weed kills (2-4D, glysphosphate, triclopyr, etc.) do just that... kill actively growing weeds. They aren't designed to offer weed barrier / block performance, in fact most are designed specifically to leave the ground safe for planting just 3 weeks after planting (or even less for Mesotrione).
As rgr33 already said, You need a weed block, preferably applied in March. This will form a mechanical barrier layer in the surface soil, to prevent new weeds from germinating. Generally called "pre-emergent" herbicides, usually purchased as granular, but also available as spray. If applying to gravel, I don't think spray is an option, as it will just sit on the surface of the gravel, never make it down to where the weeds are actually rooting and germinating... you probably want granular. These products are typically designed to block germination for 12 or 16 weeks, leaving soil ready for over-seeding in September when applied in March. In your case, you might want to apply 2x per year, just mind your yearly maximum thresholds, for ground water concern.
As rgr33 already said, You need a weed block, preferably applied in March. This will form a mechanical barrier layer in the surface soil, to prevent new weeds from germinating. Generally called "pre-emergent" herbicides, usually purchased as granular, but also available as spray. If applying to gravel, I don't think spray is an option, as it will just sit on the surface of the gravel, never make it down to where the weeds are actually rooting and germinating... you probably want granular. These products are typically designed to block germination for 12 or 16 weeks, leaving soil ready for over-seeding in September when applied in March. In your case, you might want to apply 2x per year, just mind your yearly maximum thresholds, for ground water concern.
WinterDeere
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I forgot one other thing. Weed blocks rely on rain to carry them into the surface soil, probably even more so when applied to a gravel drive. Hopefully you have some spring/fall rain, that you can time application with.
