PHD-Fenceing A Little Help

[ctpres]

Never used one, havn't even hooked it up yet. Have several thousand feet of fence to do. Biggest problem I see is front five board fence. Very visable and post spacing critical for efficient use of material. I suspect this is an easy question with a l o n g answer.

 

[radman1]

Haven't installed a wood fence other than my back yard. That fence was more ornate and required the building of prefabbed sections placed between each post. Built all the sections then set each post as needed.
I am assuming this is a typical rail and post fence with flat boards of similar length, say 16' boards with post every 8' . In your case, the easiest way is set each post 3-4 inches shorter than the length of boards. Cut each board/rail to fit as go after the posts are set. You waste a little wood but save a lot of time and your spacing between posts can be nearly the same. Unless the posts are very close together, a few inches difference between posts won't be noticeable.
The other method is put each rail and post up as you move along but this seems to take much longer unless your have multiple people helping. Even then the boards will probably not be the same exact length.

Use a string or wire to set a straight fence line from the ends of the fence. Ideally, the straight line should not touch the ground between the ends, so it stays straight. Can even use 2 strings, one high and one low to help get the posts perpendicular. Set the posts near but not touching the straight line. If possible do a short section first that is not too noticeable until you get the hang of what you need to do. Since you havn't done this before, you have a considerable learning curve. A wood fence requires greater perfection than a simple wire fence. You will probably need a short level to get each post perpendicular as you set them.

 

[volcamp]

I am in the process of building a 120x240 riding arena. This also is my first time using a PHD. I'll admit, I had one heck of a time hooking it up the first time. Try to have a helper, would have made my life easier. I'll not go into how I layed out my oval ends as it sounds you won't be going there. The use of a tight line (string) is essential. I pull my string then measured out my post locations and marked them with marker flags. I then used marker spray paint to paint a spot at the bse of each flag. Pulled the flags and started popping holes. I did learn that the basic PHD does not always drill a straight hole. About 1/3 of the holes needed some amount of touchup with the manual style PHD, but it was usually very minor effort. My biggest issue was due to our ongoing drought. The dirst was so dry I had to sometimes add water to get the dirt to move up out of the hole. We have a very light and sandy soil.

 

[MDSteve]

I am not the fence master but have put in a couple 10 acre pastures and a few barns. I put in the corners first then run a string close to the ground. Then I start the hole with a shovel. This is to make sure the PHD starts where you want it. I use a larger auger than needed because I am lazy and would rather fill in more than redig holes that are a little off. My wife and I do all the work around the farm and she makes the decisions. If the fence has a bow or has a few posts not perfect, she is the one that gave the thumbs up on the job. This way she can't complain if it's not perfect.

Steve

 

[TomPenny]

What kind of wood fence are you building? Steel or Wood Posts? Fab'd panels or building it yourself?

 

[ctpres]

Building five rail all wood fence. Four side rails and one flat on top. Would like to do something different (cheaper) but neighbor fenced his access road (runs parallel to about half of our front property line) so I pretty much need to match it or things will look wierd. I never plan any projects that I can't do by myself. So I spend a lot of time running projects thru mind before starting. Took me three months to R/R tractor rear end axel housing, three months to plan research and ask TBN questions and only one day to do the work. I'v decided to hold off a few more weeks on the front fence and do 300' across back where no one can see. With three to one iron to wood posts I can get some hole digging done and no body will know about my mistakes but me. Problem with rear fence is flood water. Expect water over top of fence every few years. I Think water flow will be mostly parallel to fence. Purpose of this fence is mostly to keep stray cattle out and occasional neighbors cattle in.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've built a few wood privacy fences, but never one like what you are going to do. In my experience, getting the posts set in the exact spot is really the hardest part. Measure, measure and measure again. If you are off one inch, you will have issues with the next one over and getting the rails to line up. If you ARE going to be off, it's much better to be too close then too far apart.

I have a 12 inch auger and find it to be just barely large enough for fence posts. If I was to buy another auger, I'd go bigger. It's allot faster and easier to put dirt back in the hole, then it is to adjust the hole with your clamshells.

Speaking of clamshell diggers. Get the best that you can afford. This is something that you will rely on and with as much fence to install as you are going to do, quality will make a huge difference. Mine are all metal and heavy enough that they dig on there own. I just got to line them up and they will take out dirt on the way down. Of course, it's more work to lift out a heavier set of clamshells, but that's a trade off I'll gladly take. I have a lightweight pair that never get used because they are so hard to dig with.

One trick that I've just discovered is to start the hole with a shovel. Just a small depression makes a huge difference in keeping the auger where you want it. Kind of like drilling metal with a center punch hammered into the spot you want to drill.

Get a fence post level that goes on two sides of the post. Also get some extra, small bungee cords to replace the rubber band that comes with it. They break after a few weeks use.

Don't worry about post height when setting the posts. It's easy to come back and cut them off after you have your rails up. If you cut them off too soon, or set the posts too deep, it's too late to adjust your rails when you install them.

I don't know if gravel, a large rock or a disk at the bottom of the hole does anything or not. I've repaired quite a few rotten out fence posts and in every case, they rot out at ground level. I've only seen very minimal damage to the ends of a post, and wouldn't worry about them at all. The key to a long lasting wood fence is to keep water away from the post at ground level. I put a crown on the dirt or cement when I put in a new post. The bigger it is, the better. You have to keep water away from your posts. Nothing else matters, just be sure that water will never puddle around them.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[ctpres]

Thanks Eddie but lite wooden handles for me. A secret to sucess on projects for old men is "slow and steady" is better than fast and furrious in everything including sex!

 

[TomPenny]

12 auger, man Eddie I thought my aim was bad

I started off with a 6" auger. The guy at the tractor store suggested it since I was using 2 3/8 pipe. I'm not going to listen to him anymore. I bumped up to a 8" and I don't have to hand dig too much, a few every now and then. I say that at the risk of sounding like the guy at the store.

I was asking about your posts. If you going to go through the trouble of building a non-cheapo wood fence, I suggest you use steel post. It cost more now but not as much as it cost later. You can get the the brackets that slip over the post, fasten with one lag bolt and screw into the horz. rail.

Simpson makes them and if you buy them at HD they are 1.00. A good fence supply company should be .50

Regardless of the post type, I don't try and get my post dead nuts on the mark. I shoot for a little short and cut off an inch or two where it meets up with the post/bracket. Saves a lot of time.

Also You can rent a nailer and compressor. A siding coil nailer is the way to go when you put up the pickets. Not a roofing coil nailer. They rent for about 50 bucks. As long as you don't shoot yourself you'll not regret getting one.

When your putting up the pickets Stop step back and look. Nothing slows you down more that prying pickets loose trying not to break them.

I only build wood fence when moma needs a new pair of shoes.

 

[EddieWalker]

Hi Tom,

I'm not a fencer, but do allot of repairs and will build whatever a client asks me to build. We have allot of wood privacy fences that are about ten years old that are rotting out all over the area that give me some business from time to time. LOL I agree that metal posts would be stronger and last longer, but the client decides what I use.

I've never heard of or seen a siding coil nailer. I have a roofing coil nailer, but don't use nails on my pickets. It might be that's what others use and why they don't last, but nails never hold pickets in very solid, and in a very short time, they work loose and allow the pickets to twist and move around.

I will only use screws. It's a little bit more money in time, but I've never had a client complain. In fact, it's one of those things that they mention to thier friends when recomending me.

Eddie