PHD-Fenceing A Little Help

   / PHD-Fenceing A Little Help #11  
I know what you mean about screws. Decks of course need screws.

There are a lot of high end fences that go up around here. More often than not it's cedar. An 8' #1 cedar board on board fence with a top plate 2x4 cedar rails, bottom treated 2x6 kick plate with steel posts starts at around 35.00 a foot.

They typically last a long time. You rarely ever see one in its normal life span that is failing because of fastners. You never see a professional using screws. Not only is cost prohivtive, it's not necessary if you use the right nail.
http://www.bostitch.com/catalog_images/web_detail/AC8DRSS_web_detail.jpg

A roofing coil nailer does not shoot a 2 to 2 1/2 inch coil nail. At least the last I checked. I always wondered why the limited the roof nailer to 1 3/4. Thats why fence builders go with a siding nailer. I don't know why the name siding nailer stuck. I guess they consider pickets siding. Regardless this is a siding nailer and it's what pro fence builders use
Duo-Fast CNP-60Y 1-1/4" to 2-1/4" Coil Nailer

Back to the nails, the proper nail does not work itself loose. Sure wood shrinks over time but quality cedar doesn't shrink to the extent the nail falls out. I supose you could argue that overkill never hurt anyone and if a customer wants screws I'd give it to him. Pardon the punn.

These nails can hardly be pulled out with a wonder bar or a claw hammer. It usually tears up the wood doing it. At least a lot of the time.

But no one can doubt the power of a deck screw. Its as good as any nail perhaps it is somewhat better. Not to the extent that it's practical. And certainly you wouldnt win any bids around here by quoting an amount worth the cost of using screws.
 
   / PHD-Fenceing A Little Help
  • Thread Starter
#12  
One thing I learned about PHD worth passing on. Get drill point over spot then "set brakes" then drill. Once I started setting brake all holes were right the first time. No touch-up required.
 
   / PHD-Fenceing A Little Help #13  
I have a little experience digging holes for fences and recently for planting Mejool Date trees here in California. I put up a fence in town a couple of months ago where there wasn't enough room to get a tractor in to use, so what I used was a bulb auger (From Lowes) on my 1/2 drill to dig a pilot hole
on my string line at the exact spacing followed by a one man gas powered auger with a 6" auger. It might sound crazy, but I have had good results with using those light duty augers first.

Digging holes with a tractor PHD can be a chore if the soil is hard and dry. Does anyone have good ideas on maybe making a PHD that could be attached to a forklift and ran by hydraulic instead od PTO?

Chappy
 
   / PHD-Fenceing A Little Help #14  
John Chappelear said:
I have a little experience digging holes for fences and recently for planting Mejool Date trees here in California. I put up a fence in town a couple of months ago where there wasn't enough room to get a tractor in to use, so what I used was a bulb auger (From Lowes) on my 1/2 drill to dig a pilot hole
on my string line at the exact spacing followed by a one man gas powered auger with a 6" auger. It might sound crazy, but I have had good results with using those light duty augers first.

Digging holes with a tractor PHD can be a chore if the soil is hard and dry. Does anyone have good ideas on maybe making a PHD that could be attached to a forklift and ran by hydraulic instead od PTO?

Chappy


You can start with this thread to get the general idea

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/106099-mounting-rhino-phd-fel.html

Be sure you have enough hydraulic gpm to run whatever hydraulic motor you select for your project.
 

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