Picked up a new (used) disk this weekend...

[RobJ]

Paid $175 for the PM brand. Looks about like a lot of other light duty 5' disks. The had just replaced the front disks with some cutters, very sharp still. I got it home and promptly took it apart. I can move it around easier in pieces. Got some bent 3pt stuff straightened. Painted and greased. Interesing there are no bearings, just sort of a heavy grease between the cast housing the the steel shaft. Also had some flywheel on top of it, VERY heavy. May of may not need this if my L will pull it. Now I'm done and I just have to wait to get it up to the country.

So far I think I got a good deal.

 

[roxynoodle]

You did a nice job! Looks great!

 

[Sully2]

Mind if I ask why you decided on black to paint it? Or was it "black is as good as any color" sort of thing?

Im in the "process" of working on a set I got..very similiar to yours but I notice my "trailing arms" ( from the top link connection) on mine go almost all the way to the very back...right about the rear set of discs..? Just another variation I suppose??

Im thinking Kubota Orange...but that might get to be a real PITA..and may decide "black is good enough"... But Ive got to get a set of standard sized impact sockets....some of the bolts are just WAYYY to tight for "armstrong" removal.

Local TSC has some pretty decent paint..and if you use their recommended thinner drys FAST...with with their hardener in it...2 coats makes for a pretty DA**ED durable finish....I just have to decide which color is all

 

[RobJ]

I guess it's just a little design difference. I was at the local tractor place on Saturday with my BIL and they basically the same model 4' wide(this one is 5'). $540!!!!!!! Mine has a PM Manufactoring sticker on it, not much on it on the net but the "bearingless" hangers were also on the new $540 version, so I can get parts if I ever need them.

I paint my stuff black because of a study the Houston Fire Department did years and years ago. They use to have red trucks, then painted them white because they would be more visible. After some years they noticed the trucks were rusting at a hight rate (keep in mind they wash the trucks a lot). The study concluded that the darker color held the heat, evaporated the water faster which led to less rust. The white reflected the heat. So since most of my stuff sits outside it makes sense. So everything gets black, also easy to get black to match. Plus that true Kubota orange is very expensive. I also don't like to use spray cans because it's thinned so much you barely get a thick film of paint(and it costs a lot!!) So that's my black story. This disk was yellow, but even after an hour of use this weekend...the color didn't really matter.

Rob

BTW it did take me some time to fiddle with the lift to get it to cut right. Lift arms had to be set right, then the top link so it would ride flat. But in the end all was well.

 

[Sully2]

I guess it's just a little design difference. I was at the local tractor place on Saturday with my BIL and they basically the same model 4' wide(this one is 5'). $540!!!!!!! Mine has a PM Manufactoring sticker on it, not much on it on the net but the "bearingless" hangers were also on the new $540 version, so I can get parts if I ever need them.

I paint my stuff black because of a study the Houston Fire Department did years and years ago. They use to have red trucks, then painted them white because they would be more visible. After some years they noticed the trucks were rusting at a hight rate (keep in mind they wash the trucks a lot). The study concluded that the darker color held the heat, evaporated the water faster which led to less rust. The white reflected the heat. So since most of my stuff sits outside it makes sense. So everything gets black, also easy to get black to match. Plus that true Kubota orange is very expensive. I also don't like to use spray cans because it's thinned so much you barely get a thick film of paint(and it costs a lot!!) So that's my black story. This disk was yellow, but even after an hour of use this weekend...the color didn't really matter.

Rob

BTW it did take me some time to fiddle with the lift to get it to cut right. Lift arms had to be set right, then the top link so it would ride flat. But in the end all was well.

Interesting about the color VS heat..etc...Hmmm??

TSC here has all 25 colors for $23 a gallon...and since I want to do touchup on the FEL bucket this winter ( fall actually) I may just spring for that color.??..who knows at this point..*S*

I know what you mean about "adjustments"..lift arms..top link..etc..etc.

I do understand also about the "price" of new ones!..GEEZE!! The guy I got mine from..a buddy of a buddy kind of thing..was going to GIVE ME this set!!!! and I told him I wasnt having any part of that BS...lol So he says ..How about $150"...and he tossed in a new "TSC" ( china) top link in the deal???...geeeeze! Mighty tough to beat for sure.

Ive already got a spray gun to paint with...but need to get to Harbor Freight tomorrow for some impact sockets. The more I look at it..the more I THINK I want to tear it all down to get everything "scrubbed"..."de-rusted"..lol They sure are worth the effort though...prices of a new set is out of thi world

 

[RobJ]

This one was very easy to tear down. 4 - 1/2" bolts hold on the disk pods (4 total pods). Then the same 1/2" bolts (2 each) hold the "quasai bearing". Instead of using another trailer to haul it up to the country I kept it apart, laid the fram in the back of my pick up, rolled the atv on top and loaded the pods along sode of the atv. Then put the frame on the tractor, adjusted the height and bolted the pods on.

Does yours have the quasai type bearings or real bearings. At the tractor place all the small ones had these types. The bigger disks had the sealed bearings.

Check this out, it is a solid steel weight that was on the disk. Got to be 250# or better. I can just lift it off the gound and no way possible can I lift it into a pickup or on the disk. I used ramps to load and unload (actually I dumped it off the bed of my pick up. It would probably make it dig better!

Rob

 

[Sully2]

This one was very easy to tear down. 4 - 1/2" bolts hold on the disk pods (4 total pods). Then the same 1/2" bolts (2 each) hold the "quasai bearing". Instead of using another trailer to haul it up to the country I kept it apart, laid the fram in the back of my pick up, rolled the atv on top and loaded the pods along sode of the atv. Then put the frame on the tractor, adjusted the height and bolted the pods on.

Does yours have the quasai type bearings or real bearings. At the tractor place all the small ones had these types. The bigger disks had the sealed bearings.

Check this out, it is a solid steel weight that was on the disk. Got to be 250# or better. I can just lift it off the gound and no way possible can I lift it into a pickup or on the disk. I used ramps to load and unload (actually I dumped it off the bed of my pick up. It would probably make it dig better!

Rob

My "bearing hangers" are different than yours...but it appears the same number of bolts holds mine also. Bearings are like yours ( I saw the opened up one..)..and frankly..the more I understand about them..I prefer the type we have. Ive NEVER seen any "sealed bearing" that at some point didnt go bad...because of lack of lubrication.....and how can one ADD lube to a "sealed" bearing? Of course if we dont put new lube in ours from time to time..they will go south also...

Not sure what I'll use for additional weight on it...if and when I thin I might need some??

I'll probably wind up twisting all my hanger bolts off using an impact wrench ( no torch here...*pout*)...I tried breaking them loose with a socket and 24" breaker bar and thought I was going to rupture myself... MANNNN are they TIGHT...but I have to get them off so I can turn it upside down to scrape ; wirebrush and prime the underside of the frame. Im going to pick up new lift pins too...might as well...

Its running in the mid 90's here this week...so "outside work" is a bare minimum......but I'll try and take a few snap pics of what I have and show you this setup.

 

[Sully2]

Here's some quick snaps I took...showing the different bearing hangers and the toplink struts. MAN I wish it was in the 60's here so I could get something really done on this thing!!

 

[RobJ]

Interesting, same disk pods though. Notice it's a simpler design. Only one piece of bent angle in the whole thing, mine has 4. This would be easier to copy as a home made disk if someone could round up the other parts. Is the smooth round sleeve between disks 2-3 hollow or is that covering something. If you look at the pic below you can see on mine the sleeve or separator can actually be swapped out to one of the greased ends. But if you look closer at the one in the pic it looks like its already been used and looks worn. I remember a couple of mine have not been use.

Nice pics and let me know how id digs. We really have the same set up.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[Sully2]

Interesting, same disk pods though. Notice it's a simpler design. Only one piece of bent angle in the whole thing, mine has 4. This would be easier to copy as a home made disk if someone could round up the other parts. Is the smooth round sleeve between disks 2-3 hollow or is that covering something. If you look at the pic below you can see on mine the sleeve or separator can actually be swapped out to one of the greased ends. But if you look closer at the one in the pic it looks like its already been used and looks worn. I remember a couple of mine have not been use.
Nice pics and let me know how id digs. We really have the same set up.
Thanks,
Rob

No idea about the sleevs...although there is NO bearings inside of it. May NEVER know..because I dont want to have to take anymore apart that I absolutely have to. I wont even remove the bearing housing from the hangers...I know they are full of grease..and turned easily by hand even before I used 2 tubes of grease on this critter. I cant tell from topside is it has BOLTS or STUDS..and I sure as heck dont want to be breaking some studs off and have to go thru that PITA!!!

I went and bought sockets today..up to 1 1/4"..and woudnt you know it..the lift pin nuts are bigger than that!!! Got one off with a pipe wrench...the second..well..all I know is I'll never father any children because of it..LOL. Its getting "La Torch" come friday morning..lol

Got paint..with hardner for it..and PLENTY of thinner for cleanup. BLACK for the disc......and also a qt of Kubota orange for touchup on my FEL later this year.

So far..paint and all..Im in hock for close to $200.. ( and 3 buckets of dammed sweat.....) still aint a bad deal though.

 

[dbdartman]

I went and bought sockets today..up to 1 1/4"..and woudnt you know it..the lift pin nuts are bigger than that!!! Got one off with a pipe wrench...the second..well..all I know is I'll never father any children because of it..LOL.

I went through the exact same thing a few months ago. Got one nut off with a pipe wrench (by standing on it), but the other... What I discovered was the nuts were just a tiny bit bigger than 1.25" (29 or 30mm?), so I took a cheapy Chinese 1.25" combo wrench & a 3lb hammer & hammered the open end on the nut, then hammered the wrench to loosen the net! Of course, once it was broken loose I had to hammer the wrench OFF the nut, but this saved me from herniating myself & after all, aren't cheapy Chinese tools made to be abused like this?!?

At least now I can raise my mower more than about a foot!

 

[Birdman253]

What you are referring to as "quasi bearings" are actually called "gray iron bearings." They were very commonly used on disc harrows, one-way plows, and various other implements years ago. As the cost of ball bearings dropped, the use of the gray iron bearings almost disappeared. Over the last few years, a number of manufacturers have started to offer them again, usually as a lower cost alternative. For example, several manufacturers offer the same disc with either gray iron, or ball bearings, and the gray iron units are quite a bit less expensive.

If you take the disc gang totally apart, you will find that the outer caps are running on a cast spool, that in turn has the gang arbor bolt running through it. Remember, this system works ok, but doesn't have the working life of a ball bearing. The grease between the caps, and the spool is all that keeps you from quickly wearing out the cast spools. "This is the main reason that the larger units are strictly ball bearings." With this type of system, be sure to grease thoroughly before starting to work, and then every 3 to 4 hours or so. Also, be sure to grease completely before storing, to eliminate air gaps that can cause condensation during storage. Also, a word to the wise. If you hear squeaking during operation, stop and grease the unit immediately. It indicates that there is no grease in the bearing, and you are running metal to metal.

Hope this helps.

 

[Theowegian]

You might want to consider SHARPENING the blades. I did that on mine, and after sharpening the blades, it did work a lot better.

To sharpen a blade, I left the disc all assembled. I just took a side grinder and had my son rotate each disk gang, slowly. It worked pretty good. Just wear ear plugs and a good set of goggles, too.

 

[Sully2]

I went through the exact same thing a few months ago. Got one nut off with a pipe wrench (by standing on it), but the other... What I discovered was the nuts were just a tiny bit bigger than 1.25" (29 or 30mm?), so I took a cheapy Chinese 1.25" combo wrench & a 3lb hammer & hammered the open end on the nut, then hammered the wrench to loosen the net! Of course, once it was broken loose I had to hammer the wrench OFF the nut, but this saved me from herniating myself & after all, aren't cheapy Chinese tools made to be abused like this?!?

At least now I can raise my mower more than about a foot!

Well..my farmer buddy got back from China 2 days early an gave me a call and I drove it over to his place...and we used it to disj up his "looser" soil in his garden. Real dirt chopping set of discs. He grabbed a 1 5/16 socket with his 3/4 drive set..and it fit perfectly...BUT..my replacement set only had 1 1/4 nuts on them????

Tonight I'll get the frame loose from the discs so I can turn it over and wire brush the "doo-dah" out of the underside of the frame. Couple coats of good paint..and this thing will last me as long as Im alive..

 

[Sully2]

... With this type of system, be sure to grease thoroughly before starting to work, and then every 3 to 4 hours or so. Also, be sure to grease completely before storing, to eliminate air gaps that can cause condensation during storage.

Every 3-4 hours of operation?...Yuck yuck yuck! This set of discs will be lucky to see a TOTAL of 20 hrs of usage the total time I own them.... But greasing for me is no biggie..I never spare the grease on anything

 

[RobJ]

sully,

don't know why folks use not standard stuff. I wanted to sharpen my BH blades on a KK copy, has the hole in the top. The size is 1 11/16". NOT is a standard 3/4 set. At least not in the ones at Northern, HF, etc. The socket at Northern cost $11, I think a whole set at HF costs about $50-$60...ratchet, breaker, etc. But not an 1 11/16". A 1 3/4" would probably have done it.

For the lift pins and such I use a nice 15" Cresent. Can't do without 1-2 of those.

Footnote to self...
Disk gang
gray iron bearings

 

[Sully2]

sully,

don't know why folks use not standard stuff. I wanted to sharpen my BH blades on a KK copy, has the hole in the top. The size is 1 11/16". NOT is a standard 3/4 set. At least not in the ones at Northern, HF, etc. The socket at Northern cost $11, I think a whole set at HF costs about $50-$60...ratchet, breaker, etc. But not an 1 11/16". A 1 3/4" would probably have done it.

For the lift pins and such I use a nice 15" Cresent. Can't do without 1-2 of those.

Footnote to self...
Disk gang
gray iron bearings

I told my buddy I'll buy a cutting torch setup before I buy a 3/4 drive rachet and socket set!...lol. If I cant get it off with a 1/2 drive breaker bar and sockets...then its "get the torch!!"..

OH! BTW...Setting around late last night with a few "coldies"...my farmer buddy and the guy that sold me the set of discs.. ( a close friend of the farmer buddy....thats how I came to buy them) brow beat me into painting the upper FRAME of the discs Kubota orange..and doing everything below the frame black. I kept getting the .."Yeah..but it wont MATCH" line of BS!..lol Finally I gave them the old .."No MAS!! No Mas!."..LOL

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Interesting, same disk pods though. Notice it's a simpler design. Only one piece of bent angle in the whole thing, mine has 4. This would be easier to copy as a home made disk if someone could round up the other parts. Is the smooth round sleeve between disks 2-3 hollow or is that covering something. If you look at the pic below you can see on mine the sleeve or separator can actually be swapped out to one of the greased ends. But if you look closer at the one in the pic it looks like its already been used and looks worn. I remember a couple of mine have not been use.

Nice pics and let me know how id digs. We really have the same set up.

Thanks,
Rob

For future reference, what you are calling a "sleeve" is actually called a "spool".

 

[scott_vt]

Hi Rob,
Nice job on the disc !!! That weight looks like an old baler flywheel ?
The farmer down the road from me gave me a nice 3pt 6' disc for doing some machine work for him. They are nice to have Good luck with your new implement !

 

[Sully2]

Well...making some decent headway. Everything is "de-rusted" ( and even with goggles on..Ive picked enough rust out of my eyes and out of my nose to start selling scrap steel...geeze)..everything primed and primed GOOD...and all new bolts are in their bags. Monday we start painting and re-assembling hardware.

This would have been a terrific week to have done that...every day in the low 90's. Mid 80's this next week but a chance for rain every afternoon..( damm!!!)