Picked up an F-12

[3Lfarms]

The way the shafts the brake handle(s) are mounted on, look like it should be one solid shaft that would actuate both left and right brakes. Except the left brake handle and shaft moves freely, but the right side is rusted up.
Does anyone have any good pics of the handles?
It makes sense to me that the left and right would be separate, otherwise the cable braking system would not work. The levers on the brake rods that the cables attach to are still there, there is just no handle on the right side.

 

[KennyG]

The hand brake model we had was equipped with a handle for each rear wheel if I remember correctly.. I liked our foot brake model much better.

 

[DJ54]

I thought my memory was playing tricks on me, about a single brake lever. Guess I haven't totally lost it. They came standard with a left hand brake handle, the right hand brake handle was an option. Short turn braking was accomplished through the cables from the steering. On the 38-39 models, they had separate foot brakes.

 

[3Lfarms]

So I have been tearing into this F-20 to determine if its worth spending any money on. The transmission and rear end are in good shape, and the clutch seems to be fine. I tore into the engine to see what it needed since this thing obviously hasnt moved under its own power for at least 25 years.
So I pulled the cylinder head and all the valves still move fine and seem tight in their guides. I pulled the pistons out down through the bottoms and the crank journals are still mirror smooth, and the rod bearings look good. The cylinders are almost mirror shiny. No scuffing at all on any of the cylinder walls. Pistons and rings look great. I am now pretty sure this engine was overhauled once not too many hours ago. There is no ridge at the top of the cylinders, and each rod and matching cap each have stake marks to note which hole they go in.
I don’t see any reason at this point to pull the liners, but in reading the service manual, it says the pistons and rods can come out the top or come out the bottom. The problem is, the big end of the rod does not fit through the liner, so how do I reinstall the pistons? I must be overlooking something. The service manual never says how to reinstall the pistons. Do I have to pull the liners, then load the pistons and rods into the liners, then install the liners with the pistons already installed?

I just ordered an engine gasket set, so after cleaning everything up, the engine internals should outlast me with the little use it will see.

 

[KennyG]

I wouldn't pull the liners without a good reason. Can you just put the pistons back in from the bottom? If your ring compressor won't go over the rod big end, you can make a ring compressor with thin sheet metal and a big hose clamp. That's the way we used to put motorcycles back together when we only worked on the top end.

 

[3Lfarms]

I found out that the bottom of the liners is tapered out. The pistons go back in from the bottom by squeezing the rings with my fingers and the taper in the liner compresses the rings the rest of the way as it slides up. It’s kind of neat the the pistons can be removed without even removing the head.
So rather than just pulling the liners, I’m going to fill the water jackets with water and if the liners dont leak into the crankcase, I wont pull them out.
While it is apart, I will lap the valves and clean all of the internals.

Its also pretty neat how the crankshaft is supported only at the front and rear by large ball bearings that are splash oiled. With the pistons removed, the crankshaft spins with almost no friction. The bearings are very smooth running.

 

[3Lfarms]

So the engine went back together fine, and I overhauled the radiator, magneto, governor, and fan. The carburetor is missing the idle jet for some reason, but until I got one I figured it should still run. This weekend was it’s first start. The oil pressure gauge works and oil pressure stays in the white area (out of the red at all RPMs.
Farmall F-20 first time running in 30+ years - YouTube

While waiting on a few parts for the engine, I drained the transmission and pulled all of the covers to inspect everything and seal it all up as best I could. I then refilled it with 6 gallons of 75w-140. Even after carefully sealing everything with gasket dressing, the PTO pulley still leaks. It’s leaked about a teaspoon full of oil in about 3 weeks just sitting, so I guess it isn’t too bad.
I have overhauled the clutch and it is ready to go back in with new bearings, then it should be ready to move under its own power once I get new tires.

Plan is to get it up on blocks and get the wheels off and prep them for new rubber and by spring, be ready to take it for a ride.