PINS

[Bedlam]

I am searching for a site online that has some 1 inch pins for the backhoe. Cant seem to find any by my searches, If it rig=ngs a bell with anyone please let me know
thanks
Allan

 

[Tom_Veatch]

I am searching for a site online that has some 1 inch pins for the backhoe. Cant seem to find any by my searches, If it rig=ngs a bell with anyone please let me know
thanks
Allan

Not sure what kind of pins you're looking for, but you can find a good selection of 1" pins of various types at McMaster-Carr

Enter "pin" in the product search box.

 

[john_bud]

Allan,

I just redid pins and bushings. It's a lot more $$ than you may anticipate. Bushings are REAL spendy when you add them all up together.

I had to make pins as FNH no longer stocks them (well they had 1 but at $295 each, they can ... well, keep it warm - know what I mean?). I went to Metal Express - Home and OnlineMetals.com - Small Quantities Specialist - Online Metal Cutting and Online Metal Ordering. Buy Cold Rolled 4140 rounds. Then you can chamfer one end, drill oil holes, weld on anti-rotate plate or what ever. Cost was about $15 each. They will cut to length, so measure accurately. You can also heat treat them to harden them up more, but I didn't. I would rather the pin wear and replace that. Bushings are a PAIN. If you don't have the tools to do the pins yourself, local machine shop should be able to fix you up, plan on $50-75 each.

Metal Express seemed to be the fastest and lower priced. You may be able to get Cold Rolled 4140 local, check the yellow pages.

 

[mark1]

I went to a cylinder repair shop..they had a bunch of old cylinders with 3/4" piston rods in them, that were "junk"(well to them anyhow) I cut them to the length I needed.drilled for the anchor pin.cleaned and chanfered the ends.
Check around for a similar shop. maybe they have some with 1" piston rods.
(Trouble is my shop has since closed)

 

[markct]

if you are going to fabricate pins you want what is known as pre hard or stressproof rod. its about the toughness of a grade 8 bolt, around 120,000 psi. tough but still drillable and machinable without much trouble. cold rolled steel isnt tough enough for many applications and it wears alot faster. at work we make pins from stressproof all the time, ordered it from mcmaster carr. cold roll often wears or bends under some applications. i used to make them cold roll sometimes but have found its usualy worth the extra to get stressproof and be done with it.

 

[MossRoad]

What about 1" grade 8 bolts? A 12" bolt costs about $12.00 and has about 8" of non-threaded area on it. That's what I'm using on my backhoe project.

 

[JerryG]

I have used some of those hardened hitch pins with the red coating on the handle when in a bind. Just cut the head off and you are ready to go.

 

[Bedlam]

Thanks for the idea of the bolt and the ram rod. I would have easier acces to the bolt. Im not actually sure if I will need the pin, or a bushing. I am not sure if the woods 750 would have a bushing or not. But when I get into it ill see. thanks again....
Al

 

[schmism]

I have used some of those hardened hitch pins with the red coating on the handle when in a bind. Just cut the head off and you are ready to go.

when you first mentioned pins this (what Jerry is talking about) came to my mind... i thought...i just bought 8" long 1" pins (with red handles) at the local rural king for like $6 (on sale) should be hardened (or no worse than a bolt) cut the handle off and your good to go.

 

[3RRL]

Those hitch pins mentioned should work, but I don't think they are hardened. If they will work for you, heck, you might not need to cut the handles off if they don't get in the way.
I have used ejector pins as used in the mold making trade. They are surface nitrided for a super hardness of way over 65 RC and inside they are about 36RC. They are usually about .0005" to .001" undersized. Get a length (depending how many you want to make) and cut them off with an abrasive wheel and drill holes in the ends for lynch pins or cotter pins. You will have to grind off the Nitride at the spot you want to drill first. Another method is to grind a groove around the OD and use a retainer clip.
Here is a link to the DME Co which supplies the mold making trade. There are many other suppliers.
Ejector Pin

 

[dfkrug]

I would rather the pin wear and replace that. Bushings are a PAIN.

This is the way I am now going. Softer pins may extend the life of the
bushings. This is esp important if the bushings are welded in, rather than
being inserts.

When I built my CADDigger 10y ago, I used mechanical structural tubing
(1.00" ID with 1/2" walls) and chrome plated 63/64" rod I found at my local
steel surplus supplier. The critical joints used nylon bushngs.

Since moving on to Prairie Dog backhoes (Woods 7500 clone), I am now
working with 25 mm chome plated steel pins, drilled and grooved for
grease. The critical joints DO have replaceable bushing inserts, but I
prefer to replace the pins, which are easy and cheap. The factory pins
are only about $15 or so. One guy I sold a b/h to has broken 2 pins
at the grease groove, but I think he is running over 3000psi. This was the
bucket pivot at the end of the dipper stick. The newer Prairie Dogs
now use 1 1/8 pins in some places. I read somewhere that chome
plating can cause embrittlement of the substrate. That was info related
to the hot rod guys who love to chrome plate suspension components.
Not good for strength.

Now when I custom make pins, I buy 1" mild steel rod (A36?) at the
steel store. No grease grooves. Mechanical tubing is very hard to find,
however. Sometimes I use shedule 40 pipe with 1" ID and ream them.