Pioneer fittings

[Bradbilt]

Please excuse the dumb question.

I am running hoses from my rear hydraulics up to the front of the loader to make my snow plow power angle.

Today I went to Tractor supply and bought a bunch of pioneer quick connect fittings.
I now have a "problem"....

The fitting on the back of my tractor(the female ends) I can just push the male ends in and they couple. To uncouple I just pull on the hose.

NOW, with the fittings I bought from TSC I have to pull the collar back on the female coupler to connect and disconnect them.
Is there a different coupler that I can get to just allow me to push/pull to connect/disconnect?


BTW my fittings on the rear of the tractor have a "square" pin inside the coupler, the TCS fitting have a round ball. Is that the difference?

The "tip" on this mall connector is what my tractor has in the female connector and that is the one that just push/pulls
Pioneer 1/2 in. Standard ISO Tip, 3/4 In., 16 ORB, Fits All Current Models, Poppet - For Life Out Here



The couplers I bought have this style "ball" on the male and female couplers
Pioneer Quick Coupling, 1/2 in. Single Acting Sleeve Set - For Life Out Here

 

[murphy1244]

Down load and check this chart.Quick Disconnects > Discount Hydraulic Hose.com

 

[Bradbilt]

that doesnt really help me any

 

[murphy1244]

that doesnt really help me any

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/qd_sizechart.pdf
Try this then
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/qd_sizechart.pdf

 

[Bradbilt]

I can see the charts and the picture. But that still doesnt answer my question how the couple or uncouple

 

[murphy1244]

NOW, with the fittings I bought from TSC I have to pull the collar back on the female coupler to connect and disconnect them.

This is the way they are supposed to work not just give them a yank and they come free.
You have a miss match if they are not locking.

 

[Bradbilt]

NOW, with the fittings I bought from TSC I have to pull the collar back on the female coupler to connect and disconnect them.

This is the way they are supposed to work not just give them a yank and they come free.
You have a miss match if they are not locking.

ANY farm tractor I have ever run you do NOT pull the collar back. In fact the collar is incased in the mount so there is NO WAY you could even do that even if you wanted to.

And my 260 is no different. They are incased in a plastic mount. And the break away mount I bough from TSC incases the couples so you can NOT access the collar

 

[Bradbilt]

They are designed that way so if they get snagged or the hoses forget to be disconnected then it unplugs itself and does NOT destroy the hose or the equipment

 

[s219]

All of mine have a collar that needs to be pulled back. There are several different types of quick disconnects.

 

[Bradbilt]

So, can anyone who KNOWS, please post me in the right direction

 

[s219]

They are designed that way so if they get snagged or the hoses forget to be disconnected then it unplugs itself and does NOT destroy the hose or the equipment

That is a breakaway connector, intended for tow-behind implements. That is not the same as a quick-disconnect, though they sort of do the same thing.

 

[murphy1244]

So, can anyone who KNOWS, please post me in the right direction

I'm sorry I even posted.:confused2:

 

[aczlan]

So, as I understand it, they mount in the bracket, but you have to manually pull it out to let the male qd go in?
It sounds like your tractor has poppet quick connects and you purchased ball (or AG) quick connects. They should interchange just fine.

I have purchased several quick connects from TSC and they have all been breakaway fittings (and they may have been labeled that way).

Sometimes they call those quick connects 2 way or push/pull fittings.
What was the item number for the ones you got from TSC?

Here are mine mounted on the big Kubota:
Looks like I will need to add the picture from my computer.

Aaron Z

 

[KubotaToy]

First off, I am no expert. Several of my older John Deere Tractors I have owned had release levers on the remote couplers which made push pull releasing a breeze (and yes, they were inside a bracket such that you could not reach the coupler sleeve) . A friends new JD tractor does not have pressure release levers (cost savings I am sure). Based on his experience, you need to be perfectly lined up and push really hard and then pull real straight back to disconnect under pressure. The ball and ISO tip poppet styles should be interchangeable but I have had as much luck teaching my pigs to fly as getting them to work together, I always make the effort to buy the exact same coupler when I get new implements, even to the point of taking one off the tractor to take it with me. I cannot find one of my JD manuals on line but here is a page from one that is similar. May not be anything close to what you are experiencing but I thought I would give a try to help.

You might post some pictures of your couplers for us to see what you have and are dealing with.

Below is from one of my hydraulic manuals.

Pin-lock couplings, allow push-to-connect joining using only one hand because the outer sleeve does not need to be retracted to make a connection. In this design, pins are mounted around the socket body ID in a truncated-cone-shaped formation. Pushing the plug into the socket moves pins back and outward, due to a ramp on the plug. Shear across pins locks the plug into the socket. Retracting the springloaded sleeve, which forces the pins back out of the locking groove, releases the plug from the socket.

Ball-lock is the most common design and has the widest range of applications. A group of balls is positioned in holes located around the ID of the socket body. These holes normally are tapered or stepped to reduce their diameter at the socket body ID, so the balls do not fall into the cavity vacated by the plug when the coupling is disconnected. A spring-loaded sleeve around the socket body's OD forces balls toward the socket body ID. To connect the plug, the sleeve is pushed back, which opens clearance so the balls are free to move outward. Once the plug is in place, releasing the sleeve forces the balls inward against a locking groove on the OD of the plug. To disconnect, pushing the sleeve back provides the balls with clearance to move outward and allow the plug to be removed.

 

[Tx Jim]

Please excuse the dumb question.

I am running hoses from my rear hydraulics up to the front of the loader to make my snow plow power angle.

Today I went to Tractor supply and bought a bunch of pioneer quick connect fittings.
I now have a "problem"....

The fitting on the back of my tractor(the female ends) I can just push the male ends in and they couple. To uncouple I just pull on the hose.

NOW, with the fittings I bought from TSC I have to pull the collar back on the female coupler to connect and disconnect them.
Is there a different coupler that I can get to just allow me to push/pull to connect/disconnect?

IMHO this "double acting" coupler is what you need.

 

[Bradbilt]

That is a breakaway connector, intended for tow-behind implements. That is not the same as a quick-disconnect, though they sort of do the same thing.

Ok. and they plug into each other.

So, as I understand it, they mount in the bracket, but you have to manually pull it out to let the male qd go in?
It sounds like your tractor has poppet quick connects and you purchased ball (or AG) quick connects. They should interchange just fine.

Correct. There is no access to the collar. You just pus the attaching fitting in or pull them apart.


I have purchased several quick connects from TSC and they have all been breakaway fittings (and they may have been labeled that way).

I will have to look closer, But I didn't see any that said they were breakaway or not.

Sometimes they call those quick connects 2 way or push/pull fittings.
What was the item number for the ones you got from TSC?

#1824203 is the pair(one male one female) I also bought #1824457(male ends only)

Here are mine mounted on the big Kubota:
Looks like I will need to add the picture from my computer.

Aaron Z

thanks for the insite

First off, I am no expert. Several of my older John Deere Tractors I have owned had release levers on the remote couplers which made push pull releasing a breeze (and yes, they were inside a bracket such that you could not reach the coupler sleeve) . A friends new JD tractor does not have pressure release levers (cost savings I am sure). Based on his experience, you need to be perfectly lined up and push really hard and then pull real straight back to disconnect under pressure. The ball and ISO tip poppet styles should be interchangeable but I have had as much luck teaching my pigs to fly as getting them to work together, I always make the effort to buy the exact same coupler when I get new implements, even to the point of taking one off the tractor to take it with me. I cannot find one of my JD manuals on line but here is a page from one that is similar. May not be anything close to what you are experiencing but I thought I would give a try to help.

You might post some pictures of your couplers for us to see what you have and are dealing with.

Below is from one of my hydraulic manuals.

Pin-lock couplings, allow push-to-connect joining using only one hand because the outer sleeve does not need to be retracted to make a connection. In this design, pins are mounted around the socket body ID in a truncated-cone-shaped formation. Pushing the plug into the socket moves pins back and outward, due to a ramp on the plug. Shear across pins locks the plug into the socket. Retracting the springloaded sleeve, which forces the pins back out of the locking groove, releases the plug from the socket.

Ball-lock is the most common design and has the widest range of applications. A group of balls is positioned in holes located around the ID of the socket body. These holes normally are tapered or stepped to reduce their diameter at the socket body ID, so the balls do not fall into the cavity vacated by the plug when the coupling is disconnected. A spring-loaded sleeve around the socket body's OD forces balls toward the socket body ID. To connect the plug, the sleeve is pushed back, which opens clearance so the balls are free to move outward. Once the plug is in place, releasing the sleeve forces the balls inward against a locking groove on the OD of the plug. To disconnect, pushing the sleeve back provides the balls with clearance to move outward and allow the plug to be removed.

IMHO this "double acting" coupler is what you need.

Yes each manufacture had their own fittings up until the late 80s/early 90s. Deere had theirs, IH had theirs and so on. Then they FINALY got on the same page and all use the "pioneer" fittings

 

[Bradbilt]

It appears that the fittings I got from TSC are not I.S.O. 5675 agricultural standard. I will have to return them and see If I can get the ISO ones

 

[Creamer]

I am glad you asked the question because I learned something by reading this thread. I knew the manufacturers had commonized on the Pioneer style but I was not aware that there were fittings that you could just pull and they would pop out (other than a hard pull such as an implement unhitching itself and they give for hose protection). IMHO Deere needed to change as I took too many oil baths from the late 70s 30 series connectors they had. IH had their own which worked great. I believe Case, Massey, and Oliver/White all used Pioneer.

 

[Tx Jim]

I believe Case, Massey, and Oliver/White all used Pioneer.

J I Case didn't always use ISO couplings. I remember when they had their own style that would fit nothing else but J I Case