Piot Bearing Puller Tool

   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Bearing pressed in flywheel or end of crankshaft? Seems in my experience the bearings/bushings in the end of the crankshaft have looser tolerances than the bearings pressed in the flywheel.

I may give it a shot before Saturday, have a clutch alignment tool that came with the kit, unfortunately, it is plastic with a ring on the non clutch disk end. Will have to trim that off before striking with a hammer. The splines on the alignment tool should help prevent grease from escaping. Won't cost anything but a little grease and time, no downside in trying. Will be pleasantly surprised if it pops out.

Thanks,
Q
 
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   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool #12  
FWIW, the little two-prong puller worked just fine on my '95 ranger. The one thing I will remember the most about replacing the slave cylinder is that it took bloody forever for the air to bleed out of it.
 
   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool #13  
FWIW, I replaced a pilot bearing in a 66 year old 1 1/2T truck just a few months ago. I used the hydraulic method as mentioned. I used a clutch alignment tool that came with different size screw on tips (for different sized bearings). Used a tip that just fit inside the bearing. Filled with grease, insert tool, whack with hammer, repeat. After 3 whacks it came out. Not bad for being in there that long. I was going to rent the puller but last person that rented it never returned it according to the manager. Figured I'd give the grease method a shot and it worked very well.

yup.. something about forcing a thick non compressable material with a interference fit piston into a cavity that has a moveable section. Physics says something is gonna give. :) It's why hyds work.... :)

It's why you can crack the corner out of an engine block with a bolt and a few drops of water in a blind hole... :(
 
   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool #14  
I may give it a shot before Saturday, have a clutch alignment tool that came with the kit, unfortunately, it is plastic with a ring on the non clutch disk end. Will have to trim that off before striking with a hammer. The splines on the alignment tool should help prevent grease from escaping. Won't cost anything but a little grease and time, no downside in trying. Will be pleasantly surprised if it pops out.

Thanks,
Q

A trick you can do in case you can't find a perfect fit metal rod or if your sanded dowel isn't perfect, is to use a multi oring kit and find an oring that fits the ID of the bore VERY well.. ( interference fit, but not so much that it bows in ). I add a bit of gear oil to take up voids, then grease. stiff wheel bearing stuff.. then the oring, then the plunger.. a piece of rubber inner tube ( disc shaped ) can be cut as well. This minimizes grease escape by plunger. Lotsa tricks.. you can make up a few thousanths by wrapping some wide masking tape around the plunger and folding the excess to the bottom...

pretreating the bearings / bushing with a penetrant helps as the thin oil wicks in via capilary action, thus when the pressure hits it... -SOMETHING- has to move...

Last tip. cut a piece of cardboard that your plunger will go thru.. use it as a splatter shield. ;) when you whack the plunger.. the grease will go somewhere if it can.. and if the plunger is not a perfect fit, a ribbon or streamer of grease the size of a shoelace can zoom out at scarry speed. ;)
 
   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool #15  
Bearing pressed in flywheel or end of crankshaft? Seems in my experience the bearings/bushings in the end of the crankshaft have looser tolerances than the bearings pressed in the flywheel.

I may give it a shot before Saturday, have a clutch alignment tool that came with the kit, unfortunately, it is plastic with a ring on the non clutch disk end. Will have to trim that off before striking with a hammer. The splines on the alignment tool should help prevent grease from escaping. Won't cost anything but a little grease and time, no downside in trying. Will be pleasantly surprised if it pops out.

Thanks,
Q

My pilot bearing was pressed in the crankshaft, not the flywheel. The clutch alignment tool I have is all metal. I think the entire tool with several size adapters was about $20-25 at auto parts store.
 
   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Another design question on the interior mounted slave, the bleed fitting is located on the side of the unit, hard to remove all the air. Prefilling with fluid in an inverted position and bleeding several times usually helps with this procedure. Rangers with this design are notoriously difficult to bleed.

Q
FWIW, the little two-prong puller worked just fine on my '95 ranger. The one thing I will remember the most about replacing the slave cylinder is that it took bloody forever for the air to bleed out of it.
 
   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Pilot bearing is out, grease method didn't budge it. Had to use the blind hole bearing puller, required quite a few taps from the slide hammer to get it moving.

Thanks,
Q
 
   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool #18  
The grease trick doesn't always work, lol. I had a pilot bearing that was missing the inner seal. Guess the person who put it in figured it would be best to put that side in so there would be less chance of water getting to the bearing and the grease getting on the surface of the flywheel. I pumped it full of grease, put a bold in the pilot hole and with one big whack I got covered in grease and anything else that was in the bearing. Blew the outer seal right off like a hot knife cutting through butter. After cleaning up I made the trip to Autozone to borrow their puller. So, like others said, wear glasses and old stuff you don't care about.
 
   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool
  • Thread Starter
#19  
New pilot bearing in, was a tight fit, clearance must be in the .005 range. I even polished the new pilot bearing, lubed it for driving and put in in the freezer overnight. Bearing was quite a few years old, actually made in USA.

Had my son start the install, he got it cocked a bit, required some careful tapping to square it in the bore, access was at an odd angle, looks pretty square now, installed to approx. depth of previous bearing, not quite flush with the flywheel.

New clutch disc on, pressure plate installed, awaiting final torque tomorrow. Hope to get this wrapped up soon. I can tell I'm getting old(er), losing my enthusiasm for this type of work. When I was in my teens/early twenties, couldn't get enough wrenching. My son is enthusiastic, loves to wrench, pretty good mechanic for a modern 19 yo, he's not afraid to tear into anything, getting it back together, sometimes requires some help.

Love to razz him while working, he is easy to get going, enjoy his company, think he feels the same, good, quality father/son time.

Thanks,
Q
 
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   / Piot Bearing Puller Tool
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Trans back in the truck, was a bit of a wrestling match, hard to get the trans lined up to match the angle of the engine. Plus this trans is particularly long, thankfully not very heavy, just awkward.

Due to the layout of bottom side of the truck, hard to get a good eye on the engine and trans to determine the proper angle to stab the tranny forward, also a very deep bellhousing.

Input shaft did not want to go into the pilot bearing, kept telling my son he installed the clutch disc backwards just to needle him, lot's of fun with that.

Hope to get back on it tomorrow, lots of rain today.

Thanks,
Q
 

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