planning rear hydraulics

[/pine]

You can NOT Tee those lines from the manifold to the new valve.

OK

Pipe straight to the T&T valve and come of the PBYD of that valve for any additional remotes...

is there a reason not to hard pipe it from the manifold to the valve? or should I use a short length of hose to dampen any shock/vibration issues?

 

[kennyd]

OK

Pipe straight to the T&T valve and come of the PBYD of that valve for any additional remotes...

is there a reason not to hard pipe it from the manifold to the valve? or should I use a short length of hose to dampen any shock/vibration issues?

Correct, the new valve and ant additional valves (like on a logsplitter) need to be in series, The only acceptable place for a Tee is on the low pressure tank lines. Hydraulic fluid, like electricity will take the "path of least resistance", so if you Tee the high pressure lines fluid will just go through the other way.

Hard piping is fine, but not an easy job-it's also expensive. The steel pipe used for hydraulics is not easily bent into small places like where your manifold lives up to the new valve.

 

[/pine]

Thanks for taking the time to explain things...

Is the (hydraulics) hard piping on a tractor not the same or similar to (SAE) brake lines ?

according to the instruction sheet (see post #6) for the outlet manifold it says the inlet/outlet ports are 1/4 18NPSF what size steel pipe would that be? I can work with 3/8 brake line fairly well...

Thanks again

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for taking the time to explain things...

Is the (hydraulics) hard piping on a tractor not the same or similar to (SAE) brake lines ?

according to the instruction sheet (see post #6) for the outlet manifold it says the inlet/outlet ports are 1/4 18NPSF what size steel pipe would that be? I can work with 3/8 brake line fairly well...

Thanks again

Are you thinking that you would use brake line material. Not quite the same, hydraulics are thousands of pounds of pressure. If you were to use brake lines, they would explode.

 

[/pine]

Are you thinking that you would use brake line material

Actually I was just relating the process of bending and (double) flaring...

Is hydraulic tubing that much harder to work with than steel brake lines?

What size tubing would be standard to connect to the ports mentioned ( 1/4 18 npsf) ?

 

[kennyd]

Actually I was just relating the process of bending and (double) flaring...

Is hydraulic tubing that much harder to work with than steel brake lines?

What size tubing would be standard to connect to the ports mentioned ( 1/4 18 npsf) ?

Here are some older posts on the same issue:

Hard lines. - TractorByNet.com

Hydraulic tubing - TractorByNet.com

 

[J_J]

Some of the steel lines used for brake lines could be high pressure, but most people would not know the difference. If you don't know the difference, then get the steel line from qualified places. Then you have Stainless steel lines. You might see brake line pressure from about 800 psi to about 2000 psi. Who's to know.

 

[/pine]

...Some of the steel lines used for brake lines could be high pressure...

most standard automotive tubing is seamed where "hydraulic" tubing is not...

I'm curious if my hand held benders will work with the thicker walled seamless tubing?

note: on the Kubota instruction sheet for the outlet manifold..it states 1/4 18NPSF...
1/4 seems small? what size tubing/hose will best to use?