Planting an orchard - what to do to improve the soil?

Jstpssng · May 24, 2013

dirtyoldman said:
Update - we are having a ahrd time getting trees. I've been holding off planting because I didn't have water in yet. Got the water lines run last night, but can't find trees now. Looks like we'll have to wait until fall. Also, I didn't want the power company to see me planting trees BEFORE they put their lines in. The power lines go almost right over one row of trees.

The orchard is planted in my old bean field, next to my new house. It was worked last year. I think I am just going to call it good at digging a hole and planting.

Good luck!

dave1949 · May 24, 2013

dirtyoldman said:
Update - we are having a ahrd time getting trees. I've been holding off planting because I didn't have water in yet. Got the water lines run last night, but can't find trees now. Looks like we'll have to wait until fall. Also, I didn't want the power company to see me planting trees BEFORE they put their lines in. The power lines go almost right over one row of trees.

The orchard is planted in my old bean field, next to my new house. It was worked last year. I think I am just going to call it good at digging a hole and planting.

Actually, that would give you time to get a soils test, layout the rows, make any soil amendments needed in the planting locations (holes). This fall it would make your planting easier and more likely to get your trees off to a good start. I think it is sort of like house painting, without good prep work, it is hard to get the best results.

In the meantime, if the bean field is barren of weeds, or very sparse, you could transplant a few tree seedlings from around your lot, any kind should do, into the former soybean field. This would test for any herbicide residues that could stunt the fruit trees.

forgeblast · May 25, 2013

Gives you time to if deer are around also get some fencing it, and make sure your have something to protect the trunks from winter rabbits. Also limb spreaders are good to get to make sure the trees branches grow out the way you want them to.

teejk · May 26, 2013

forgeblast said:
Gives you time to if deer are around also get some fencing it, and make sure your have something to protect the trunks from winter rabbits. Also limb spreaders are good to get to make sure the trees branches grow out the way you want them to.

It's been awhile since I had fruit trees but curious about "limb spreaders". I used to "train" the trees via pruning. As for deer fencing, I helped a friend enclose a 100x65 area (8' high fencing) to prevent deer damage. He since added chicken wire at the bottom for the rabbits. Mice and stuff will also be a problem but I think that is a matter of keeping the grass short. But anyway, with that enclosure, I was wondering whether grapes are compatible with fruit trees. That 100' stretch of wire fencing is quite frankly pretty ugly and I was thinking about grapes or hops or something that needs the wire to climb.

Jstpssng · May 26, 2013

teejk said:
It's been awhile since I had fruit trees but curious about "limb spreaders". I used to "train" the trees via pruning. As for deer fencing, I helped a friend enclose a 100x65 area (8' high fencing) to prevent deer damage. He since added chicken wire at the bottom for the rabbits. Mice and stuff will also be a problem but I think that is a matter of keeping the grass short. But anyway, with that enclosure, I was wondering whether grapes are compatible with fruit trees. That 100' stretch of wire fencing is quite frankly pretty ugly and I was thinking about grapes or hops or something that needs the wire to climb.

On new plantings we simply put clothespins on the main stem to train the buds to limb out... it only takes a couple weeks of growing for them to take the shape you train it to.. on the trees I'm doing now it's more restorative work and I tie the sprout which I'm trying to train off to a lower limb... thanks for reminding me, I need to order some tie material for summer pruning next month.

On true dwarf trees they are tied to a trellis, and pruned so that everything besides the main stem is new wood every few years... kind of like the grapevines you mention.
Mice are indeed a problem, but as you mention keeping the grass short helps, also cleaning up the drops so they have nothing to feed on.

Tree guards Rainbow Professional LTD White Spiral Tree Guards, 24 inch
are a worthwhile investment, though they do recommend taking them off in summer to reduce the chances of tree borer.
If mice do get the trees they can still be saved... I spent two weeks one spring doing "bridge grafts" to bypass the mouse damage.