Planting an orchard - what to do to improve the soil?

[hslogger]

You might want to begin with a couple soil samples taken to your local ag product supplier. Different species do well of course in different soil types. Before you start ripping ground up for a full blown orchard investment, soil samples and some commercial advice should be considered.
Do you have a local USDA soils and water conservation district? It may be you will end up incorporating some amendments before tillage or during. It will save you a lot of headache down the road.

 

[Jstpssng]

I think it is the Guerney Bros. catalog that said "Don't put a $20 tree in a $5 hole." There may have been some inflation since then.

Oh, you mean my old landscaping boss plagiarized the statement?

 

[teejk]

Oh, you mean my old landscaping boss plagiarized the statement?

Inflation...used to be a lower ratio (like a $5 tree in a $1 hole). Bareroot stock 18" hole 12" deep is the rule I think. I always mixed peat moss into the fill soil to give the roots a chance to establish. Conventional wisdom was not to add fertilizer when planting (you want to encourage root growth before leaf growth) but I guess the growers now sell packs of slow release fertilizer that go in the hole. Other than that, I'll agree that crappy soil should not be a problem. Those roots will find a way to get water and food. If you bought semi-dwarf trees remember to keep the graft bud above the soil line otherwise I guess it will revert to a standard size tree. And finally, don't over water.

I want to try to grow some stuff in our new location (essentially a sand/gravel pit) but last night we had 6 deer and 18 rabbits at the bird feeders 10' from the patio door. So for me fencing would be step 1.

 

[RickB]

The importance of a soil test cannot be overstated. Get the soil tested and build your plan around the results.

 

[TomSeller]

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Next tip, make sure you get only non grafted saplings. Grafted ones are OK but you will loose more to transplant and long term life is not all that good.

What do you mean by "non grafted saplings"? Plant rootstock and graft after planting? Or did you mean non stooled seedlings that would have a tap root?

 

[greasemonkeyok]

Don't know who is correct, but there is a school of thought that amending the soil in a hole under a tree creates a "container" for the root ball, which prevents the roots from fully expanding out. Counter-intuitive to what some say.

As others have said, soil test and consultation with the extersion service in your area just might save you a lot of headaches. You don't say where you are, but lots of universities have educational programs for the public.

 

[dave1949]

Oh, you mean my old landscaping boss plagiarized the statement?

Well, I don't know where it originated, but it does get the idea across. I guess the main thing about the hole is to not cram the roots into a small space, dig a roomy enough hole.

 

[Jstpssng]

Well, I don't know where it originated, but it does get the idea across. I guess the main thing about the hole is to not cram the roots into a small space, dig a roomy enough hole.

I meant that as a tongue-in-cheek comment, I don't think anyone can truly lay claim for the phrase.

Don't know who is correct, but there is a school of thought that amending the soil in a hole under a tree creates a "container" for the root ball, which prevents the roots from fully expanding out. Counter-intuitive to what some say.

As others have said, soil test and consultation with the extersion service in your area just might save you a lot of headaches. You don't say where you are, but lots of universities have educational programs for the public.

There is probably some truth to that... but at least a 20 dollar hole gives the tree a chance to get established and once it has a good root system it has the vigor to send roots into that unprepared soil. Generally an orchard is planted in an existing field; or in a newly stumped area. Either way the ground has been worked and loosened up at some point.


No word from the OP lately though... hopefully he found some suggestions valuable.

 

[greasemonkeyok]

There is probably some truth to that... but at least a 20 dollar hole gives the tree a chance to get established and once it has a good root system it has the vigor to send roots into that unprepared soil. Generally an orchard is planted in an existing field; or in a newly stumped area. Either way the ground has been worked and loosened up at some point.

Digging a $20 hole had always been "common sense" to me, until the county extension agent told me why our trees were doing poorly. I really don't know which theory is correct, and the county extension agent's theory may have more application in Oklahoma's clay soils.

 

[dave1949]

Digging a $20 hole had always been "common sense" to me, until the county extension agent told me why our trees were doing poorly. I really don't know which theory is correct, and the county extension agent's theory may have more application in Oklahoma's clay soils.

The OP did say he was going to dig a continuous trench for each row of trees. Somebody else said that was a good idea. So, the OP shouldn't really need to worry about the "container" effect if he trenches.

I have planted container-grown shrubs in "cheap" holes. Some never do extend their roots into the surrounding soil. One I remember well struggled for a couple years, got ugly as time went along, so I dug it up. The roots were a pathetic little misshapen clump. It actually started dying the day I planted it. :laughing: