rsallen
Platinum Member
This is way cool. I was thinking this year about lining some plastic in the snow chute.
I settled for epoxy.
Next year.
I settled for epoxy.
Next year.
Plastic liner in snowblower impeller housing
- Thread starter Mercmaniac
- Start date
- Views: 35298
bumperm
Veteran Member
Mike,
No, I tried the metal brake first but it didn't work all that well. The heat gun is all you'll need. I made the bends freehand outside the chute. Made all four, but was first concerned about the rear corners. The UHMW wants to cool reasonably slowly to avoid internal stresses, though this is probably not critical in this app., so I held each bend for a few minutes to be sure when relaxed it would stay at 90*.
Being as the bottom of the chute was not at right angles, I used a cardboard pattern for that end to get things right. On the deflector sides, I used a paper pattern on the outside and rubbed against it with a lumber crayon to transfer the image.
bumper
bumper
No, I tried the metal brake first but it didn't work all that well. The heat gun is all you'll need. I made the bends freehand outside the chute. Made all four, but was first concerned about the rear corners. The UHMW wants to cool reasonably slowly to avoid internal stresses, though this is probably not critical in this app., so I held each bend for a few minutes to be sure when relaxed it would stay at 90*.
Being as the bottom of the chute was not at right angles, I used a cardboard pattern for that end to get things right. On the deflector sides, I used a paper pattern on the outside and rubbed against it with a lumber crayon to transfer the image.
bumper
bumper
GPintheMitten
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 3,291
- Location
- Flushing, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 with BH65 backhoe, Ford 2N
Where did you get your uhmw?
bumperm
Veteran Member
I bought the UHMW PE through Amazon: UHMW Polyethylene Plastic Sheet 1/8" x 24" x 48" - White: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
It's sold by Online Metal Supply. They of course sell in a number of thicknesses and sizes. I bought two sheets, 1/8" thick and 24" X 48" size. I knew I would not need that much - - it's good to have extra on hand.
BTW, on my blower I barely had room for two 1/8" side sheets on he deflector, so measure first. 1/16" would be just fine there as there's not a lot of wear at the sides. I was going to line the impeller housing as well, but the 1/8" thick sheet is just hair too thick.
bumper
It's sold by Online Metal Supply. They of course sell in a number of thicknesses and sizes. I bought two sheets, 1/8" thick and 24" X 48" size. I knew I would not need that much - - it's good to have extra on hand.
BTW, on my blower I barely had room for two 1/8" side sheets on he deflector, so measure first. 1/16" would be just fine there as there's not a lot of wear at the sides. I was going to line the impeller housing as well, but the 1/8" thick sheet is just hair too thick.
bumper
bumperm
Veteran Member
Thanks for the compliments.
One thing I forgot to mention. For cutting the radius arc for the deflector adjustment (mine is hydraulic BTW), I could have set it up on the mill and used an index table to make the cut. The set-up would take much more time than the work! So I got "lazy" and tried to do it free hand with an appropriate end mill in my drill press - - on scrap first. Good thing, no way was that going to work with anything but a small end mill cutter, and even that wanted to jump and pull off to the side. Using a small end mill did make the center slot - carefully. The I used a half round rasp, with the UHMW in a vice, to open up the slot. A jig saw, which I don't have, would have been the tool of choice for making the slot.
Tried a Dremel tool with various cutters - - no joy, the high speed only wanted to melt the UHMW and clog up the cutter, sanding head or grind stone. UHMW does trim and shape nicely on a bench grinder and cuts well using common woodworking tools (table saw, band saw etc.)
bumper
One thing I forgot to mention. For cutting the radius arc for the deflector adjustment (mine is hydraulic BTW), I could have set it up on the mill and used an index table to make the cut. The set-up would take much more time than the work! So I got "lazy" and tried to do it free hand with an appropriate end mill in my drill press - - on scrap first. Good thing, no way was that going to work with anything but a small end mill cutter, and even that wanted to jump and pull off to the side. Using a small end mill did make the center slot - carefully. The I used a half round rasp, with the UHMW in a vice, to open up the slot. A jig saw, which I don't have, would have been the tool of choice for making the slot.
Tried a Dremel tool with various cutters - - no joy, the high speed only wanted to melt the UHMW and clog up the cutter, sanding head or grind stone. UHMW does trim and shape nicely on a bench grinder and cuts well using common woodworking tools (table saw, band saw etc.)
bumper
I have a 12" square sheet of 3/16" uhmw PE that I used to make shims for my blower chute where it lays on the blower body and last night I sacrificed a small piece to try bending it. I cut a straight line in it with a horizontal band saw about 1/16" deep. Then I put it in a vise and heated along the line with a map gas torch and bent it with my fingers and it worked great. I had no idea that it could be bent so easily.
I had good luck cutting a slot in the material with a fairly coarse carbide cutting bit in a high speed die grinder. It's the type that you would use to smooth the castings in the cylinder heads of an engine. For smoothing the edges I use a belt sander with 80 grit paper.
Here's the shims that I made for the chute at the bottom of the following page
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/284288-47-snowblower-question.html
Mike.
I had good luck cutting a slot in the material with a fairly coarse carbide cutting bit in a high speed die grinder. It's the type that you would use to smooth the castings in the cylinder heads of an engine. For smoothing the edges I use a belt sander with 80 grit paper.
Here's the shims that I made for the chute at the bottom of the following page
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/284288-47-snowblower-question.html
Mike.
Last edited:
bumperm
Veteran Member
Mike,
Good application!
I read about slotting thicker UHMW to facilitate bends. Typically cutting slots or grooves on the inside of the bend, several for larger radius bends etc. as one might do when steaming and bending thicker wood plank. Haven't tried it on UHMW, but it makes sense.
bumper
Good application!
I read about slotting thicker UHMW to facilitate bends. Typically cutting slots or grooves on the inside of the bend, several for larger radius bends etc. as one might do when steaming and bending thicker wood plank. Haven't tried it on UHMW, but it makes sense.
bumper
bumperm
Veteran Member
For sure . . . but there's no need for that on thin UHMW, like the 1/8" I used to line the blower chute. To keep the bends straight, I used a square to draw a line on each bend center with a felt tip. Then, when heating with the heat gun and bending by hand, it's simple to "sight down" the marked line to insure the bend is on center. With anything much thicker than that, say quarter inch on up, and especially if a tight corner is required, then I'll be cutting grooves on the table saw:thumbsup:.
bumper
