Please help me repair this

[oldboyscout]

This is my pathetic little log splitter. The wedge which was poorly welded to the tubes broke free. I know there's no good way to weld it there, so I'm looking for suggestions on fixing it. Thanks!

 

[CBW1999]

Northern tools sells a bolt on anchor block that can be welded. Not too expensive but you would need to modify your splitter a little to get it to fit. This will help support the wedge and transfer energy over a larger area. I would think that you may even be able to bot it on the flat bar below the tubes.

If you weld the existing one it will fail again- without a backing plate or extension on the back, it will put all the force on the small welded area

 

[easygo]

I would try to weld another 1/2-3/4" thick piece of plate or flat bar to the bottom of the wedge so it extends down below the two pipes and brace it on the bottom. The "extension" should be ground down to a deep "v" notch and welded to the wedge with a good many passes taking care not to overheat the wedge and make it loose the hard edge. Also weld between pipes just like the original and then lay a couple of 1/4-3/8 plates flat on the pipe and bump up against the wedge and weld on for some top strength . I would clean all the metal well with a wire wheel and use 7018 electrode for maximum strength.

 

[oldboyscout]

I was also thinking about reversing the wedge to the piston end, letting the splits stay at the rail rather than getting pushed off. Not sure if that makes the repair any easier, or more or less work while splitting in general.

 

[dstig1]

Mount the wedge to the flat side of a piece of C-channel that fits over the sides of the tubes. Weld as much area as you can across and down the channel. Bevel the leading edge of the channel so it doesn't catch stuff.

My $0.02..

 

[hosspuller]

Doesn't look like there was enough weld penetration between the wedge and tubes. If the tubes are up to the total force, then proper welding and placement of the wedge will work.

 

[20 20]

that could be reinforced with an angle piece going down from the(back of) wedge to another piece of flat steel reinforcment welded under the pipes. You may have to lengthin your tongue some. It's hard to explain, over a keyboard but that is, IMO, a fairly easy fix. I also agree with Hosspuller, just figured why not add some reinforcment while working on it.

 

[oldboyscout]

The wedge now is located well beyond the length of the piston, so I can move it closer. I never need to split that length anyway.

 

[radioman]

you really just need gusset behind the wedge. I would also take that wedge out and weld it to a plate real good and then stick it up between tubes and weld plate to tubes on bottom. THEN you can reweld the wedge back to the tubes after removing the old welds. Add a gusset in back of wedge and call it good.

 

[Gator6x4]

I would check to insure clearance between the bottom of the ram and the two tubes. If good clearance existed, I would obtain a piece of c- channel the length of the rails, weld the wedge to the c-plate with a brace behind and then weld the c-plate onto the top of the rails. The wedge broke off because it was the weakess link. Reinforce the wedge and the rails will bend or break without some added support. Just my opinion.

Disregard post: I looked at the photo again and you would have to modify the end of the ram if an attempt was made to use my suggestion. The current ram has circles of steel around the tubes to prevent upward movement of the ram.

 

[oldboyscout]

Haven't had time to work on this, but I had another idea. I have this lying around:

Is there any reason to try to combine the 2 splitters?

 

[CBW1999]

Might be worth a try. I think the "I-beam" is a better design than the 2 tubes- stronger. The shorter wedge might be a problem though.

Several things to modify to get the shoe on the ram to slide/stay on the beam.

 

[oldboyscout]

What if I just remove the bottle jack and mount the cylinder there in the same way it is on the orange one, then cut the wedge off the black beam at the right length and weld the thin wedge on the black beam?

 

[CBW1999]

The I beam is much sturdier than the original- I wouldn't remove that wedge. I think you would have to mount the cylinder behind the bottom plate the bottle jack mounts to. In that case, you will have to cut a hole for the cylinder rod to pass through. The shoe the bottle jack uses appears light weight. If you can make it stronger or use it as a template to build a heftier one- you will be better off. If you can safely modify the shoe on the hydraulic cylinder- that may be an option.

Thats about all i can suggest looking at photos.

 

[lwhiway]

I'll assume you've done many hours of splitting with the twin tube setup, so with that said, increasing the mass of the material that your wedge will be fitted/welded to will increase it's longevity for splitting.

This is one reason you will see most hydraulic or pneudraulic splitters home built will be set up on beam rather than pipe.

Just remember that there are certain points of a splitter that take the most force/absorbe the force, the wedge being one of the most critical areas. The more area of a wedge that is welded to the beam will increase it's ability to withstand those forces. FWIW, most wedges opposite the ram will have a back bracing etc. Adequate welds will be of import as well.

 

[radioman]

I think you are just trying to give yourself more work unless you didnt like the tube setup. I would just straighten out the wedge and weld in a bracket or gusset behind the wedge onto the trailer tongue. be sure you strengthen the mounting point of bottom gusset underneath tongue with extra metal with whatever you have like angle iron, i beam etc.

 

[oldboyscout]

The plate that the bottle jack mounts to is similar to the orange one in shape but it is lighter weight. I imagine it could be beefed up. looks like the cylinder would mount pretty easily there. I still don't know if I want to mount the wedge on the ram instead and make it possible to do vertical. This splitter isn't all that powerful ( unless i replace the pump too....)

 

[PhysAssist]

The plate that the bottle jack mounts to is similar to the orange one in shape but it is lighter weight. I imagine it could be beefed up. looks like the cylinder would mount pretty easily there. I still don't know if I want to mount the wedge on the ram instead and make it possible to do vertical. This splitter isn't all that powerful ( unless i replace the pump too....)

Please don't call the cousin to my splitter pitiful. For what it's worth, the latest this modelsplitter was still made was in 1981 by a company that sold them as do it yourself kits (Heathkit), so it's older than more than a few of the members here.

It has apparently put in a ton of hours and probably withstood much abuse.

Just grind away the old welds and put the wedge back on with some reinforcement like a plate welded perpendicular across the bottom before sliding it back up into place and welding it there.

Ours has held up to new/upgraded hyd pump, hoses, motor, and even a newer, more efficient cylinder, on yours that weld must just been poorly applied...

Fwiw...
Thomas

 

[CBW1999]

HEATHKIT?!?!?!?? WOW! - haven't heard that name in years. Is there anything they DIDN'T offer in a kit to build?

 

[oldboyscout]

Wow, I bought it used, and figured it was homemade because I never saw anything like it. You're right it must have split a lot of wood over it's years.
Was the wedge originally attached between the tubes?