Plow build

   / Plow build
  • Thread Starter
#11  
If I frame mount the snowplow, I don't think the snowplow could be too heavy. Adding about 750 lbs of ballast to the 3point, loaded tires with chains would be about the best I could do to prevent swinging the tractor when angling the plow.
I know 8' of plow vs. 7' would increase the leverage of the tractor to side swing.
 
   / Plow build #12  
On "my" L4200, I've used an 8 footer, frame mounted and had no problems whatsoever with
swing of the tractor.
But I also have 28" rear's, loaded, but no chains, although I do have chains, if I ever needed them.
As you've already learned here, weight is the key ( if your machine can handle it),
I really can't speculate on this with your 19.5 rears,
I'm pretty confident with 24's, you would have had no problem.
I can also say that, on my previous tractor, a 25 hp L2550 with 20" rears (I believe) loaded,
I did have a "bucket mounted" plow ( 7 footer) with no problems of swing either.
 
   / Plow build #13  
I have an L3400 with a frame mounted plow and I wouldn't have it any other way. R-4's are not the best in snow but I put v-bar 2 link chains on the front tires and I can push the plow anywhere I want to go. I have been using it for 5 years this way. Uphill can be tricky though. I have no problems on the flat or downhill but sometimes I have a lack traction on packed snow going uphill. Power has never been an issue with an 8 footer. If the banks get to be a problem, I switch to the loader and break them up. I disagree whole heartedly with the gents who bucket mount or quick attach mount their blades. An 8 foot blade 2 foot out in front of your loader arms can be a lot more stress than digging with the bucket I believe. These small tractors were never designed to run an 8 foot bucket so why in the world would it be just as safe to run an 8 foot plow off the loader arms even farther than the bucket sticks out? Leverage is a wonderful tool but it can be a bear if your not careful. My driveway is not in the best shape and frozen banks are common. Catching a corner on the plow and having a chained up tractor doesn't leave any good options for what is going to fail. Just my 2 cents.
 
   / Plow build
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I agree with a frame mounted plow vs. Loader arm mount. Especially with an 8 foot blade. Mounting using the ssqa is just so convenient that it's hard to pass by.
How are you raising the plow Redneck? Did you add a cylinder to the frame mount?
 
   / Plow build #15  
I think an 8 ft plow on your tractor will handle a 6 or 7" snow storm if it's dry and fluffy. 7 or 8" wet will almost stop you dead. For an all around plow, 66"-72" is what I'd consider maximum for this size tractor if I wanted to plow any storm coming my way without having to go out in the middle of the storm. The pic is of a 27" storm I plowed out with my old tractor. It would go 30' before it stopped and this was with a 54" bucket. Without chains all around, I'd be stopped much sooner. Weight is everything. As you see this one, it came in a bit over 3000 lbs with loaded rears and the rear blade. Your Kioti will push more but within reason if everything is sized correctly to it's traction and push capabilities. Hope this begins to help you correlate.
 

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   / Plow build #16  
I have had both,frame mount on a L3130 and a FEL mounted(SSQA) on my L4240.I much prefer the FEL mounted version.I can stack snow nine feet high and if needed have the bucket on in minutes.You will need all the rear weight you can handle with either.I run a seven ft. rear blade also and have loaded R1's.
 
   / Plow build #17  
I agree with a frame mounted plow vs. Loader arm mount. Especially with an 8 foot blade. Mounting using the ssqa is just so convenient that it's hard to pass by.
How are you raising the plow Redneck? Did you add a cylinder to the frame mount?

Chuck,

I built a 2" receiver tube that bolts onto the sub-frame. I can then slide in my lifting arm to raise and lower the plow. With that set-up, I leave the sub-frame on, pull the 5/8" standard hitch pin, take the "Mast/lifting arm" off and can hook the loader back up in minutes. The plow uses the loader hydraulic block so pop four hoses and pull three pins and its all disconnected. Drive over to the loader, plug in 4 hoses, plug the two loader pins in, and raises the loader to store the feet and i'm back in business. That FEL mounted business is asking for trouble IMO.
 
   / Plow build
  • Thread Starter
#18  
My Kioti with the loaded tires, and 750 pds. of ballast should come in at about 4,500 pounds. Thats 310# of rimguard per tire. Where were you lacking arrow, hp or weight?
 
   / Plow build #19  
Last year I didn't bother putting my 7' snow plow on my bucket. I just used the bucket. I actually found it faster because I had fewer passes to make. With the plow (straight mount) snow would creep out the edges and I would come back again to clean that up. With the bucket it is compressed in as I go- less need for clean up passes. And it is easier to put the snow where I want to, as high as I want to. I'll do this until I get bored and try something else!
 
   / Plow build #20  
My Kioti with the loaded tires, and 750 pds. of ballast should come in at about 4,500 pounds. Thats 310# of rimguard per tire. Where were you lacking arrow, hp or weight?

Limitations were associated to weight. Never ran out of hp before I lost traction even at a whopping 19hp the tractor had. 1500lbs yours has over my JD is an enormous difference but tractive ability to utilize all that weight is your current knoggin knocker such as you may discover you'll need chains to take full advantage of your weight. You'll learn more thru experience and if you had to, you could always cut down the plow. You also may be of the mind to go out several times to knock down your stuff whereas unless we were getting a 3 footer, I wouldn't consider it. In the end, it's all kind of a good time.
 

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