plow hitch question???

[GYPSY]

Hi Y'all, no laughing but here goes. after years of not using tillage of any kind i resurrected my ih 4 furrow bottom plow from storage. new to farming even now but many years ago i bought the plow to work my land. i then thought about why the links that you hook up to are offset??? i do know that it allows for adjustment when in furrow but why need the offset. my ih plow has a lever that can be reached from tractor seat that allows for adjustment but that linkage has long been broken. so looking at it yesterday, it will just spin in the 2 supports of the plought frame. can i just lock/weld the bar/pipe so that the links are 12 and 6 and be done with it or try to make them adjustable, the latter being alot of work. can i replace that with a straight no offset cat 11 pin setup?? i am not going to be doing any major ploughing just garden and land upkeep. so am i o.k to weld her up and be done with it or what??? thanks for all replies. p.s. it truly was a pleasure plowing yesterday with it, didnt know how much fun i was missing

gypsy

 

[gwdixon]

I suspect that the older tractors, when plows were more popular, did not make for easy adjustments. More modern tractors have top links and side links that are very easy to adjust. In fact, I have a Top & Tilt set-up that makes it EXTREMELY easy.

My plow had problems hooking up to my CAT 2 tractor so the mounting bar was taken off and a CAT 2 drawbar from Tractor Supply was welded on. Works perfectly. Adjustments are made on the 3PH rather than on the plow.

Oh, and the welding in the first photo was cleaned up and redone before final painting. It is pretty ugly.

 

[GYPSY]

thanks gwdixon, thats a great idea, so theres really no need for the adjustment on the plow, i can just weld her up solid or make up something as You did??? my plow is very similar to yours, i have 4 and coulters, hd plow and in excellent shape but the darn manula adjument linkage. is there any place to find out about drawings and such?? how did You know to space your drawbar where it is, where You welded it??? from left of frame to end of link??? thanks for the info

gypsy

 

[gwdixon]

thanks gwdixon, thats a great idea, so theres really no need for the adjustment on the plow, i can just weld her up solid or make up something as You did??? my plow is very similar to yours, i have 4 and coulters, hd plow and in excellent shape but the darn manula adjument linkage. is there any place to find out about drawings and such?? how did You know to space your drawbar where it is, where You welded it??? from left of frame to end of link??? thanks for the info

gypsy

Measurement was really simple. I just measured how far the OEM right side ("passenger's side") lift pin stuck out from the 3PH frame and made sure the new drawbar was in the same relative position. That is the side that the tractor's wheel runs in the furrow.

You really don't want that geometry to change. The tractor's right side wheel must run in the furrow and the first moldboard must turn the soil evenly into the furrow.

The left side ("driver's side") sticks out further than the original since the Tractor Supply drawbar is CAT 2 while the OEM bar is CAT 1 dimensions. It is not a significant issue.

 

[Egon]

The item in question may have been used to keep the furrow level.

 

[GYPSY]

i will place the pins at 12 and 6 and weld her up solid. thanks for the advice and pucs.

gypsy

 

[gwdixon]

i will place the pins at 12 and 6 and weld her up solid. thanks for the advice and pucs.

gypsy

The only thing I'd say about your plan is that it will cause a lot of cranking on the side leveling turnbuckle. The first pass has to have all four bottoms lined up flat. Subsequent passes, when the tires are in the furrow, will require significant shortening of the right turnbuckle and probably some adjustment of the top link.

Not a problem if you don't mind.

 

[GYPSY]

The only thing I'd say about your plan is that it will cause a lot of cranking on the side leveling turnbuckle. The first pass has to have all four bottoms lined up flat. Subsequent passes, when the tires are in the furrow, will require significant shortening of the right turnbuckle and probably some adjustment of the top link.

Not a problem if you don't mind.

either way, i would have to adjust the length of the right turn buckle, it would just be longer because that side would be at 6 position. i will defintely look into doing your excellent idea above over the upcoming winter but in the mean time this should work???? thanks gwdixon and egon, i will post some pics if i can get 1 of my kiddos to do it for me..