Plow questions and good match?

Mearntain · Mar 3, 2016

Ive got a Ford 2000 3 cyl gas and just bought a John Deere 415 double plow last weekend. I've been trying to mess with it a bit but am bot really getting anywhere at all. I've done lots of reading on the forums and elsewhere but still can't seem to figure it out.

First question is, is the JD 415 a good match up with the ford 2000?

Second thing:

Just a side note, I've got the top link in the bottom hole.

My main problem is that I can't for the life of me get both plows to go down at the same time and dig 2 furrows. I can very easily set up the front plow to turn the ground pretty good and get about a 6 inch deep or so furrow. The back one just more or less barely scrapes the ground.

If I adjust it to bring the back plow down, my front one stops digging down. I can get the back one to dig decent to, but the front doesnt dive at all. So I feel confident both plows are in good enough condition to plow so I can eliminate that.

My last issue, is the plow wants to drift all the way to the left and I can't get it to track right. As a result, even if I wanted to setup to just run with the front plow, its drifting so far to the left that the chains are maxed out and the dirt isn't even turning over close enough to fill the furrow in. I'm also missing about a 10 inch wide or so piece of ground to wit it drifting over so far.

Where am I going wrong and how can I begin to fix this so I can get to plowing? I have been trying to set it up on flat concrete too with no luck either. I'm obviously doing something way wrong.

LD1 · Mar 3, 2016

No plow expert, but we always set up a 2-bottom 3ph plow by driving the high tire (the one that won't be in the furrow) up on a 8" timber or cement block. Then set the plow on the ground and adjust toplink and sidelink till both shares are flat on the ground. And maybe just a tad pointed forward so the tips are sure to engage hard ground. First pass won't cut even furrows as both tires will be level. But second pass with the tire in the furrow will be better

Mearntain · Mar 3, 2016

I tried doing that on the cement with some blocks but am having trouble getting the front pointed slightly down. Do you know what would be causing it to drift all the way to the left? As you can see in the picture, that was done with only the front plow engaged and was so far to the left it wouldn't fill the furrow.

Mearntain · Mar 3, 2016

Something else I just thought of. How does the top link typically look in relation to the holes on the bottom draft arms? With the plow properly set up, should the top link eyelet be at about the same perpendicular distance from the tractor as the draft arms eyelets? Or should the top link be sticking out further than the draft arms when in the lowered position? I am starting to question if my top link is the wrong size and I just don't have enough adjustment to use.

LD1 · Mar 3, 2016

Do you have a sway bar or chains?

Getting the tips just a tad downhill would mean shortening the toplink. Doing that also raises the rear plow. But since it is also offset to the side, adjusting the sidelines can bring it back in contact with the ground.

Again, I am not a moldboard plow expert. And my total operation of one over the years can probably be condensed into a week's worth or experience.

Try blocking the tractor as I mentioned, and then totally unhooking the plow. Let it sit flat on the ground. Use a shim, like a piece of 1/4" flat bar to give just a little tilt forward. Now don't move the plow. Move the 3ph arms till the fit effortlessly.

Mearntain · Mar 3, 2016

Sounds good, I'll give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens (depending on how wet everything is tomorrow with the wintry mix were getting tonight). Having the plow not attached when matching everything up to sounds like a good idea, I never thought to try it that way.

The top link I've currently got on the tractor is rather rusted and unusable for the last few inches on the tractor side of the link, so that may be some of the adjustment I need too since cant get close to shortening it all the way. I'm gonna pick up a new one on the way home from work anyways tomorrow.

Mearntain · Mar 3, 2016

And yea I do have chains on the tractor. I forgot to answer that In my last reply

Mearntain · Mar 4, 2016

One more question -

So as you can see in the pic I posted, my ground that I tried to plow looks horrible. I've got a furrow, 10 inches of unturned ground with dirt piled up on it, furrow, and repeat. Im in need of running over that ground again to get it right. So would I need to setup the plows level with each other with all 4 tires level on the ground to get a good cut on that part? Before getting to the new ground next to it?

farm boy00 · Mar 4, 2016

Mearntain said:
One more question -

So as you can see in the pic I posted, my ground that I tried to plow looks horrible. I've got a furrow, 10 inches of unturned ground with dirt piled up on it, furrow, and repeat. Im in need of running over that ground again to get it right. So would I need to setup the plows level with each other with all 4 tires level on the ground to get a good cut on that part? Before getting to the new ground next to it?

I would level that back out till it's semi level. Could use even a heavy beam but would recommend a drag or disk.

You might try putting your front tire in the air also. That would set it up better.

Also if needed got another chain and chain up your link to the drawbar or maybe the other axle so that way it won't pull over