Plowing 2 acres with L2501

[Dog Gone It]

Im thinking about buying a L2501 Hydrostatic 4wd.
Among other applications such as bushhogging, grading driveway, box blade work, I would also be plowing a 2 acre piece of ground at least twice a year.
I would be using a single bottom plow with R-1 tires.
Anyone see why the hydro trans wouldnt handle this single bottom plowing job just fine ?

 

[teg]

It works for me... and I have R4 tires and not sure about real HP. I think you have a larger engine but rated lower HP.

 

[Dog Gone It]

It works for me... and I have R4 tires and not sure about real HP. I think you have a larger engine but rated lower HP.

Thanks for the info.
L2501 is just under 25hp gross.
Also are you plowing in 2 or 4wd ?
Do have experience with both R-4 and R-1's tracking differently in the furrow ?
I cant help but think that traction might be substantially different due to the almost 4 inch wider track of the R-4 not connecting with the clean harder surface (roughly 8 to 10 inch wide) below that is created from my 14 inch single bottom.

 

[jeff9366]

You will be fine, if you select a plow that will fit the limited area around a L2501 Three Point Hitch.

I used a 12" Ford Series 101 two bottom plow behind a Kubota B3300SU/HST with 4-WD. Power and traction with R4/industrial tires filled only with air was not the issue. The Ford Series 101 is a full sized two bottom plow designed for the Ford 8N/9N tractors from 1938. Plow was a tight fit behind the B3300SU/HST and I bent some bodywork metal on the B3300SU. I think there is a tad more room around the Three Point Hitch of a L2501 than around my B3300SU rear but caution in old plow selection is advised.

I use the same plow behind my Kubota L3560/HST where there is PLENTY of room.

HST transfers max tractor power to tractor wheels as tractor begins to move, which is when both plow inertia and beginning of plow suck seeks to ****** tractor forward motion, so HST is well suited to moldboard plowing small plots.

MORE: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/276736-ford-series-101-plow-2-a.html?highlight=

 

[Dog Gone It]

You will be fine, if you select a plow that will fit the limited area around a L2501 Three Point Hitch.

I used a Ford Series 101 two bottom plow behind a Kubota B3300SU/HST with 4-WD. Power and traction with R4/industrial tires filled only with air was not the issue. The Ford Series 101 is a full sized two bottom plow designed for the Ford 8N/9N tractors from 1938. Plow was a tight fit behind the B3300SU/HST and I bent some bodywork metal on the B3300SU. I think there is a tad more room around the Three Point Hitch of a L2501 than around my B3300SU rear but caution in old plow selection is advised.

I use the same plow behind my Kubota L3560/HST where there is PLENTY of room.

HST transfers max tractor power to tractor wheels as tractor begins to move, which is when both plow inertia and beginning of plow suck seeks to ****** tractor forward motion, so HST is well suited to moldboard plowing small plots.

MORE: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/276736-ford-series-101-plow-2-a.html?highlight=

Im glad to hear there are no issues with the transfer of power from the hyd trans. That was my main concern. Thanks
I keep climbing the fence between R-1's and R-4's.
I know that R-1's have proven better traction but after reading your description of what R-4 unloaded tires can do Im second guessing myself.

 

[jeff9366]

Im thinking about buying a L2501 Hydrostatic 4wd.
Among other applications I will plow a 2 acre piece of ground at least twice a year.
I would be using a single bottom plow with R-1 tires.

That will be a lot of rough riding.

Consider moldboard plowing once every five years and the use of some type of conservation plow, such as a Field Cultivator, for twice annual soil preparation. Dirt Dog (brand) APP / Field Cultivators are produced with three tines and up......

LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/339095-dirt-dog-all-purpose-plow.html?highlight=

 

[jeff9366]

Im glad to hear there are no issues with the transfer of power from the hyd trans. That was my main concern. Thanks
I keep climbing the fence between R-1's and R-4's.
I know that R-1's have proven better traction but after reading your description of what R-4 unloaded tires can do Im second guessing myself.

I think MUD should determine R1/R4 decision. R1s are fair in mud, R4s are not. On the other hand, most residential tractor owners have the option of NOT working in mud. Farmers sometimes must work in mud.

Second determination should by how much over-the-road use your tractor will have. R1s vibrate on hard surfaces and wear relatively rapidly relative to R4s on hard surfaces in HST/HIGH at full throttle over-the-road speeds.


With 25-horsepower engine in a medium-weight chassis I believe it unlikely you will experience tire spin issues with R4/industrial tires.

Had you 37.5-horsepower of L3901 in same medium-weight chassis tire spin with R4s could be an issue.



My Kubota L3560 'Grand L', like your potential L2501, has low horsepower relative to its heavy chassis.

 

[Dog Gone It]

I think MUD should determine R1/R4 decision. R1s are fair in mud, R4s are not. On the other hand, most residential tractor owners have the option of NOT working in mud. Farmers often must work.

Second determination should by how much over-the-road use your tractor will have. R1s vibrate on hard surfaces and wear relatively rapidly relative to R4s on hard surfaces in HST/HIGH at full throttle over-the-road speeds.

Thanks.
As residential I would be mostly dry and Good point.
No road travel.
Once again you knocked me off the fence to the R-4 side. lol
I Just now was thinking that a loaded R-4 tire would be heavier than a R-1 loaded as well.
Also are you saying that the R-4 are a smoother ride than the R-1's ?

 

[jeff9366]

R4/industrial tires are a much smoother ride over hard surfaces.

Over soft surfaces, where R1 "bars" bite into soft soil, there is less difference.

R4s are marginally heavier than R1s loaded.
R1s yield a slightly wider tire spread than R4s, only for consideration working hillsides.


I am "way out there" in seeking to avoid soil compaction. I have never owned a tractor with liquid filled tires. That means I must carry counterbalance on the Three Point Hitch for any but lightest FEL work.
When pulling Three Point Hitch implements I minimally compact soil/lawns with air filled tires.

I never experience mud where i live in Florida, with perfect draining, porous, sandy-loam soil. This may sound lovely, but I have to irrigate six months of the year.

 

[jeff9366]

I know that R-1's have proven better traction but after reading your description of what R-4 unloaded tires can do I'm second guessing myself.

Measure twice; cut once.

Anticipation is 50% of satisfaction.