Egon
Epic Contributor
Check on my post on Spading a garden. Do that and you may be able to pull the plough.
plowing - what's wrong?
- Thread starter lcorrell
- Start date
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builder2
Bronze Member
lcorrell said:
Draft control. If the plow is sinking in to deep, you will stop the tractor. I do not not know if your Satoh is equipped with draft control (2nd lever by the 3ph control) but it will allow you to set the depth the plow can cut in ( say 8" ) which will also put weight on the back tires created by the sucking action of the plow.
Paul
I think if you investigate a little further, you will find that one bottom can be removed from that plow. It has not been used in 10 years. Do you know anyone with a torch? Before you do that, look it over good. The bolt heads on the face of the plow are usually worn in flush and difficult to see, but the nuts on the back side are easy to find. Spray them up with pb-blaster, take them off, pound out the bolts, and remove the rear bottom.
slipshot77
New member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2007
- Messages
- 17
I'll try to explain how to set your plows. Mount your plows and find a good level place to preferably on concrete. With ramps and blocks raise the right side of the tractor up the depth you want to plow. If you want to plow 8 inches deep the use 8 inch blocks. Let your lift down to where the plows are just an inch or so off the ground. Now you want to level the plows side to side by adjusting the tilt bar. After you get the side to side level adjust the third arm till you get the plows level from front to back. When you get everything set right, Let your lift down and the plows should be setting level on the ground. This will get you really close when you go back out in the field. A little tweaking might be needed but you should still be able to plow.
Option: B Go buy one of those cheap middle busters like TSC and other places sell and drag that through your ground. It won't be pretty but it will get you by. A disk will smooth it out afterwards.
Option: B Go buy one of those cheap middle busters like TSC and other places sell and drag that through your ground. It won't be pretty but it will get you by. A disk will smooth it out afterwards.
Well guys I managed to turn this 2-bottom plow into a 1-1/2 bottom plow I guess. I took the moldboard and cutting edge off one side so just the frame is left on that one. My tractor still wont pull it! I was really upset after spending half a day breaking rusty bolts off this thing only to get the same results. My tractor does not have draft control, it has what Satoh calls position control, but that's not the problem. It turns out the dealer lied to me when I got this tractor 2 years ago. They told me the tires were loaded and based on my crude test they are not! I positioned the valve stems so they were at the bottom and pushed the valve in - nothing but air! No wonder this thing has such tracton problems with this heavy loader on the front and no counter weight on the back.
So, I guess I need to load the tires. What are my options and what are the costs? Anything I can do myself for dirt cheap?
So, I guess I need to load the tires. What are my options and what are the costs? Anything I can do myself for dirt cheap?
Well, this gets weird-er. I decided I would load the tires myself with straight water to get this garden done, then I could drain them before winter. Both tires already have tubes. I started with the opposite side from the one I had checked last week that just had air in it. I started removing the valve stem and got squirted! Yep, one tire is loaded and one isn't! I guess the dealer only half lied to me about the tires being loaded. This one tire is fully loaded and the other, which obviously has a new tube, is just air filled. They are 11.2-24s, so I will only be adding like 150-200 lbs by loading the other tire. I don't think that is going to be enough to make a huge difference in traction that I need to pull this plow. So, I give up on the plowing. I tilled the garden to about 2" deep with a borrowed hand opperated tiller - that's all it could manage.
ampsucker
Platinum Member
did you try taking the loader off? i assume you are running a rear wheel drive only tractor, so no plowing advantage to keeping the loader on the front except for steering. taking off the loader could give significantly more traction to the rear tires - even more than loading the rears.
don't give up!
i just plowed my little garden space with a single bottom i rigged up to my 25 hp kubota. i did have 4x4, but plowed without the loader on the front since i had minimal maneuvering room. i got stuck a few times - it was very wet and soggy clay - but did get it done.
there is not comparison in my mind between what a good mold board plow can do vs. a tiller. the plow turns the soil over and leaves big chunks intact whereas a tiller is going to pulverize the soil which makes pretty planting beds, but doesn't help you in the long run with organic structure, root zone drainage, etc.
amp
don't give up!
i just plowed my little garden space with a single bottom i rigged up to my 25 hp kubota. i did have 4x4, but plowed without the loader on the front since i had minimal maneuvering room. i got stuck a few times - it was very wet and soggy clay - but did get it done.
there is not comparison in my mind between what a good mold board plow can do vs. a tiller. the plow turns the soil over and leaves big chunks intact whereas a tiller is going to pulverize the soil which makes pretty planting beds, but doesn't help you in the long run with organic structure, root zone drainage, etc.
amp
Renze
Elite Member
just help me out: 27 hp Satoh ? Satoh is the american trade name for Mitsubishi or Iseki tractors ?
If it is built the same way as a Kubby, Kioti or Iseki, i guess the tractor would weigh less than a ton. The 11.2-24 tires should be enough in dry conditions to put 27 hp to the ground.
Also, what tires do you have ? Thise Japanese rice field tires with 3 inch lugs on them ? My neighbour had a Kubota B7000 with those tires, the rear end would sit on the ground after 3 wheel turns. Those tires arent suitable for normal soil, only for sucking mud, or bone dry clay because they dig in so easy.
I plough with a Zetor 5245 with loader (close to 4 ton) about 10 to 12 inches deep, with a 3 furrow 16" reversible plough, it doesnt make much difference in traction, on cultivated soil or solid sod, the only thing you notice is that it runs on 1800 rpm instead of 2000 when you hit the spots that havent been cultivated. Sod requires more traction, but it also gives more traction to the wheels if you have normal Ag tires.
This tractor is puttign out near 55 hp but its the sheer weight and tires that keeps it going with this darn heavy plough. (it weighs nearly a ton !)
You also might have the problem that the bottom of the plough is worn off, so that the weight of the sod on top of the moldboard, is carried by the underside of the landside of the plough. According to Harry Ferguson, a plough should have a good "underbite" to prevent hard pan forming (no weight sliding over the soil down the furrow) and to generate traction: the rear axle should carry the full weight of the soil on the moldboards, this creates great traction.
With my tractor and plough, when hitting a hard spot i can lift the front of the tractor, including the heavy loader, out of the ground and work through the hard spot with only the rear wheels touching. It bellies out the 16.9-30 rears, and gives incredible traction.
If your plough doesnt have the "underbite" you can fix it by welding a chunk of old leaf spring (nearly as wear resistant as a real plough chisel) on the inner tip of the moldboard, extending at least an inch under the landslide.
removing only the moldboard, not the arm, will not decrease the required traction because it will drag through the soil instead of lifting it.
If your friend hasnt used it in 10 years, is he o.k. if you cut it off completely ?
If it is built the same way as a Kubby, Kioti or Iseki, i guess the tractor would weigh less than a ton. The 11.2-24 tires should be enough in dry conditions to put 27 hp to the ground.
Also, what tires do you have ? Thise Japanese rice field tires with 3 inch lugs on them ? My neighbour had a Kubota B7000 with those tires, the rear end would sit on the ground after 3 wheel turns. Those tires arent suitable for normal soil, only for sucking mud, or bone dry clay because they dig in so easy.
I plough with a Zetor 5245 with loader (close to 4 ton) about 10 to 12 inches deep, with a 3 furrow 16" reversible plough, it doesnt make much difference in traction, on cultivated soil or solid sod, the only thing you notice is that it runs on 1800 rpm instead of 2000 when you hit the spots that havent been cultivated. Sod requires more traction, but it also gives more traction to the wheels if you have normal Ag tires.
This tractor is puttign out near 55 hp but its the sheer weight and tires that keeps it going with this darn heavy plough. (it weighs nearly a ton !)
You also might have the problem that the bottom of the plough is worn off, so that the weight of the sod on top of the moldboard, is carried by the underside of the landside of the plough. According to Harry Ferguson, a plough should have a good "underbite" to prevent hard pan forming (no weight sliding over the soil down the furrow) and to generate traction: the rear axle should carry the full weight of the soil on the moldboards, this creates great traction.
With my tractor and plough, when hitting a hard spot i can lift the front of the tractor, including the heavy loader, out of the ground and work through the hard spot with only the rear wheels touching. It bellies out the 16.9-30 rears, and gives incredible traction.
If your plough doesnt have the "underbite" you can fix it by welding a chunk of old leaf spring (nearly as wear resistant as a real plough chisel) on the inner tip of the moldboard, extending at least an inch under the landslide.
removing only the moldboard, not the arm, will not decrease the required traction because it will drag through the soil instead of lifting it.
If your friend hasnt used it in 10 years, is he o.k. if you cut it off completely ?
RedDirt
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2007
- Messages
- 469
- Location
- Northern Idaho
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- Kubota BX23, Wards 16HP HST Garden Tractor, (previous) D2 Logging Cat
slipshot77
Thanks for the plow adjustment lesson. I've done reasonably well by guess and looking at the plow geometry but it is nice to see a bone' fide method for adjustment...I'll try it next time.
Thanks for the plow adjustment lesson. I've done reasonably well by guess and looking at the plow geometry but it is nice to see a bone' fide method for adjustment...I'll try it next time.
i have a powerking only 14 horsepower and plow quite a bit
with it obviously only a 1 bottom plow.plowing with a small tractor
is a artform everything must be set up correctly. i have made a
fool out of myself a few times. here is a thread from previous post
suddenly i have forgot to post pictures. once you get the first row
cut it gets alot easier.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/vintage-tractors/115931-powerkings.html
with it obviously only a 1 bottom plow.plowing with a small tractor
is a artform everything must be set up correctly. i have made a
fool out of myself a few times. here is a thread from previous post
suddenly i have forgot to post pictures. once you get the first row
cut it gets alot easier.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/vintage-tractors/115931-powerkings.html