plowing with hydro

[schmism]

That does not happen when I am using the rotary mower, because the majority of the engine power is going through the PTO system rather than the HST.

i agree, i can hear the engine pull down in heavy (chest deep) grass i brush hog once a year, but i can keep that up all day long and the HST system bairly cares.

having the HST barly (for lack of a better word) squeeling for the 30 min it takes me to plow, sometimes hitting bypass is really hard on the ol HST system.

there is no greater load you can put on a HST then heavy draft implements.

 

[john_bud]

Farmerford, My L3410 does not do that, but it only has plowed in 95 F heat for 6 -8 hours at a crack. I know you southern types live in heat that would melt lead (ha ha). Do you clean out the radiator with water on occasion? I was just blowing mine out with compressed air, but found that there was still a snit pot of stuff in it. Water from the hose (no pressure washer) flushed it out good and it stays cool. Except when mowing clutter blocks the air or it gets dusted, but that takes 5 min to whack off and it's a good time for a pop too!

jb

 

[Barneyhunts]

I've plowed for two years with a B7800 (30 Hp HST) using a two bottom 12' Howse plow. In heavy sod I removed one bottom and plowed about an acre without a problem. My machine has Ag tires which are loaded and my problem was lack of traction. I also had little experience and no way to control the depth of my plow. This year I added a gauge wheel and plowed with both bottoms in the areas I had plowed and planted last year and it went much better. Having said that, I believe a heavier higher Hp. machine would be a better choice, and for me, I'd want it with HST. I don't think the transmission had any negative effect on the plowing I did.
Good Luck,
Barnet

 

[Soundguy]

I have plenty of plowing experience under my belt...used to do 10 acres with a Ford 600 and two bottom plow when I was a kid growing up on a small hobby farm. I was just mainly concerned about the hydo...thanks for the help all!

What model were they? ( both plow and tractor? )

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

But I am not sure you can assume that you can plow all day in hot weather with any HST without overheating problems. I know for a fact that you can't with a Kubota L4330 in south Georgia in the summertime, because I have one. .

Man.. that's sad.. i wouldn't own a tractor that could not put out it's full rated DB hp all day... that's what they are suposed to do.. etc.. Make their full rated hp and run till the tank is empty.. then refill and run some more..

soundguy

 

[pitt_md]

I know you said the ground was rocky but I think your best bet is to use your tiller. HST's seem to do well in that arena from what I have read. If your just making a garden then picking rocks should not be that big of a deal. Have fun witch ever way you go.

 

[AndyinIowa]

There aren't ANY new tractors available that are designed to run at full DB load every day continuously. All tractors are designed to meet duty cycle requirements for a specific market segment.

HST's have an inverse life to pressure relationship. a HST will gladly run at relief pressure, but life of the rotating kit is dramatically affected.

For instance, if you put a CUT HST on a flywheel stand, and do flywheel reversals (full forward speed to full reverse speed all day long), you will wear out the rotating kit in a very short time (100 hours or so).

Heat and contamination kill piston pumps and motors. Pressure affects the fatigue life of the components.

A common misconception with a LOT of CUT and SCUT owners is that faster keeps the tractor cooler. When pulling hard, slow down, keep the mechanical reduction drives in the lowest range possible, and listen to the hystat. It will tell you when you are pushing it too hard.

IowaAndy

 

[Solo]

A common misconception with a LOT of CUT and SCUT owners is that faster keeps the tractor cooler. When pulling hard, slow down, keep the mechanical reduction drives in the lowest range possible, and listen to the hystat. It will tell you when you are pushing it too hard.

IowaAndy

The best thing about a geared tractor is that you can tell your pushing it to hard, if you smell the clutch burning.

Solo

 

[john_bud]

The best thing about a geared tractor is that you can tell your pushing it to hard, if you smell the clutch burning.

Solo

I try to stop at the large cloud of black smoke..... Guess I need to "man up" and go the distance!

Funny

jb

 

[Soundguy]

I for sure, wouldn't buy a new tractor if it could not make it's rated hp fuel fill up to fuel fill up.

I know my gear jobs out in the barn will. I don't see any 'duty cycle' chapters in their manuals.

Obviously we are making engines matched to jobs.. look at gensets... the engine runs at it's rated hp for the generator to make it's steady rated power???

soundguy

There aren't ANY new tractors available that are designed to run at full DB load every day continuously. All tractors are designed to meet duty cycle requirements for a specific market segment.

HST's have an inverse life to pressure relationship. a HST will gladly run at relief pressure, but life of the rotating kit is dramatically affected.

For instance, if you put a CUT HST on a flywheel stand, and do flywheel reversals (full forward speed to full reverse speed all day long), you will wear out the rotating kit in a very short time (100 hours or so).

Heat and contamination kill piston pumps and motors. Pressure affects the fatigue life of the components.

A common misconception with a LOT of CUT and SCUT owners is that faster keeps the tractor cooler. When pulling hard, slow down, keep the mechanical reduction drives in the lowest range possible, and listen to the hystat. It will tell you when you are pushing it too hard.

IowaAndy