Plows for dumbies.

[Birdhunter1]

The chisel plow I posted a link to would be a good one for a smaller tractor because it will allow the spring action strength in the shank to actually help it along once it is engaged in the ground.
I'd say about a 45-50 hp tractor would be the smallest to handle that chisel plow.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I remember reading an article in Prarie Farmer Magazine a few years back, regarding compaction behind a disc. It was determined that the disc itself caused some compaction, and a great deal was cause by the repeated trips over the field by the tractor pulling the disc.

If tillage must be done, nothing works like a chisel plow. Then follow up with a field cultivator.

Being a carpenter, I've been around air nailers quite a lot. People tend to go nuts with them, over-nailing things. Tillers tend to make people over-work soil. One pass is usually sufficient. Repeated tilling gives dirt a "talcum powder" consistancy.

 

[Oleozz]

I have been plowing food plots and garden patches for the last several days using a 2-12 bottom plow with a 45 hp tractor. I am plowing in thick sod that hasn't been turned over in 20 plus years so in some spots it is tough going. When using a three point hitch plow having it set up right is important. Your top link adjustment is critical as well as the tilt of your plow after you make your first pass. My tractor has draft control which also is a help in sensing ground conditions when dealing with roots and rocks. After plowing I will use a 7 tine spring loaded field cultivator, then a spike tooth harrow, and finally planting with a spreader and then covering the seeds with the harrow.

 

[Birdhunter1]

Whenevener I seed a field I plow it first, then disc once or twice (second trip I may be dragging a harrow), by now it is packed reltively sufficient for a good seed bed, spread seed (usually use the four wheeler and a seeder, talk about compaction) then drag a 15' harrow over it once and I'm done.

Another thing about a disc is they can be evil unleveling devices, hence dragging a harrow behind it a bit wider than the disk itself.

I wish the soil was loose enough to take a field cultivator to it after a plow has been through.

 

[Oleozz]

I'm finding out that a disc should be the next step after plowing, the cultivator is just pulling up the sod that I worked so hard to turn under. Some of my neighbor farmers told me they didn't think I needed a disc, so much for advice. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Keith_B]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm not a farmer and have never used a plow. I am planning on planting some food plots in the near future but that is going to be a low budget affair for a while.

But, I hear a lot of talk about implements that I have vague ideas about what they are and what they are for, but not specifically.

Could some kind person here provide a brief outline about what's-what in the world of plows and what they are for.

I'm aware of disks, tillers, subsoilers, 'plows', drills, listers, harrows, etc. Any clarification on these and other 'plowing' implements would be much appreciated. )</font>

The most economical way to work up the ground would be to pick up a used turning plow. I bought a used Dearborn 2 bottom 12 inch for $175 last summer. My tractor and yours have a similar HP rating, and a 2-12 or a 2-14 plow should be fine. You can even go with a single bottom plow if you plan on making small plots. The red plow in this pic is similar to mine, except someone painted mine some light blue color.

After plowing you can drag the ground, or go straight to the disk. A 5 1/2' to 6 1/2' disk would likely be what the doctor ordered for your tractor. Here is a pic of a new one, this one is the three point hitch version.

The new King Kutters like this one generally run in the $800-$1000 range.

You can find used drag types pretty cheap, three point hitch types run a little higher, but still aren't priced bad if you catch one at an equipment sale. I saw one sell a couple of weeks ago for about $200.

After disking I will drag the ground to smooth it out a little better. We used to use homemade log drags, but of late have just put the grader blade on the tractor, swivel the blade and backdrag the ground.

 

[JoeinTX]

Honestly, unless you're trying to plant a garden, skip the roto-vators and molboards and just go straight to a decent tandem disc. They are fine multi-purpose tilling implements and one/two passes will prepare unused ground sufficiently for planting. Are you broadcasting or drilling?

This one implement will cover all of your bases....

 

[MMM]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Tillers are great, but they seem to fluff the soil too much where moisture runs through too fast and won't soak in. )</font>

Actually, I've read the tiller is the very worst implement when it comes to creating hardpan. The tines beat everything underneath them into compacted state and can ruin a deep, decent draining soil. The disc will cause a compaction of sorts, but it's not so horizontal as turning plow or tiller and is less detrimental to deep root growth. You can do some pretty good chopping and turning with notched blades on a heavy disc. That's the primary tillage I've used for years (for plots and garden).

 

[daTeacha]

Exactly what will work best for you will depend on your soil type. Amuck soil will be different from a sandy loam which will in turn require different tools than clay, for example. Check with your local Soil Conservation Service office to see what they recommend.

 

[N80]

Great discussion. Unfortunately, my soil (I use the term loosley) is terrible and my budget is totally shot (the 50 hour service, which I did myself, cost $300 and I just bought a $600 box blade). One of the clearings I'm going to use, has patches with _nothing_ growing in them! And, there will be no implement purchases in the near future.. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

A tiller would not work in this stuff. It was a field once. But it was probably cotton and probably 80 years ago. It is now full of crumbly shale type rock and lots of rotting stumps/roots.

However, I tilted the box blade and ran the teeth all the way down and 'plowed' it this weekend. I was pleasantly surprised at the effect. It really loosed things up. It also pulled up some good sized rocks, but I didn't hit anything big enough to snag on. It skipped over the bigger stuff. I went very slow.

I think a two bottom plow, or even a single since these areas are small, might be the next step. Then a disk, but that will have to come later.