Plugger/core aerator construction

[kludge]

I have had my PT-425 for 7 weeks now and throughly love it. 32 hours and counting. I actually spent more money in attachments than on the tractor, and would recommend to anyone that they buy as many of them as they need and can afford. The true strength of this tractor is its versatility and maneuverability.

One of the attachments that I did get is the plugger/core aerator and I have been curious as to its construction. This is the only attachment that if I had it to do over again I would probably make my own or have PT make a modified one.

The aerator consists of 11 independent hubs with 6 tines per hub. Each of the 11 hubs can free turn on the axial shaft. Each of the 11 hubs has its own grease fitting.

When operating the aerator the free turning hubs make it hard to have an even downward pressure on the aerator. Approximately one third of the time the tines all line up and you are attempting to plug all 11 at once. One third of the time they randomize and it plugs smoothly instead of jumping up and down. The remaining third of the time it is somewhere in between. So as you operate the aerator, it will bounce sometimes, wobble side to side sometimes, and smoothly plug sometimes.

I am considering spot welding the hubs together in an offset pattern to attempt to have it plug more smoothly. What I don't fully understand is why it is constructed this way in the first place. Is it to randomize the plug pattern. (I really don't think the grass cares) Or is it just cheaper and easier to make independent hubs. (Seems to me it costs more) Does anyone have any thoughts?

 

[MossRoad]

Hmm... interesting observations. Maybe it is so you can turn the unit while plugging. I would think if it was solid all the way across, it would gouge or drag. Think of a solid axle in the rear end of a car or truck. You can't corner without the outside tire dragging or the inside tire spinning.

 

[smartguyz]

Wow. That is very interesting information. It sounds like the unit is very well constructed, but not well-designed. I had some thoughts of doing a light-duty aerator using one I purchased at the Depot.

Here's the old thread talking about it.

The unit from Brinley actually does have fixed positioning of the corers, they do not free-wheel. It always cores smoothly when I am pulling it behind my Deere. I was trying to come up with a way to get rid of my JD318, if possible, and come up with a superior design. I think my idea still has merit, but am concerned that the ability of the PT425 to apply down pressure may cause the light unit to collapse. If there was a way to keep the down pressure to within the design limits of the aerator (150 lbs, I believe), then I think my idea will work.

Any one have further thoughts on this?

-Rob /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Leave it in float and drive backwards /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[OBKB]

The Walker Perforator is cam driven. Sort of reminds me of a sewing machine. Look under implements.

 

[MossRoad]

Neat machines. I like their little leaf blower. Put a hydraulic motor on that sucker and put it on the PT quick attach! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[kludge]

Makes some sense, but even with the independent hubs you can do very little turning with the aerator down. I always works much better to lift reposition and start again.

 

[Edward_DiMaria]

Hi - I have the aerator aas well and have used it extensively
I agree that to work better the plugs should offset and not line up - but a soid connection might be difficult to turn -
I'll tell you one thing - the unit does not operate well at all without weight - down pressure does not work the same as free weight - I added removable plates to mine and it really works well now (there is an old picture somewhere on this site)
I use it in float. I usually lift it to turn at the end of a pass so maybe a soliid connection would work even better - need to check how Ryan does it on their unit - in any event with weight for some reason they don't line up as much when moving

hope that helps

 

[Edward_DiMaria]

Hi everyone - I have the aerator aas well and have used it extensively
I agree that to work better the plugs should offset and not line up - but a soid connection might be difficult to turn -
I'll tell you one thing - the unit does not operate well at all without weight - down pressure does not work the same as free weight - I added removable plates to mine and it really works well now (there is an old picture somewhere on this site)
I use it in float. I usually lift it to turn at the end of a pass so maybe a soliid connection would work even better - need to check how Ryan does it on their unit - in any event with weight for some reason they don't line up as much when moving

hope that helps

 

[bubenberg]

by aerating in more than one direction .... which you should anyhow .... you will have achieved, what you are attempting to do a well aerated turf area. the fixing by any means will set you back thirty years of turf care.

we in the business have long argued for that improvement.

 

[smartguyz]

Bubenberg -

I don't understand what you wrote. Can you rephrase please?

Sincerely,

Rob /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[bubenberg]

<font color="red"> they do not free wheel </font> for thirty years or more the turf production side, the grasshoppers, have fought for free wheeling. the reason for it is when you hit an obstruction, such as a rock, a large portion of your tines can get bent.

in the dry years i ask my customers to water the lawn prior our doing the aeration. if you aerate an area that is soft (moist) and you apply a little down pressure (via the pt controls) you will achieve sufficient penetration.

in addition aerate the same era in more than one direction (at a 90 degree angle)

 

[Edward_DiMaria]

I agree - now thinking about it having the tines able to turn independent is best - also tractor down pressure does work pretty good - but the best way to get even penetration
and still keep all the weight (control) on the tractor tires is to aerate in float and add the correct amount of weight for the conditions (moisture in the soil) to achieve the depth you are looking for - the unit simply works best that way - I have tried it both ways numerous times in various soil conditons (down pressure vs weight)