Pole Barn Build, 40x50x12

[nrc17gto]

I have been planning this building for a little while and now the time has come. My wife and I have taken a week off of work and although we don't expect to get it done in that time, we should be able to get a good start with some help.

We received the trusses yesterday, 40' wide with 2' OH on each end so a total of 44' wide. Today, we received the rest of the lumber. We spent most of the day just moving the lumber up to the building site with our 4 wheeler and a small trailer. I plan to post as much as I can with pictures and updates as long as the community shows interest.

Thanks for reading!

 

[Dano5509]

Pole barn threads with photos are very popular! Looking forward to seeing your progress....:thumbsup:

 

[Joe Dirt]

Had the Bairds pole barn, from Ok. add a 30X30 to each end of my shop, now that is full time to add or remove some stuff, think I will add, Joe Dirt.

 

[Army grunt]

By all means send pics of your build. I love seeing it come together.
Army Grunt

 

[Joe Dirt]

soon as I get the cement poured I will get a pic, sure nice to have an open area that is cool even when it hot, on the south side of the shop so will be nice even in the winter down south, My LS 3010 love it, Joe Dirt

 

[nrc17gto]

We didn't quite get a full day of work in today. We did get all of the trusses moved up our long driveway close to the build site. It was pretty time consuming but we did get it down successfully and safely.


P4240107 by nrc17gto, on Flickr


P4240115 by nrc17gto, on Flickr

Hope everyone had a good Easter!

Nick

 

[Grayson Klassen]

My wife and I will be building a smaller pole bldg for hay storage 20x24x12 so look forward to your future updates

 

[nrc17gto]

Well, we got the holes dug today for the poles. NOT a fun process.

We will clean them up some and hope to start setting poles tomorrow depending on the weather.


PostHoleAuger by nrc17gto, on Flickr

 

[hcallaway]

I think it is great that the family seems to be so involved. Give the lovely bride a big thumbs up!

 

[nrc17gto]

Question for the community.

I have read a lot but wanted to try to get a direct answer to my question.

When we dug the holes, we could not get any of them 4' deep. We ran into rock that stopped our auger process on nearly every hole.

We initially planned on digging 4' and pouring a small concrete pad at the bottom to set the pole on and backfilling with the dirt that came out of the hole. From what I understand the depth is to help with shear strength. Is this right?

Our building is going to be completely wrapped with OSB and then siding is going to be put on. Wouldn't this help with the strength?

Sorry for the rambling, this has been frustrating and I am looking for some answers before the weather hopefully breaks tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

[fowllife]

The deepth of the post serves 2 main purposes, for shear strength and frost protection. If you are sheathing it all anyways then I wouldn't be too worried about shear. The frost part could be a little tricky depending on where you live. If you holes are below your frost depth I would just throw the post in, back fill, and move on. Do you know what your frost depth is?

 

[Gizmo2]

Frost has to get below the rock you can't drill through. In other words, the rock becomes an extension of the pole, per say.

 

[fowllife]

Frost has to get below the rock you can't drill through. In other words, the rock becomes an extension of the pole, per say.

Only if you addiquitly fasten the post to the rock though. If you just set the post oe concrete pad on top of the rock, above the frost line, then moisture can get between to post and the rock, and freeze. Hence the question of the frost depth.

If the top of rock is above the frost line then the "right" thing to do would be to drill and epoxy rebar into the rock. Then tie the rebar into a concrete pad that the post is anchored to, or into. Or drill and epoxy a base plate/bracket to the rock for the post to anchor to.

 

[MacLawn]

I wonder - why couldn't he just use the round cardboard concrete forms, pour concrete into them with the post holders inserted before they cure, then attach the posts to that? Wouldn't that solve the problem? Or, would it create something else?

I guess that still does not solve the frost line issue though. nrc, where you located? In my area, frost line is only about 2', maybe less.

 

[nrc17gto]

Thanks for all the replies! You guys are great. I am just outside of Nashville, TN. Anybody have a current frost line map?

 

[Gizmo2]

Thanks for all the replies! You guys are great. I am just outside of Nashville, TN. Anybody have a current frost line map?

I would not worry too much about frost at your location.

 

[wedge40]

Thanks for all the replies! You guys are great. I am just outside of Nashville, TN. Anybody have a current frost line map?

Quesstimate after a google search.
12". About how deep are you holes now?

Wedge

 

[Perplexed]

Quesstimate after a google search.
12". About how deep are you holes now?

Wedge

12" would be the frost line, right? That sounds about right; in Tulsa, we need to bury our water lines 24" deep, or 12" below the frost line.

 

[nrc17gto]

Quesstimate after a google search.
12". About how deep are you holes now?

Wedge

Thanks! I would say they are all at least 12". If not, I can dig it out a bit with the bobcat bucket if necessary. Can move some rocks this way that the auger would not think about budging.

So, should I just sit the pole in the hole, get it squared up and braced then pour a 60# bag of quikrete around it? What do you think about putting a short piece of rebar through the pole first?

 

[Putter]

pouring a small concrete pad at the bottom to set the pole on

I think this is a bad idea.
From my limited knowledge you want gravel at the base so water does not settle at the base of the pole and induce rot..I have heard no concrete at all is preferable. just pea gravel, that allows for settling and over time the gravel sets the pole itself tight.