Junkman
Super Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...................I plan on setting my poles (6x6's) 4 feet into the ground. The poles will have a concrete bisquit on the bottom, plus a concrete neckless. What I am considering doing.....is when I pour the slab-is tying the poles into the concrete. Is this ok or am I going down a bad path....)</font>
My suggestion for your circumstances would be to purchase some 8" schedule 40 PVC pipe and slip this onto the poles before you set them. They pipe pieces should be about 12" long. Hold them up above the ground level by a nail so they don't get buried. After the poles are set, the pipe will set on the ground and keep the concrete from contacting the poles. This will allow the concrete floor to "float" and the poles to have movement also. In essence this will allow the two pieces to move independently of each other. There will be no stress put on either this way. Others might not agree with this. This is just my opinion and there is no scientific basis for it. I just don't like setting wood into concrete if it can be avoided for obvious reasons. I am not familiar with the climate in your neck of the woods, but if it is wet, this will keep the wood dry. If it is freezing in the winter, this will allow for expansion and contraction. Besides, if nothing else, possibly, I can spark some discussion of theory. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I would also like to point out that I am not a believer in "biscuits" for placing the poles on. I would rather see you pour in place a concrete pad after you dig the hole. If you have access to a transit and story pole, set each one to the same depth and start off with all measurements being equal. The more that is the same at the beginning the easier it is going to be later on. It is always easier to set it up correctly at the front end than to fix it at the back end. I have always been a believer that if you don't have the time to do it right the first time, you will have to find the time to fix it at some time later on. Do it right the first time and you don't ever have to do it over again. The hardest thing is when you are not familiar with the process the first time to know if you are doing it correctly the first time. This is where we come into play. We will try to keep you going on the straight and narrow path. You ask the questions, and we will try to supply you with the answers. We might not always be correct, but you will always get a diversity of answers. It is up to you to choose and pick those answers that you think most closely resemble the circumstances that you are encountering and apply that advice to the project. The standard disclaimer is that you are ultimately responsible for the success or failure of the project, so you have to feel certain that it is correct. Good luck, you are going to need it. Whether you like it or not, you are headed down the very same road that Mowpower went, just with a different set of difficulties.... I know, because it is called "LIFE".......
Junkman the Philosopher /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
My suggestion for your circumstances would be to purchase some 8" schedule 40 PVC pipe and slip this onto the poles before you set them. They pipe pieces should be about 12" long. Hold them up above the ground level by a nail so they don't get buried. After the poles are set, the pipe will set on the ground and keep the concrete from contacting the poles. This will allow the concrete floor to "float" and the poles to have movement also. In essence this will allow the two pieces to move independently of each other. There will be no stress put on either this way. Others might not agree with this. This is just my opinion and there is no scientific basis for it. I just don't like setting wood into concrete if it can be avoided for obvious reasons. I am not familiar with the climate in your neck of the woods, but if it is wet, this will keep the wood dry. If it is freezing in the winter, this will allow for expansion and contraction. Besides, if nothing else, possibly, I can spark some discussion of theory. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I would also like to point out that I am not a believer in "biscuits" for placing the poles on. I would rather see you pour in place a concrete pad after you dig the hole. If you have access to a transit and story pole, set each one to the same depth and start off with all measurements being equal. The more that is the same at the beginning the easier it is going to be later on. It is always easier to set it up correctly at the front end than to fix it at the back end. I have always been a believer that if you don't have the time to do it right the first time, you will have to find the time to fix it at some time later on. Do it right the first time and you don't ever have to do it over again. The hardest thing is when you are not familiar with the process the first time to know if you are doing it correctly the first time. This is where we come into play. We will try to keep you going on the straight and narrow path. You ask the questions, and we will try to supply you with the answers. We might not always be correct, but you will always get a diversity of answers. It is up to you to choose and pick those answers that you think most closely resemble the circumstances that you are encountering and apply that advice to the project. The standard disclaimer is that you are ultimately responsible for the success or failure of the project, so you have to feel certain that it is correct. Good luck, you are going to need it. Whether you like it or not, you are headed down the very same road that Mowpower went, just with a different set of difficulties.... I know, because it is called "LIFE".......
Junkman the Philosopher /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
