Pole Barn Construction

/ Pole Barn Construction #1  

SPaulsen

Bronze Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Messages
54
Location
Monroe, Washington
Tractor
Kubota L45TLB, Kubota G2160 R48S mower
I am currently in the planning stages of constructing a 22 X 32 implement shed. I have a set of plans which I purchased from the internet. Before I apply for my permit, I know one of the issues will be some sort of earthquake reinforcement that is required for my area (northwest). Without having to go to an engineer ( I will if I have too), does anyone out there in tractor world have any experience with what that may be for a pole building. I know what to do for stick framing and regular foundation type construction but what would a permit department require for poles? Is any required at all for pole buildings? The biggest issues up here for construction is snow loads and earthquake protection. Thanks,
steve
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #2  
Hi Steve,

Find out first if you are zoned as Agricultural, and are using the building for Agricultural purposes.

Most of the time, farmers are exempt from building codes and can build anything they want.

Check with your insurance provider to also get their requirements prior to construction.

Good luck

Yooper Dave
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #3  
There is a thread in this forum about building a pole barn started by Mopower440. I believe that if you read all the threads that he has started and the responses to the questions that he has asked, any question that you could think of in the course of building a pole barn has been covered. Even some that you might never think of asking have been covered. If you enjoy reading the posts, wait till you see the movie! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Pole Barn Construction
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Dave, thanks for the reply. I am zoned for agricultural. I will check with the county and see what flexibility they have.
 
/ Pole Barn Construction
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#5  
Mr. Junkman, thanks for the tip...I will check Mr. MoPower's pole barn thread. I have been following the threads for quite some time now and have learned quite a bit from everyone's good and bad experiences. Best regards, steve
 
/ Pole Barn Construction
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Mr. Junkman, I just read Mopower's thread....Oh my god!, that wore me out just reading it. I do have a question, and I dont want to start another thread like that.....I plan on setting my poles (6x6's) 4 feet into the ground. The poles will have a concrete bisquit on the bottom, plus a concrete neckless. What I am considering doing.....is when I pour the slab-is tying the poles into the concrete. Is this ok or am I going down a bad path....PS..I dont want to replicate the Mopower thread...No disrespect intended to Mr. Mopower, but he has a much more exciting life than I! Best regards to all. Steve
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #7  
yall wont have to worry about me anymore, gonna try to get muhammed to delete all my crap out of here so all can calm down.
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( yall wont have to worry about me anymore, gonna try to get muhammed to delete all my crap out of here so all can calm down. )</font>

Now why would you want to do that.... it has been as much an adventure to us as it has been to you and it has all been as much fun for both of us. If it is deleted, then others wouldn't learn from the mistakes of others. This is how we all learn, both you and I. I wasn't born smart, but I learned by making mistakes and from other peoples mistakes that they told me about. Sure, I gave you some ribbing, but it was always meant in good fun. Unfortunately, I had a personal crisis arise at the same time that you made the post about he building going up in smoke, and I wasn't here mentally to respond properly. It would be a mistake to have the posts removed. Please reconsider your position..... besides, we are all expecting an invitation to the party when it is done! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #9  
<font color="blue"> yall wont have to worry about me anymore, gonna try to get muhammed to delete all my crap out of here so all can calm down. </font>


Everyone learned a little something from the pole barn threads AND got entertained in the process.

Don't have the posts deleted just because a few people critized you. You're this far along now and you can't give up just because someone said your building is going to blow away or your metal roof is a little crooked.

Just go about each day of life as a learning experience, and when you go to bed each night, think about what you know now that you didn't know yesterday. When you wake up tomorrow, pass what you learned today on to the next person.
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #10  
I think we should reply on mopo's thread. I'm sure he's checking after he posts for answers. Just a thought. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #11  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...................I plan on setting my poles (6x6's) 4 feet into the ground. The poles will have a concrete bisquit on the bottom, plus a concrete neckless. What I am considering doing.....is when I pour the slab-is tying the poles into the concrete. Is this ok or am I going down a bad path....)</font>

My suggestion for your circumstances would be to purchase some 8" schedule 40 PVC pipe and slip this onto the poles before you set them. They pipe pieces should be about 12" long. Hold them up above the ground level by a nail so they don't get buried. After the poles are set, the pipe will set on the ground and keep the concrete from contacting the poles. This will allow the concrete floor to "float" and the poles to have movement also. In essence this will allow the two pieces to move independently of each other. There will be no stress put on either this way. Others might not agree with this. This is just my opinion and there is no scientific basis for it. I just don't like setting wood into concrete if it can be avoided for obvious reasons. I am not familiar with the climate in your neck of the woods, but if it is wet, this will keep the wood dry. If it is freezing in the winter, this will allow for expansion and contraction. Besides, if nothing else, possibly, I can spark some discussion of theory. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I would also like to point out that I am not a believer in "biscuits" for placing the poles on. I would rather see you pour in place a concrete pad after you dig the hole. If you have access to a transit and story pole, set each one to the same depth and start off with all measurements being equal. The more that is the same at the beginning the easier it is going to be later on. It is always easier to set it up correctly at the front end than to fix it at the back end. I have always been a believer that if you don't have the time to do it right the first time, you will have to find the time to fix it at some time later on. Do it right the first time and you don't ever have to do it over again. The hardest thing is when you are not familiar with the process the first time to know if you are doing it correctly the first time. This is where we come into play. We will try to keep you going on the straight and narrow path. You ask the questions, and we will try to supply you with the answers. We might not always be correct, but you will always get a diversity of answers. It is up to you to choose and pick those answers that you think most closely resemble the circumstances that you are encountering and apply that advice to the project. The standard disclaimer is that you are ultimately responsible for the success or failure of the project, so you have to feel certain that it is correct. Good luck, you are going to need it. Whether you like it or not, you are headed down the very same road that Mowpower went, just with a different set of difficulties.... I know, because it is called "LIFE".......
Junkman the Philosopher /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #12  
I can personally show you what happens to wooden posts on concrete after about 12 years. They simply rot away. Use treated posts if possible or telephone poles that are treated. These will last a lifetime. Go down 4 feet if you are in a freeze zone like MA.
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ( ...................I plan on setting my poles (6x6's) 4 feet into the ground. The poles will have a concrete bisquit on the bottom, plus a concrete neckless. What I am considering doing.....is when I pour the slab-is tying the poles into the concrete. Is this ok or am I going down a bad path....)</font> )</font>

My posts (6x6 also) are just setting on concrete pads and are burried 6 feet into the ground. They are preasure treated and should give me a lifetime of trouble free support. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
/ Pole Barn Construction
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Dear MoPower, Let us know how your project went...This would be my first pole barn, so I am traveling down unchartered path myself. Best to you sir, Steve
 
/ Pole Barn Construction
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thank you for the tips. I am not even considering breaking ground on this project until I get all my ducks in a row. I thought I might ask some naive questions due to the fact I have never used poles for building support. The last thing I need is to have structural forces working against each other. Again, thanks for assistance. I am sure I will have many more questions as my planning process continues. steve
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #16  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( yall wont have to worry about me anymore, gonna try to get muhammed to delete all my crap out of here so all can calm down. )</font>

why? hurt your feelings?
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #17  
(Mo - your posts & questions have been very informative to everyone here. I think everyone was having a good time with it. Hope you are not upset - if something I said bothered you, I'm sorry. Just going along with the fun - & I did learn a lot from your questions.)

Here in Minnesota, poured concrete is just death to poles for a pole barn. It traps moisture on & in the wood, and ruins it. I would do what I had to so I didn't have to pour any concrete against the wood. Some building codes require a poured donught around the very bottom of the pole, with spikes in the pole to anchor it. No getting around building codes, but I'd do what I could to avoid making a water trap. Poured concrete at the surface level around the post = a rotted off post in 10 years - uuk.

Perhaps pouring round concrete footing piers to above ground & bolting the poles to the top of the piers is the way to go - wood costs more & more, & the quality & pressure treatments get poorer & poorer....... Concrete & rerod can't be that much more money, the poles will be shorter, & you never have to worry about underground or ground line rot.

--->Paul
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #18  
Can you safely set trusses at 48 inches apart with metal roofing??
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #19  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Can you safely set trusses at 48 inches apart with metal roofing?? )</font>
YES check with a local truss co and tell them what you are doing. They will tell you what to do. The purlins will be what supports the tin and then they are supported by the trusses
 
/ Pole Barn Construction #20  
Bee Farmer,
In the southern part of the country trusses on 48" centers to support a metal roof is fine. I've seen 1x4 purlins used with good results. In the northern areas where snow becomes a problem I wouldn't know.
 

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