Pole Barn question

[nvip9r]

Paul
I checked out your setup. Looks great. So did the posts get encapsulated with the concrete or anchored to the top? Did you use the .40 or the .60 Pressure Treated posts. I am trying to keep on the cheap and it seems like a great idea. for a nice big garage for my toys.

Still trying to research the Pole Protectors. But from what I am seeing since not much input I am guessing people really aren't using them or they are just a gimick?? Still trying to research as well as how I can build my own trusses. Sounds like another way to save some more $$...

thanks

 

[bglz42]

Straight in the ground on mine. I asked my polebarn builder ( Joe Drywater) who has been at it a while. Recommended no encapsulation. I know that there are some that he built near here that are 20 plus years old and are still solid. The structure I built 12 years ago with concrete encapsulation rotted off at the concrete.

 

[EddieWalker]

Poles in the ground are a well proven method that has stood the test of time. Packing them in clay or pouring concrete is still a debate as to which is best. Both have their advantages and drawbacks. I personally like to pack them in clay and avoid concrete if possible.

What is critical with your poles is to be sure to get water away from them as fast as possible and keep them dry at fround level. In every case when they rot out, it's not what happens in the ground, it's what happens at ground level. What I've seen is the ground settles around the poles over time and water collects there. That water will lead to rot. Pressure treated wood rots like all other wood, it just takes longer. Once it starts, there's no stopping it, so you really have to pay attention to that area. Walls, floors, eves and even gutters all help to keep water away from the posts, but nothing is better then a really good slope away from the wall to move the water as fast as possible.

Spray on insulation is going to be the very best that you can get. It is also the most expensive by a very large margin. Most economical way is to roll out a layer of insulation over your purlins and install your metal over that. This will take care of the condensation issue that metal roofs are famous for. Then use fiberglass bats if you want to insulate the roof, or blown insulation if you want to insulate the celing. Blown in gives you the best coverage and R factor for the money.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[bearcreek paul]

Mine were encapsulated in concrete.One of my friends told me to just use sand i was a little leery of that and stayed with the concrete.As was mentioned it's the water from above that gives you grief.I have had my deck on for over 15yrs and the posts look like new just keep the water away.The lumber was all bought from lowes so i would imagine it would be 40.Like you i was trying to build it cheep as possible.good luck and have fun:thumbsup:

 

[bironacad]

I used sonotubes and u-clips. Cedar rough cut 6 x 6 posts time will tell, lol.

 

[Tompet]

I checked out these a little over a year ago at an impressive full service lumber yard (Keim Lumber) which was also closest dist. and the price was around $140. each for a 5' long pressure concrete base attached to a 12' 6x6.
tp

<http://www.permacolumn.com/>

 

[ole farmerbuck]

We're having a 40x80 shop (pole barn) built now. The contractor said they use cement in the bottom and dirt around the treated 'poles'. He said he would use gravel if i wanted to get it for him. Wonder if gravel would be better than dirt.

 

[grsthegreat]

i have 6x6 and 6x8 treated post stuck directly into the ground 4 feet deep. my barn has been up for 12 years...looks new still. not sure about pole protectors...not sure what they are. treated lumber has been shown to withstand rot. our ground here is all decomposed granite, so water doesn't pool. i guess if i had standing water i might think of some other form of protection for the posts. the only thing that does erk me is the movement of the 6x6's do set off some minor floor cracking in some areas. i dont think that a simpson tie would hold up the shear forces of a barn. ive used those on lean toos attached to regular buildings, but never to a free standing building (my 2 cents)

 

[grandpa_e]

I recently had a 30x40x12 pole barn built in Southern Louisiana. I went with the post protectors for two reasons, termites and water. We have lots of both! Once the building is sided and under roof, there is no way for water to get into the post protectors. Also, since the protectors go about a foot higher than the slab, I can visually see if termites were getting up to the wood. I won't say they are good for everyone, but in our area I think they are a must. Can't speak to the longevity, but I think it will be very good.

 

[bironacad]

I recently had a 30x40x12 pole barn built in Southern Louisiana. I went with the post protectors for two reasons, termites and water. We have lots of both! Once the building is sided and under roof, there is no way for water to get into the post protectors. Also, since the protectors go about a foot higher than the slab, I can visually see if termites were getting up to the wood. I won't say they are good for everyone, but in our area I think they are a must. Can't speak to the longevity, but I think it will be very good.

Hi Grandpa_e, is this what you used and is the bottom of the post protector closed?
Installation Instructions – Post Frame | Post Protector