pole barn squareness?

[Junkman]

A triangular speed square is the easiest way. Don't forget the safety glassess.....

 

[cj7]

that sure is a nice gift.....was that a gift for yourself?

I know I tend to do that at Christmas..

keep us up to date with some pics.

 

[mopower440]

na, it was from my parents..now, if all i have is a dot from the laser for a reference point, wouldnt it be too possible to lay the square across the dot and have the square cocked instead of level, therefore making the line on the next side off from the side with the dot? would it be better to first shoot the laser, then put the dot on the pole, then take a level and lay it accross the dot and mark a straight line accross the dot, then use the square, that way the straight edge of the square would have a level line to lay against?

 

[mopower440]

???

 

[Spencer]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( if all i have is a dot from the laser for a reference point, wouldnt it be too possible to lay the square across the dot and have the square cocked instead of level, therefore making the line on the next side off from the side with the dot? would it be better to first shoot the laser, then put the dot on the pole, then take a level and lay it accross the dot and mark a straight line accross the dot, then use the square, that way the straight edge of the square would have a level line to lay against? )</font>

Hopefully the rotating laser level you got rotates constantly. If it does rotate constantly then it will actually project a line on your pole instead of just a dot. Depending on where the level is in relation to the pole you may be able to project the line or dot on two sides of the pole. I did all my laser work at night and that made it real easy to see the laser. I used a speed square and your right some times the side of the pole was not true. What I did was put the level up in one spot and mark all the sides of the poles that I could. Then I moved the level to a different spot to mark the opposite sides of the poles. My rotating laser level is one of the auto leveling models which makes it easier to set up in different locations. This method allowed me to at least partially mark three sides of each pole. I used the speed square and some judgement to mark the last side of the pole.

Spence

 

[CTyler]

The Rotating laser I have rotates via remote control vs a spinning laser that spins all the time. My Robolaser has a prism attachment that will project a line of dots. The line of dots would show up on two sides of the post.

With just the dot on a single spot you should be able to use a sqaure to draw a line all the way around. Just draw your first line on the dot with the square. Then line up the square on the next side with the line you just drew. Draw that line. Do that on both sides of the dot.

At this point You should have a line across the dot and a line on both sides of the post. Now line up your square, on the back side, to those lines you just drew. Draw your final line. You should now have a line all the way around the post.

 

[mopower440]

ok guys, im getting frusterated here, really bad!! I did the laser thing to get a reference point on each pole, so i measured from the reference point to the skirtboard on the side i already had done and went to the opposite wall and used that measurement to line up my skirt boards there, well i went out today with a string level and checked the skirtboard against the opposite side and its 1/2 inch off!! I lifted the string 1/2 inch and it got perfectly level, so its right at 1/2 off, no big deal as far as the skirtboard, BUT, i DO NOT want the truss supports to be off, i need them to be perfect with the opposite wall, now, this is why i think it is off, the laser level i have does not have the little scre in an out leveling legs on it to get it exact, so what i did was set up a table in the middle of the building and got it as level as i could and set the laser on it, ok, on the level it has the glass leveler with the 2 marks and the bubble has to be between the 2 marks, like any level, well, when i turned the level to the opposite wall, the bubble stayed in the middle, but not exactly in the center of the marks, more to one side of the marks, wich is most likely why its 1/2 inch off..so what can i do guys, i somehow need to make sure the truss supports go up level with the other wall..CTyler, you wanna let me borrow that laser you have?..lol..lol..
HELP!!

 

[rockinmywaypa]

Take your laser transit out of the centre and go as far as you can away from the building to a spot that you can still see all posts. This will let you sight them without swinging the thing around so much. The less it moves the easier it is to stay perfect.

 

[mopower440]

wondering if that would work because everyone here has said to use a self leveling rotary laser level, what i have is just a straight line laser level, used for mounting to a wall and projecting a straight line to align shelfs and stuff like that, what i did was just set it in the center of the building and shot a dot at a post and walked to the post and marked it, then walked back to the laser level and turned it to shoot a dot at the next post, etc..etc..but by the time i got to 360 degrees around it was out a little as compared to where i started and i think thats how i got off on the skirt boards, dont even know if using this would be good even if i could get it perfectly level..?

 

[OhioTC18]

You leveled the table...? Are you sure your level is "true"? I suppose that will open a whole new can of worms here /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.
If you're leveling a table, don't use a 9" torpedo level. Use a good 4' or better level that is true. A smidgen off on a 9" level is a half inch or more on a 4' level......only exagerated on your span from pole to pole.