pole barn

[tgello]

steve, some of the contractors i do work for use 6",3500# fiber mix for the floors in thier shops and park tri axles loaded,cat d8-9 dozers and 100,000# excavators on them with no problems. my concrete guy also mentioned as stated by someone else, that drainage is very important along with keeping the site slitly elevated .......tgello

 

[rdln]

Thanks for the reply, tgello the barn is well elevated. I may not have those heavy of vehicles in the future but wish to be prepared for it or give the next owner the option.

 

[yooperdave]

For truck dock slabs, typically a 8" thick slab is used
with a top and bottom layer of 6x6 W2.9 x W2.9
welded wire fabric. This slab is over 6" to 10" of
compacted granular fill. The slab should have a
compressive strength of 4000 psi, and be air
entrained (5% to 7%) if exposed to freezing and
thawing cycles.

yooperdave

 

[drpepper]

I had a pole barn built to the exact dimensions 30'x50'x10'. It has 2 twelve foot sliding doors. It uses galvanized siding. It was built for $5200. about three years ago. No concrete. It was built for me by a company called Rob-built out of Tahlequah, Oklahoma. They offered painted siding slightly higher. It only took two days for them to put it up!

 

[Carl_NH]

tgello,

I'm late to the post here, having read the other replies, just one thing to offer if you are considering stick built as well, as I found the pricing to be very close to pole barns here.

In monolithic slab construction in NH the codes require a "haunch" which is essentially a 18" deep x 24" wide perimeter with #4 rebar in an upside down J tied every 24" into 4" square 8 gauge wire mesh in the center of the pad.

This is after site prep of course with bank run gravel (1/2" stone with sandy mix) compacted all around 3-5" deep.

In addition, 6 mil poly is recommended to prevent moisture penetration and sweating in the summer, and if heating the bldg 1" or so insulation is optional on the sides and floor before rebar setup.

The footers/framing are 2x12's around the exterior set to the finished height you want (typically 4-6" above final grade)

The pour is 3000# concrete mix, and for a 24x36 building was around 20 yards - $2600 complete with footer framing, rebar, mesh and finish, including the cutting every 12' for expansion/crack prevention. We then framed on top of this with a base of 2 PT 2x6 then std frame up from there.

So far two bldgs done this way (26x42' Garage/Office and 24x36 Barn) are holding up well.

Carl



This is

 

[pajoube]

Carl, very nice.
Do you have cost figure for the one in the picture?
PJ

 

[Carl_NH]

PJ,

$12K materials, $12K labor $2,600 concrete. Includes 18"x24' floor trusses so no interior posts, stairs to second floor, cedar siding, windows and 2 Insl. 9'x8' doors.

It could be done for about $6K less on materials, and probably $3-4K on labor, if you just want T-111 siding, no second floor and homemade sliding doors etc..

I have a materials list in excel if you're interested email me.

Carl

 

[pajoube]

That price is not bad considering what you have. I plan on looking around my home area for pole barn builders and see what kind of bid I can get. I really like your two story concept.
The use will be to store tractor and equipment from the elements, inside repair work and in general keep everything tidy.
PJ

 

[Buck]

tgello,

I've got a 30x40 pole barn slightly elevated in a wet area of my yard. I live in Upstate N.Y. It has a slab floor.

Not even a crack, anywhere.

buck

 

[Carl_NH]

PJ,

Forgot to mention a few facts that made my decision.

1. We have ledge and getting 10-12 posts deep enough for a pole barn was one issue.

2. Price quoted for pole barn complete with same features compared to this stick built was $28K - I provide the holes was the only element, and question.

It needed to match the house and garage, siding, windows etc per my significant other. Only deviation was she said "true mullion windows" like the house, and we had several engaging discussions, and at the end of the day she gave in, based on the cost.

Carl

 

[pajoube]

Thanks for the update, the end result is very nice.
PJ

 

[Anonymous Poster]

For Carl H
I viewed your barn attachment, and was interested in where you obtained plans for the building.
I am located in S. E. Louisiana
Thanks.
VTY;
Mike Hassett
mhassett@bellsouth.net

 

[Carl_NH]

mhassett,

Not sure if you wanted me to reply, but I drew them myself and per the local code enforcement for their files, I had a structural engineer put his stamp of approval on them.

I don't have a scanner otherwise I could post them here. Also there are a number of other posts on TBN about barn design plans if you do a search.

Carl

 

[Golfgar4]

Try <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.circleb.net/stallbarns/>Circle B </A> for a variety of barn plans. And like Carl said, if you want more, just do a search for Barn Plans and you'll find a number of threads that have good info.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

CarlH;
Thank you for your reply.
I have bought several book on garage plans, and searched the internet. However, your barn just had that certain "eye" appal that catches your attention.
VTY;
Mike Hassett
mhassett@bellsouth.net

 

[tdenny]

Carl,

I would love to see your materials list. Nice looking Garage/Office you've got there. I couldn't find your email so I thought I would list mine and perhaps you could send me your Excel spreadsheet. Thanks in advance. tdenny7@hotmail.com

 

[Carl_NH]

Mike,

It's probably due partially to the setting plus the green metal roof - 12/12 pitch and contrast to the siding with the overhangs. The rafters were 20' so had the overhangs same as the house 18" to keep the rain and snow away from the bldg.

One note, put the entry door on an end wall if you live in snow country - stuff slides off and creates a wall. Need to get out the TLB!! Was 5' high 2000-2002 winter.

Also sent the excel ss and more photos to you and tdenny.

Thanks for the nice comments, and attached photos are of the garage/office.

Carl