Tires Popping a Tire Bead

[topbuilder]

Thanks. I'll have to try that. I have always used a tire hammer but this sounds like less it would be less risk of damaging the rim.

 

[PILOON]

LOL, I popped a tire using my FEL, the problem was that my tooth bar made some nice holes in the tire.
(It was scrapped anyhow and I was replacing it)

It is amazing how a little rust around the bead area can make removal difficult.
For that reason a thoroughly clean rim seating area is important as is a lube or sealing paste.

 

[robertm]

Thanks everyone. I'm a bit overloaded right now. Maybe this weekend I'll try your suggestions.

 

[Henro]

Or, although you did not ask, consider getting the front tires foam filled. No more worries about air leaks or flats...worked for me!

Added weight increases stability on side slopes. I ended up getting my rears foam filled too. Now I am comfortable on pretty steep side slopes...don't blink an eye on 30 degree side slopes on the BX. 15 degrees on the larger tractor makes me pucker!

Bill

 

[MRCONCDID]

I have used the side of my bucket many times to break a tire bead, small mower tires up to large truck tires, I have found that rotating the tire between several presses using the bucket, basically loosening the the bead rather than just ripping it off (don't use a cutting edge or tooth bar), you can also press the tire with the loader bucket and hold it, then hit the tire with a large hammer.
As for inserting the tube, it would be alot easier if both beads were broken and you pry off one side only, so you can lift the tire up, place blocks of wood or bricks to hold it up, while the rim is flat on the ground, position the tube evenly around the tire, then pry the tire back on the rim and inflate.

tractor tires can be heavy and stiff, laying the tire out in the sun for a few hours will soften them up a bit too. For those who use either or starting fluid, I take the valve stem core out before setting the bead, this way some of the pressure can escape after the bead is set. ( a little less dangerous). Be careful, fingers don't grow back. and always chain the rim to something it can jump 10 feet when the bead sets. before using either I always try air from a pig ( small tank with a large valve ) while a clip on air line constantly blows in the valve stem. for small tires a clip on air line blowing while I bounce the tire in the vertical position has worked many times for small garden style tires. I only use either as a last resort, I have seen a tire explode, not pretty, the bead had been ripped and the tire blew off the rim while setting the bead, lucky the rim was held down to the tire changing machine.

Just some advice from a former tire changer.
MrC.

 

[dfkrug]

And when it does get a leak you have to dismount to patch, which could be a few hours of
swearing.BTDT. Tubeless though, grab a plug kit and I'm back running in 10 min if I get a punctures

Exactly right. If you put tubes in your wheels, they can't be plugged. The only times I go to tubes is
if the wheel is so rusty that the beads won't seal, even with Slime.

I change all my tractor tires manually. Breaking the beads is much easier than with car or ATV wheels
as there is no lip to overcome.

 

[CincyFlyer]

I had to do this in the field a couple of weeks ago (after I broke off a valve stem.) I just turned the wheels sharply to one side and backed up! Popped that baby off now.

 

[BubbaJr]

To re-seat the tire on the rim, I used a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire, and cinch it up until the tire makes contact with the rim. Then add air until the bead pops, loosen strap, continue to fill with air. Worked great on front tire, never had to try it on rear tire though.

Joe

 

[topbuilder]

"For those who use either or starting fluid, I take the valve stem core out before setting the bead, this way some of the pressure can escape after the bead is set."

Only think I would add to that is, resist the temptation to stop the air from exiting the valve core by putting a finger over it...