Possible 3ph problem

[Bluest]

I think I'm inclined to agree with you winston1. Those two brackets look exactly like the type that are supposed to anchor the stabiliser chains, not support the whole linkage. Plus he way they are arranged puts them in bending. Looks like I might need to spend some money with Hoye! I just wish carriage wasn't so high.

 

[California]

Bluest, I see you are in UK so the Hoye kit might be expensive. But I think you need that kit or whatever you can find locally designed equally strong. My first YM186D (similar hp to your F14D) has been repaired at that point. There are welds re-attaching the lowest part which holds the cross-rod, to a vertical plate that covers most of lower back of the transmission.This vertical plate is also anchored to the towbar receptacle below the axle to share some of the stresses. This assembly that ripped apart from the vertical plate would have been far stronger than those two ears holding your cross-rod - and it got torn off regardless.

[edit - later - see post #14 below].

I suggest study what Yanmar intended at that location and locate the real Yanmar parts, or at least the equivalent of the Hoye kit. I don't think the tractor is complete and ready for hard work as it exists presently.

And Welcome!

 

[normde2001]

Yanmar Tractor Parts: Under_20_HP
You need the assembly winston showed + items E. Would also get items B and C, as yours are homemade jury rigs.

 

[California]

Here's a photo of the 3-point attachment on my first YM186D.

There is a tube that the horizontal rod goes through. Repair welds re-attached this tube to a bracket on the back of the transmission.

The stress of pulling an implement is applied to 'ears' near the ends of the horizontal rod. These 'ears' go forward and are bolted to the sides of the transmission. I surmise these bolts fell out at one time causing the damage repaired by the welds.



I think you need to buy the Hoye component that Winston referenced in Post #3. (or similar that fits your model).

I'll repeat the Hoye photo below my photo. On this version the horizontal tube appears to be part of the drawbar socket assembly under the transmission. Like my version, it has 'ears' near the end of the rod which transfer implement-pull stress to the sides of the transmission.

 

[Bluest]

All this info is great, especially the photogrpahs and last few posts. As far as I can tell there are is noone selling new parts for grey market Yanmars in the UK. I have found one breaker, but no "F" models in at the minute. I'm going to contact them in case than have one from another model that's either the same, or can be adapted. If that fails, my Dad is an experienced fabricator, so I'm going to get him to take a look and see if he can come up with something based on the info you've all helped me with. In fact, we might use this as a project to finally teach me to weld...

Ordering that heavy part from Hoye is going to be a last resort, the carriage and customs charges are a killer. To give you and idea, I ordered a few filters and a manual at Hoye's very reasonable prices but by the time I've paid the customs ransome I'll probably be over the $200 mark! That link bracket will easily end up over $300.

 

[Bluest]

Ok, bit of an update. It turns out there is a good reason why I'm missing the lower link assembly. The four bolt holes, under the transmission, that the assembly should bolt up to are completely stripped.

The UK Yanmar breaker I contacted doesn't have an assembly for sale either.

But fear not, I have a cunning plan. I should be able to open the stripped bolt holes out to a larger size and tap a new thread. I also acquired a good sized piece of 10mm plate for free, courtesy of a very generous local fabrication firm. I've designed a very simple assembly that I'll get mynDad to weld up next week.

I'll post some pics and keep the thread updated as things come together.

 

[Bluest]

Thought I'd try to keep this thread updated as I don't think it's uncommon for these small Japanese tractors to turn up without a 3ph. I think that because a lot of them were used with rotovators that mount directly.

Firstly, if you are in US, don't bother with this, just buy a new lower link assembly from Hoye. It's well priced, and a simple fit. But I'm in the Uk and no one over here sells the part. I could buy from Hoye too, but the post and customs charges make it a major expense.

Secondly, I am not an experienced fabricator and have limited tools so I've had to do the best with what I had. I'm sure many of you could come up with far more elegant solutions, but I ain't that good yet!

Here's a pic of the gathered materials I thought I'd need, along with my home made super simple lower link assembly.

As you can see, the assembly is simply a bit of 10mm mild steel plate, cut into a trapezoidal shape. It has four clearance holes drilled to take M12 bolts. This allows the assembly to bolt to the four threaded holes on the underside of the gearbox casing. This is the same place the real part would attach.

Cylindrical lug things are to take the rod that supports the lower link arm. They were already on my tractor and I'm reusing them. They are screwed to the plate in the pics, but will be welded once I'm happy. They are actually the lugs from the end of some 3ph stabiliser chains.

I also decided to add an old lifting lug which might be handy if I need to drag anything.

The helicoil thread repair kit is there because all four bolt holes on the bottom of the gearbox were stripped. If you put a bolt in, it would just fall out! if you've never used are thread repair kit, it was a lot easier than I expected and they claim the repair is stronger than the original. Here's a pic mid repair...

Once the threads were repaired I bolted it all up for a test fit...

And from underneath...

All that's left now is to have welding lesson ff my Dad and fuse those lugs on in the process. I can then give it a coat of paint, bolt it back on and see if rips apart the forst time I mow...

 

[normde2001]

Hoye lists 2 hinge plates that work with that lower link arm assembly that support the ends of the shaft, but no pic. If you email Aaron I'm sure he would send you a pic from the parts book showing what they look like and how they fit.

 

[kenmac]

excellent repair !!!!! A job well done !!:thumbsup:

 

[California]

Looks good!

I think I would also bolt it into the two bolt holes on the back side below the PTO. Two short piece of angle - one for each bolt to go through - welded to your plate then bolted in there would eliminate downward stress on the holes you repaired beneath the transmission. Something must have tugged on those real hard. I think sharing that stress as many places as possible is still a good idea. Also 'ears' forward from near the ends of the rod seems like a good idea if there is anything on the side of the transmission to bolt them to. My concern is based on the repair welds I pictured in post#14 above [small picture]. There must be some substantial stresses in that area to need a repair like that.