Possible 3ph problem

Bluest · May 28, 2014

Thanks for the comments. As a novice, a second pair of eyes always helps.

I have some steel angle, so bolting up to the two holes on the back near the PTO should be possible. I'll have a look at that some time this week.

I am a bit reluctant to reinstate the hinge plates as the casing is already damaged in that area, I don't know how good the repair was and ripping it open would be a disaster. I'm not doing and ground engagement work, just mowing, so I figured what I have should be plenty strong enough (admittedly that is a total guess...). I could use my left over steel to make my own ears. I'll have to give it more thought.

I think, and hope, my welds (once I've learnt) are likely to be the week point in the system now so if I do overload something that's where it should break.

I'd love to know what the previous keeper did to tear 4 m12 bolts out and crack the gearbox.

Bluest · May 29, 2014

Ok, a bit of progress with amateur-made lower link assembly...

I had a very brief welding lesson on Wednesday night, my Dad then promptly left me with his old arc welder and said "it's all down to practise, I'll leave it with you"!

Now, this is absolutely the first time I've been near a welder, with the exception of my one hour lesson from Dad and watching videos on YouTube. The welds are lumpy, and unsightly but they appear strong enough. The ones on the right I did first and are the worst. Ill grind those back and have another go. I ran outof time tonight. I did managed to incorporate some lugs to bolt up to the back of the gearbox as suggested by you good folks.

California · May 29, 2014

Looks good. I think the tabs greatly reduce stress on those bolts you had to repair underneath.

winston1 · May 29, 2014

I do think the bar or lugs will fail before the bolts holding it on the tractor so you ought to be good to go. :thumbsup:

kenmac · May 29, 2014

On the welds that are lumped up, Try a little more heat . That should flatten out your weld bead

Bluest · May 30, 2014

California said:
Looks good. I think the tabs greatly reduce stress on those bolts you had to repair underneath.

winston1 said:
I do think the bar or lugs will fail before the bolts holding it on the tractor so you ought to be good to go. :thumbsup:

Thanks, the lugs were a good idea, I appreciate the suggestion.

I've ordered my stabiliser chains today, so they should arrive early next week. I can then take it out for test on Wednesday if the weather is good..

Bluest · May 30, 2014

kenmac said:
On the welds that are lumped up, Try a little more heat . That should flatten out your weld bead

I'll give it a try over the weekend. I've not got much headroom though, the little welder is not far from full amps already.

kenmac · May 30, 2014

if the rod is too big for the amps of the machine, Try a little smaller rod .

Bluest · Jun 1, 2014

Kenmac, I ground out the welds and tried again with few more amps. Much better. Thanks for the tip.

I should have figured that out for myself to be honest. My welder has recommended amp range for each rod size, and it was set low for that size rod.

Bluest · Jun 1, 2014

A quick update, the finished item with a coat of paint.

Just waiting for my stabiliser chains to come in the post, then I can go for a test mow.

winston1 · Jun 1, 2014

Nice job.

Bluest · Jun 1, 2014

Thanks! I think I'd still buy the genuine part if I was on your side of the pond. No doubt it will be stronger, and i think it would locate the arms better than mine does. But, there is something satisfying about making an item yourself, from scrap and bits I had hanging around. I'm looking round for an excuse to make something else!

kenmac · Jun 1, 2014

I was a welder in my previous life. The more heat you can stand to weld with , the better the penetration .. The better the penetration,, the stronger the weld . the heat ranges on the welder are really just suggestions. You can bump the heat up a little more. Once you get the hang of it you'll see what I'm talking about. You're doing good,, It just takes a little practice

Bluest · Jun 4, 2014

Bit of progress today. Got the whole of the linkage back together with the new stabilisers. I couldn't get the stabilisers to tension on the outside of the arms, so I'm going to try them on the inside. Not sure if it'll work but it's worth trying. Hopefully, no mower mower/tyre interference...

Won't be able to test for a few days as I'm waiting for a fan belt for the engine.

knotweed · Aug 8, 2014

Congratulations! You did a great job.

Bluest · Aug 8, 2014

Thanks for the positive comments. It all still in one piece and straight so I'm happy. The only thing I'm not 100% with are the stabiliser links. They are awkward and time consuming to alter which makes changing the attachment a chore. Moving them to the outside of the arms would make life easier but then they wont adjust short enough to take up the slack. Need to have a think.

California · Aug 8, 2014

Bluest said:
The only thing I'm not 100% with are the stabiliser links. They are awkward and time consuming to alter which makes changing the attachment a chore.

Where you used bolts at the forward end of the stabilizers, I have pins secured by hairpin clips. Here's the photo I included in post#14 above. It's not too much nuisance to loosen the stabilizers a couple of turns then pull one of the pins temporarily to hook up.

Bluest · Aug 8, 2014

Thanks again California. A fresh pair of eyes can usually spot an simple solution. I've a bag of those clips in the drawer so I'll make the change over the weekend.

Bluest · Aug 10, 2014

Done as you suggested California. Much easier to get the mower on and off now. Bit of a quick fix asI just drilled the bolts to take clips rather than replacing with pins. Well worth 30mins in the garage this morning though.

You might see from the second photo that I spaced the lower arms out a little as the seemed to get into some weird angles sometimes.