Post Driver Efficiency

[DocHeb]

I have searched the forums and found several threads that mention post drivers, but the discussions dealt primarily with installation rather than use. Does anyone have any comments regarding their use, efficiency, or operational difficulties?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[cowboydoc]

I don't have any problems at all with mine. I can run it by myself but it helps to have two people. One to drive the tractor from post to post and one to drive them. Mine is all hydraulic and the I can angle the driver in any position that I want. If the post starts crooked I can change the angle and straighten it out. I can't remember the exact name but it starts with an S. I have had zero problems with it. As far as efficiency I can drive a post every 5 minutes by myself. With someone on the tractor I can drive one about every two minutes.

 

[DocHeb]

What size posts are you driving? Metal or Wood? If wood, do they get very spintered or macerated at the top? I hope to use a driver to make a walkway across some seasonal wetland areas. I'll need to put them in during August when the area is the driest. I worry about using an auger since it would make a "looser" connection with the ground. It would only be as stable as the packing of the fill dirt.

 

[cowboydoc]

Doc,
Not it usually doesn't do anything to the posts at all. I can drive them through almost anything. I drive everything from a 3" post to railroad ties. You just have to pound more with the railroad ties. When I was putting in my fence around the place we could drive the 4" posts about 1 every 2 minutes or so with two people. Once in awhile you will break one but you don't get the tops mashed down. As far as a looser connection with the auger if you tamp it right you will have a tighter connection than by pounding the posts. It takes alot of work to really tamp a post well. As you said the post is only as stable as the packing of the fill dirt.

 

[hess]

DocHeb,

If you are the one who e-mailed me earlier in the summer, I apologize for not responding sooner - we had a baby boy (Connor) in late-June, and I have not been on the computer very often.

I bought a Worksaver post driver for $1900 back in April. It mounts on the 3pt. hitch, can be manually adjusted for level, and can put a string of 4"x4"x8' 's in the ground at a rate of about 1 every 4-5 minutes.

I had to install a power beyond unit for my JD4200 (26hp), unfortunately I lose power to my 3pt. hitch while the post driver is connected. This slows me down a great deal - as I have to shut down the tractor for each disconnect/reconnect between the 3pt. and the driver. Otherwise, I would shave off another minute or two.

If anyone understands a solution to this problem please let me know.

I have put in about 300 posts this summer, and I even built a deck using this machine. If I don't use it for another 5 years it will still be worth the investment in time saved, and the quality of the work that was achieved.

I bought the machine at Kencove Fence Inc. 1-800-536-2683, and ask for Charles.

Good luck, hess.

 

[Nuckman]

We have just finished fencing 10 acres. I used 4-5 inch diameter wood post and metal t-post. We borrowed a Danuser post drive from a friend. I had never seen or used one of this type. I had used one that worked off hydraulics and springs. The Danuser we borrowed has a gear driven wheel assembly to raise a steel beam with a block of steel on top. The beam is then released and gravity does the rest. This is the best and simplest design I've seen. It works quite well. When we started in June it had been dry for a couple of weeks so the wood post were somewhat difficult. I live in NE Georgia where the topsoil isn't very deep. We soon got several inches of rain and the wood post would drive without any trouble. We did drive a couple of RR crossties for gatepost. These had to be angled on the end with a chain saw. We used a FEL to drive the t-post. This works great unless you hit rocks or roots. Out of about 150 t-post, I think we bent one that had to be removed to straighten. Another friend, I found out also has one of the Danuser drivers, made a ring type holder to use to hold t-post to drive with his driver. You wouldn't want hands near a t-post using any type powered driver. Check out http://www.danuser.com for the post driver. The unit I described is very efficient and doesn’t require much tractor power. It would require counter weight if used on a small tractor.

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>made a ring type holder to use to hold t-post to drive with his driver.</font color=blue>

That was probably cheaper, but Danuser also has a "Steel Post Guide Sleeve" (sold separately) to go with their post drivers.

Bird

 

[DocHeb]

Thanks for replying, and congratulations on your new baby! I have the same problem caused by the other end of the childraising continuum. My 9, 13, and 15 year olds keep me off the computer since they're always using it for "something really important, Dad".

 

[DDT]

cowboydoc
Now see what you done! you got my interest. I live in Kansas, at times I'll find rocks that stop the 3 point digger. will the POUNDER drive 4x4's thru this or should I still dream of hyd drive digger for the loader?
DDT

 

[cowboydoc]

DDT,
Sorry but I don't think you're going to drive post through rock either. BUT when I was growing up we used to do contracts for the BLM and for the Forest Service building fence. We had this carbide post digger that would go through anything. Then we had a pounder on a truck that would pound in 4" steel posts. There is equipment out there that will do it, just how much you want to pay for it is another question.