Post-hole digger help

   / Post-hole digger help #11  
<font color="blue"> Then start it turning again after it is almost all the way out of the hole </font>

I expect your technique will work fine. If you have a few holes to dig, try my spinning technique too, and let me know.

OkieG
 
   / Post-hole digger help #12  
What I find works is to dig the hole, then for the final pass I'll go to full depth and shut off the PH digger by pressing on the clutch, just as I start it up and out. This stops the centrifigal force throwing stuff off as it emerges. Then I start/stop the beast once it's out of the hole, which throws the contents off around (not in) the hole. Doesn't work with clay... but worked well today, during which I dug about 50 holes... until the clay killed the bits on the PH digger... /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Chuck
 
   / Post-hole digger help #13  
That little bit of dirt in the bottom of the hole can ruin a fence line.

How you ask?

Simple, especially in clay soil and using concrete setting the posts.

That three inches of loose soil at the bottom will compress to one and half to two inches when the wet season sets in. All it takes is the for moisture to seep down to the loose dirt. The whole post settles, concrete and all.

You can see this in action once you start looking at fences. You'll see one that is new and just as purty as can be. You come by a year later and that darn thing is as wavey as a drunk's white line in the road. You almost want to stop and shake it by the hand, waving at you like that.

I clean my holes. It's a little thing. But it's the kind of little thing that allows me to drive down the highway and see fences I put up ten years ago and not duck my head or look away in shame.

I have a skid steer with an hydraulic auger. My minimum hole is one feet across and three feet deep.

It goes like this. I put the pilot or fishtail centered on my mark.

One thing about the marks. A fella or lady will pull a string from end to end. They will then mark off their holes centering on the string. They dig the holes. Then they put back up the string and then wonder why there isn't enough room in the hole for the post to be plumb without being way over to the side of the hole.

Pull your string. I use my eye, wind don't mess with the eye like it does the string. It also doesn't sag over distance either, love that eye. Mark your holes for distance. And then move over your alignment mark so that your string line will be against your post. That way your posts will be in the center of your holes. Looks better, works better, is better.

I drill down with the auger. One thing I have to be aware of and some of you face the same thing. That's my boom on my skid loader travels on an arc. So as it goes down I have to adjust the position of the tractor.

I go down to thirty inches. I then jump out the door. My tractor is a JCB165HF, the one and only skid loader with a door. I grab my concrete hoe off the tractor and pull all the dirt away from the hole. I get back into the tractor and lift the auger out without it turning since I stopped. I back up and spin the dirt off the auger where it won't get back into the hole.

I drop the auger back into the hole and then go down to thirty six to thirty nine inches. I stop the auger and then lift it out, back up, spin it clean, go to the next hole.

I come back through with my backwards post hole diggers and pull out that last couple of inches if the ground is dry. If it's wet the hole is usually clean as a whistle.

Let's pretend you're digging in clay. You get down about eighteen inches and your auger binds up. You're stuck, no go down, no come up, no spin, you're up to your butt in alligators trying to juggle ripe fish.

What would be ideal would be a teflon coating on your auger flite you think. Maybe if you sprayed WD40 on it between holes crosses your mind.

Nuttin' to it as the pecan picker says. One quart of water.

I've got a hundred gallon propylene tank most folks use for chemicals when spraying. Power washer types also have them for those jobs when they don't have water close.

I strap mine down to the top of the tractor when the clay is just wrong, not wet enough but not dry enough. I have a hose hanging down and a sprayer handle. When I feel it starting to bog I shoot a little water into the hole and it's like I turbo charged it. Spins like a heart of a sixth grade boy when she walks into the room.

Doesn't take much, just a bit now and then, sorta like noticing your wife's dress or hair style etc.
 
   / Post-hole digger help #14  
I've been waitin' for this post. Love the similes! One question, which you probably have answered elsewhere but I can't find it. Do you put any concrete in posts that are not corner posts or the main support posts? Would you mind describing your concrete technique?
 
   / Post-hole digger help #15  
wroughtn_harv - Great reply! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Lots of good info. When we recently drilled several holes for a house foundation, we ran into the same issues several of you have. Can't say we found any solutions, but I did find that my new 5 HP Honda two man earth auger was quite a bit faster than my cousin's Ford 3910 PHD. I think his bit was dull.
But this does bring up a question. About 32 inches under my topsoil I hit sandstone. Needless to say the "bit stops there". Should I be able to "punch" through with a good bit on a PTO PHD?
 
   / Post-hole digger help #16  
Henro
What kind of PHD are you getting
I picked up a Leinbach but haven't used it yet
Bartman
 
   / Post-hole digger help #17  
Evening Jonathan,

Sorry about the similies, just can't talk without waving my hands or making pictures. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

<font color="blue">Do you put any concrete in posts that are not corner posts or the main support posts? Would you mind describing your concrete technique?</font>

I'm a firm believer in too much concrete. The logic goes like this, resistance to movement is increased by the size of the thing resisting said movement. If you put a post, say a two and three eighths inch pipe one, into the ground three feet you have only the surface area of the post in the ground resisting lean. If that same post is in a twelve inch concrete footing the resistance is umpteen times more. In some instances, bigger is really better, this is one of them.

If I'm using bagged premix concrete I use Maximizer. It's just better on about six different levels.

If I'm doing it fenceman style, in the wheel barrow, it goes like this. Since you only mix enough for one post at a time the mix is loaded in layers. Five shovel fulls of sand and gravel to one shovel full of portland cement. It takes some thinking sometimes. If you're loading from separate piles of rock and sand then you have to do two of one and three of the other. Then the next layer reverse it, two of the other, three of the one. Most knowledgeable sand and gravel supply places have remix. Remix is when they take a scoop of concrete sand and a scoop of rock and mix them up. That's the dog to hunt with. If you're putting big posts in little holes you want the rock to be pea gravel. If you're doing it right and putting posts in big holes three quarter rock is the right thing.

You keep building layers until the wheelbarrow is heaping. Hopefully you are using a six cubic foot contractor's wheelbarrow and you have plenty of air in the tire. A word to the wise is only fair here. If you're not used to working with a wheelbarrow verus just pushing one where you want it to go then you might be careful. Manhandling one of these wheelbarrows with about five hundred pounds of sand and gravel in it takes that little bit of understanding about just who is boss. The wheelbarrow full of concrete is. You're just there to hold it up so it don't fall over and look silly while moving from post to post.

Water is always first put in a five gallon bucket before going into the wheelbarrow. That's a cardinal rule. It's sorta like why there is men's rooms and women's rooms and you always rest in the one most appropriate to your gender.

Actually it gives you more control over the amount of water that goes into the wheelbarrow. It is important. Too wet a mix won't support the post while setting up. Too dry and it isn't going to set up strong.

You have a wheelbarrow with the right mix in it and you want to know how a fenceman does it, right?

First thing is you have a D handle round point shovel that is clean and you have developed or are developing a meaninful relationship with it. Using said shovel you make a little bowl in the mix at the front of the wheelbarrow. You put in a little water. You make a little bit of concrete and put it around the post. You now have a bigger bowl. You add more water and make more concrete.

Here's where it gets tricky. The rooky will try to do all the work with their arms. It'll wear you out faster'n a five year old after two Hershey bars.

The secret is to place your leading leg where you thigh is against the tub at the front of the wheelbarrow. You are then using that leg, your back, your belly, your arms, and your constitution to pull and push the shovel back and forth making concrete. You can do this all day. Lots of fencemen do it this way day in and day out.

I have a nine cubic foot concrete mixer. You can rent one most reputable rental outlets.

The formula is simple. First you put in ten gallons of water, two of the ever important five gallon buckets full preferred. Then you toss in one ninety four pound bag of portland cement, bag and all. But do try to gut the bag on the mixing wings in the mixer as you toss it in. Think of the paper and plastic being recycled if that makes you feel better. Or you can think of it as fibre, sorta like Cheerios if you will.

Then you add equal parts of sand and rock until the mix is just right, not too dry, not too wet, just right. You should have three contractor wheelbarrows full if you've done it right.

If I'm where there's going to be grass I keep the concrete down about six inches from the top. That allows the grass to grow right up to the post.

I also like to keep it down if it's around horses, especially if it's a small area. Horses will get hurt standing still. They will walk a fence. Over time they will move the dirt. If they move the dirt away from the concrete around the post you now have a hazard for the horse. Chances are they won't get hurt. But if one is spooked and catches that ragged piece of concrete just wrong, keep the concrete down.

Some people bell their holes, make them bigger at the bottom than at the top. I think it's a good idea if you have the time and inclination. It's definately better than having a cone shaped hole like you get when an auger is never cared for and it wears away and becomes smaller at the bottom than it is at the top. That shape of a hole is begging to heave out under pressure of freeze--thaw or wet--dry cycling.

Now you know all I do about mixing concrete for setting posts.

It's late, sleep is calling, but first there is a shower, boss's rules. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Post-hole digger help #18  
Evening Keith,

There are two ways to get through rock with an auger. One is using lots of weight and a bit that's designed to chisel the rock breaking pieces off as it goes down. The other is not as aggressive a tooth pattern and using lots of weight but shaving the rock.

Jiffy Products in Dallas has some great options and wonderful advice, you might want to check with them. There's also a great thread where Don (centex) went through the learning process and did a great job in some real hard rock.

It's late, gotta go, need that beauty sleep, hasn't worked the first fifty four years, but better late than never. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / Post-hole digger help #19  
Harv,

Here's the thread started by Centex: Digging post holes.

I have it marked as one of my 11 favorite threads - but it's interesting that most of my favorite threads have significant contributions by you. Thanks for your refreshing input. Your post volume decreased for a while and I was worried you had tired of TBN. Keep up the good posts.
 
 

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