Power landscape rake - Woods and Harley the same?

[Reg]

His rake has a floating link connection. And yes on both the hydro angle and barrier, I usually set the barrier high on the first pass incase I unearth some thing I wasn't expecting. I also remove the side barriers for my intial passes unless there's signifigant grading to do.

Matt

Mine also has the floating top link slot and I do use it.
I was thinking of some of the rapidly changing contours (rolling ?) areas around houses that I have done.

It makes the house somewhat more attractive to sort of stand it up on a mound like that and (here in New England) seems to be done for drainage and that olde fashioned Yankee notion of being able to have a basement ("cellar", if you wish) that isn't REALLY below grade and therefore not QUITE as subject to flooding (-:

The floating top link doesn't allow enough movement for those areas and twiddling with the 3 pt and hydraulic top link at the same time is POSSIBLE, it is just easier/simpler to disconnect the top link entirely and use the 3pt.

 

[Reg]

I second the tip about keeping spare nuts and bolts with you - also TIGHTEN stuff frequently.

Kinda hard to believe, but I am actually missing a whole pinch bolt and lever nut from a gauge wheel, so I'm down to wrenches on that side.
Not that I adjust my gauge wheels very often and maybe that was the problem, I hadn't put a hand on it for too long (-:

Yeah, my technoid background says it is poor design to select unsuitable thread profiles, but it isn't my beat on GlenMac/Harley/Woods day.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

It's funny you mentioned the gauge wheels, I've had most of my fastener issues with them. I had the entire bearing fall apart on me one day. I guess my top and tilt spoils me since I've never had to unhitch it. But good tip just the same.

On the design comment, I've looked at the Landpride unit and it looks to be a bit better. Alot of the nuts and bolts are doubled up and overall looks a little robust.

Matt