Power Rake Project

[kruszert]

I am just getting started putting a parts list together to make a power rake similar to a harley rake or scape rake by ATI. After pricing used ones I realized I couldn't justify or afford the real thing but I think I can build one that will work.

I have been through past posts by Spudland Dave and Leveller and am planning on making something similar - - - if you guys are out there I would appreciate an update - - anything you would change? Speeds turned out okay? Any problems with the pivot set up? Would you change the size of the teeth? I am planning on using a rear pipe roller rather than gauge wheels similar to the scape rake hoping to flatten the surface a little - - see any problems with this?

The plan so far is to use 60-2 chain and sprockets, 6" pipe and make the frame using 8" channel sides and a box of 8" channel for the cross member. Nothing special about these materials except that I have them.

Finding a 2:1 gearbox is becoming a challange and I may use a 1:1 gearbox and reduce further using the chain sprockets.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated,
Reggie

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Your plans sound good... Personally I wouldnt change anything, have a bunch of hours on it now and about the only thing I can say is I'm glad I built it, by far the best attachment a person could use for landscaping.

I'd reccomend finding a 2:1 box if you can...

Actually...thinking about it, the one thing I would change (and am working on) is making the gauge wheels hydraulically adjustable from the cab. Right now I change it with the HTL, which works, but IMO it would be slicker with hydraulic gauge wheels like Harley has on some of the 7' units...

 

[kruszert]

Thanks for the reply - - I had given up on any additional feedback since the post had gone to page 3 with no response.

The design changes a little as materials become available. I am using a
4x4x 1/4 tube for the main cross piece, end plates are 6" x 3/8" flat bar and I will weld on some 3/16" flat bar to make the chain and bearing guards. I plan to start welding on the end plates this week end and putting together some of the big stuff but this project is kind of a fill in with the other stuff going on right now I don't expect to have it working for several months.

I did give up an a 2:1 gearbox - - bought a 1:1 box from Surplus Center. I needed the gearbox to continue the steel frame design. I bought the smallest 60-2 chain sprocket I could find, 11 tooth, and a 20 tooth driven sprocket - -not quite 2:1 but close. I was limited on the driven sprocket by the size of the flange bearing - - trying to keep the lower plate as small as possible.
The gearbox is not as heavy duty as I would like - - rated for 32 hp with occasional use at 40 hp. My tractor has about 30hp at the pto so I am close
to the gearbox rating. I plan to put a slip clutch between the geaerbox and the drive sprocket. Hopefully this will help keep things from coming apart.

I plan to use a roller on the back instead of gauge wheels and it will be hydraulically adjustable - - this design came from the Scape Rake from ATI.

One question for you - - did you install a barrier on top of the bar. If so how much space did you leave over the teeth? I plan to go to the local rental store and look closely at a Harley Rake when they get it back from rental to get a few dimensions.

Thanks for the response,
Reggie

 

[muddstopper]

Personally, I would giveup on the pto gearbox design altogether. Consider instead a pto driven hydraulic pump and a stator rotor motor to spin your rake. This will give you a forward and reverse option while rakeing, you will find you cant always go in one direction and being able to rake while backing up is a very big plus. Another plus, is being able to add hydraulic angleing capacities for throwing the debries out which ever side you need to.
Take a look at the Ventrac series of tractors and their power rake attachment for more ideals. I have one of those and its the best thing since sliced bread.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Thanks for the reply - - I had given up on any additional feedback since the post had gone to page 3 with no response.

No prob...I've been BUSY lately...we have a 5 week old at home now, in addition to our 21 month old....needless to say things are hectic.

I did give up an a 2:1 gearbox - - bought a 1:1 box from Surplus Center. I needed the gearbox to continue the steel frame design. I bought the smallest 60-2 chain sprocket I could find, 11 tooth, and a 20 tooth driven sprocket - -not quite 2:1 but close. I was limited on the driven sprocket by the size of the flange bearing - - trying to keep the lower plate as small as possible.
The gearbox is not as heavy duty as I would like - - rated for 32 hp with occasional use at 40 hp. My tractor has about 30hp at the pto so I am close
to the gearbox rating. I plan to put a slip clutch between the geaerbox and the drive sprocket. Hopefully this will help keep things from coming apart.

Hmm....how wide did you go? I know with my 74" in the proper soil conditions "givin her heck" I can make the 3520 feel the rake is back there...I'd be kinda worried about that small box. That being said, what you COULD do is mount the box off center, and in the center mount a shaft with a pulley, make a belt jackshaft...would be a torque limiter/safety clutch AND you could also take the RPM down 2:1 with that jackshaft...Just thinkin out loud..

One question for you - - did you install a barrier on top of the bar. If so how much space did you leave over the teeth? I plan to go to the local rental store and look closely at a Harley Rake when they get it back from rental to get a few dimensions.

Yes I did mount a barrier..I originally had it 1/2" above the teeth, but that was wayy too close...I ran it like that for 20 minutes and moved it up far away, essentially "disabling" it, just havent had time to tweak the settings, but it works great even with no barrier.

Muddstopper....Hydraulic driven was something I had considered as well...and in the end, well you can see which way I went. I'm happy with mechanical drive.. If I could have gotten the componentry to do Hydraulic drive for the same price, I probably would have.

 

[muddstopper]

Spud, if your happy with it and it works, thats all that matters.

When questioning part cost, once you start factoring in pto shafts, slip clutches, gear boxes, sprockets and chains, bearing and jackshafts, or, a hydraulic pump and motor and control valve, and a few hoses, then I guess cost would be relative to what you have to actually purchase new, what you have on hand, or what you can find salvage.

 

[kruszert]

Again - - thanks for the reply,

I agree with your concern about the gearbox but at the price I thought I would give it a try. I plan to mount the gearbox with a spacer underneath so if it fails I can fit a larger gearbox. I made a stump grinder a couple of years ago and used a 1:1.46 gearbox with 60 hp rating - - it stood up well to the abuse. If I find another one of those on ebay I will get it but for now this will have to do.

I plan to fit a barrier on the rake but at least I now have an idea of spacing.

Muddstopper - - I did look at Harley Rakes that use hydraulic motors - - they still have a chain, sprockets and bearings with the hydraulic motor mounted up I guess to keep it from being damaged but for me the real reason for going with the PTO was that I don't know much (or anything) about using hydraulic motors. I have two sets of hydraulic lines on the tractor but both will be used on the rake so not sure if I needed a tank, filter or what so I went with what I know.

 

[muddstopper]

I have a small stump grinder also. I got it when I purchased my Steiner tractor a few years ago. Its factory made and I dont have the spec on the gear box, but it has been a real money maker. Great for working in landscapes, but I turn down large jobs with many big stumps simply because its not the right piece of productive equipment for that type of work. Also, its pretty hard on the 31hp diesel engine of my little tractor.

As for the chains and sprockets on my power rake, it doesnt have any. The stator rotor motor is direct coupled to the rake/roller assembly and only has the two hydraulic hoses coming from the directional control valve. Only one flange bearing (1 1/2inch I think) is used on the opposite end from the stator rotor. The hydraulic pump is also mounted to the unit and is driven by a bseries belt off the engine. A electric clutch is used to engage the pump. The frame of the machine is also the oil reservoir. Oil filter is external mount, screwon type.

My rake is a two point hitch attachment that hooks to the front of my Ventrac tractor and isnt meant to be hooked to the back of a farm type tractor. I suspect if I adapthed it to a larger tractor, I would probably break it in half. LOL. Still I think it is a pretty good design and if properly beafed up would work well as a threepoint attachment.

To adapth my rake to a three point hitch mount would of couse mean fabricating the hitch. Also removeing the current hydraulic pump and changing it to either a PTO driven pump or using the tractor remotes. A few longer hydraulic hoses and a little plumbing and it would be good to go.