jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Builder, thanks for the reply
Steve
Steve
I've found here in rocky New England that I almost always need to first run my box blade with the scarifiers down to bust up the hard pack and displace the rocks. Then the harley rake easily windrows the rocks and grinds up the soil. A local hydro seeder I do site pre for actually likes to add in any soil ammendments (like lime etc.) while I'm raking the soil. He claims that soil test conducted at Umass show how effective this method is? It makes sense after seeing the end results of the established lawns. There is one area that I've found the rake to be lacking. It is supposed to be able to be run on exsisting lawns and reduce the thatch and grass back to dirt and compost. I've found it takes way too much time with the rake to get the results I'm after. I'd much rather run a tiller over the area then run the rake. The tiller does a better job of breaking the soil clots down.
Matt![]()
Harley rakes have an optional scarifier tooth bar that goes in front of the rotating drum. They are used to till the ground up & bust up the crust so the rake can dig down further.
I have also seen them with a leveling screed that drags behind the drum, too.
I don't think my 7'-6" Landpride Power rake has that option, but I hope it does because I need it for a big upcoming job-lots of clay & hard soil.
I search today and can't find any rake with the options you listed. Are you confusing the rake with a pulverizer? I've seen older rakes with different drums and a spring tooth harrow type thing on the front. But there's not site that has a setup like your talking about.
Matt