Power source for electric fence charger

[TedLaRue]

I've searched the archives and read a bunch of threads about electric fences, but I would like this thread to be limited to the power source (excluding how many wires, what type of wire or poly-wire/tape, importance of grounding, etc.).

To power an electric fence charger I know of three options:
1) 120VAC house power
2) 12VDC battery
3) Solar panel units

I would like to hear others discuss advantages and/or disadvantages to each of those power sources assuming the fence is well grounded and uses the best type of wire or poly-wire/tape.

I've used 120VAC and 12VDC but I won't relate my experiences yet because I want to see if others have had similar experiences.

I've not used a solar panel unit partly for fear that the pretty expensive unit could be stolen or trashed, and partly because I didn't know how well the battery held up or how much it cost to replace it.

So...what's your experience/preference and why?

 

[MicroPilot]

I know this is going to be off topic according to the OP's request, but I've used all three power sources for fencing horses, and it really doesn't matter that much. The battery sources are generally only a few hundred to one thousand volts, where the 120V units can produce tens of thousands of volts. But to an animal a shock is a shock. Once the animals get zapped, usually no more than twice, they stay away from the fence lines.


The most important thing for a reliable electric fence is a good ground, and keep the weeds outa the fence.

 

[texasjohn]

I use one 110 volt, high impedence, high voltage fence charger rated for 100+miles of fence for 200 acres.

Even with surge protection AND lightening protection AND good grounding, the charger gets knocked out by lightening about every two years. I've located a fellow who repairs the circuit boards and keep several around. When one goes out, I replace the board. About half the time the problem gets into the unit from the 110 plug and the other half from the fence itself.

My opinion, neither battery nor solar power (really battery) units could maintain a sufficient charge on the fence in my situation.

My recommendation, buy two identical high impedence units, use 110 power. Use one to back up the other when it fails.

 

[MossRoad]

I use a battery powered unit that has a solar charger for the battery. It is fine for little garden invading critters, but my guess is large animals like horses or cattle would just charge (pun intended) through it.

 

[TedLaRue]

Thanks for the replies.

I've encountered advantages and disadvantages with both battery and 120VAC powered units.

The 120VAC units must (obviously) be located near a 120VAC source. And if there's any kind of short from the fence to ground (even wet weeds), I get a clicking on the phone line. I could tell when I had such a short by the reduction in the speed of my dial-up internet connection. I also had a 120VAC unit die probably because of lightning. I don't know if battery operated units are as vulnerable to lightning as the 120VAC units are. This quote from TexasJohn

About half the time the problem gets into the unit from the 110 plug and the other half from the fence itself.

suggests that battery operated units might be less prone to lightning damage.

With the battery operated units (without a solar charger), the batteries would run down quickly if there was a short (like the fence wire touching a T-post or a lot of wet weeds touching the wire). I've also had problems keeping batteries charged. I think the usual cheapo lawn/garden tractor batteries (about $20) shouldn't be allowed to run completely down. But the marine type "deep cycle" batteries are pretty expensive (around $60). A good battery fully charged will keep the fence going for a couple of months, but if there's a short, the battery runs down quickly.

The battery operated chargers I use are Parmak brand rated for "25 miles", and they deliver plenty of voltage (as much as the 120VAC Parmak units rated for "25 miles").

 

[QRTRHRS]

I had one smaller area that I powered with a solar charger. I think I got nearly six years out of the original battery. Given a choice, I would use 110 but depending on your layout, isolating a section here and there with a solar charger may work.

Grounding is ever important no matter the system. Three rods at the charger for a big system is a must. For really long ground returns, make one fence line a ground with periodic ground rods here and there around the system.

My previous farm was bad for lightning. On that farm, I did have the third row of four set up as a ground. I had those large shunt switches on both ground and positive which I would throw if a storm came through and I was home. Never lost a charger with the system grounded but that may have been just luck because lightning can easily jump across a switch.

 

[TedLaRue]

QRTRHRS,

Thanks, this is the kind of information I'm seeking.

After your six years of using the solar/battery unit, were you able to replace the battery and keep on using it? And if so, was it an expensive special battery, or some generic kind?

 

[WTA]

I think a very well designed ground system is a lot more important than the charger. Any charger will work just fine almost but if you can't complete the circuit back to the charger when an animal gets in the wire then they are worthless. We have long dry spells here very often so I had to improvise. On wire on every fence line is a direct line back to the ground wire on the charger. There is also one 15 foot copper rod driven into the ground on every one of those lines. I have 4 15 foot copper ground rods connected up behind the barn near the charger. Even with all that it doesn't always work when the ground gets really dry unless they touch the hot and ground wire together. That hurts! I saw my kid get bit by it one night and sparks jumped between his teeth. It burns the weeds down too quite effectively. All I have is a regular old gallagher plug in charger. Nothing fancy.

 

[MossRoad]

On my solar charged system, the original battery lasted at least 5 years. I went to Rural King this spring and bought a replacement. It was underr $20.00 and about 1.5" square by 5" long. Like I mentioned before, mine is a small unit. But they had all different size batteries for all different size units.

 

[texasjohn]

Ted, you haven't indicated the purpose of your fence nor the total area you are seeking to enclose. This makes a difference. I have cattle

What folks have said about ground rods, ground wires, etc. is all true. Particularly in a drought situation, which I am in right now.

I believe battery driven chargers are for small areas

I wouldn't touch a weed burner because of fire risk

I've got 4 of the 25 mile chargers... high intensity...they peter out when used on lots of fence... particularly with a weed load. I no longer use them, they were my education re fence chargers.

Only thing satisfactory for a large area, large animals and large weed load is a high intensity, high voltage charger.... 100 miles rated. This kind of charger punches the charge thru the weeds and keeps going.

Note that I have not mentioned brand, I don't think that matters. What matters is the number of Joules the charger can supply... read those numbers and you will understand how powerful that particular charger is. More is better.