Power SSQA control, manual diverter valve? Or what other options?
- Thread starter Fallon
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jonsstihl
Veteran Member
Got my parts today, a few problems If anyone else is going to do this listen to Fallon and get the 6 inch stroke it will work and be easier to mount. problem
with the 8 inch stroke is that the eyes of the cylinder are too big. when the pins are latched the attachment point is too close to the side of the ssqa adapter to fit the cylinder end. I will have to modify the brackets to increase the stroke on the retracted side. my available stroke with the stock manual setup is 8 1/4 inches but It think there is more than that of interference.
Other problem that maybe Fallon hadn't thought of or atleast hadn't mentioned is the speed. at 9 GPM the pins will take .2 seconds to latch and .1 seconds to unlatch. Rather explosive. even at half the flow its still .4 and .2 seconds
I'm planning on use 1/4 inch hoses but I don't think that will be enough to slow things down. anyone have a source for restrictors with available ports being SAE 6 and JIC 6. what
anyone have an idea what the grand L40 series hydraulic flow is at idle.
with the 8 inch stroke is that the eyes of the cylinder are too big. when the pins are latched the attachment point is too close to the side of the ssqa adapter to fit the cylinder end. I will have to modify the brackets to increase the stroke on the retracted side. my available stroke with the stock manual setup is 8 1/4 inches but It think there is more than that of interference.
Other problem that maybe Fallon hadn't thought of or atleast hadn't mentioned is the speed. at 9 GPM the pins will take .2 seconds to latch and .1 seconds to unlatch. Rather explosive. even at half the flow its still .4 and .2 seconds
I'm planning on use 1/4 inch hoses but I don't think that will be enough to slow things down. anyone have a source for restrictors with available ports being SAE 6 and JIC 6. what
anyone have an idea what the grand L40 series hydraulic flow is at idle.
MtnViewRanch
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You need .030 orifice. What you need is exactly what I make for my 2" dia cylinders.
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
thanks for the info,
my cylinder is a 1 inch cylinder with a .625" rod. 8" stroke. I wanted to keep it small so there would be less clutter out there between the loader frame and bucket.
what kind of flow rate can I expect with a system pressure of 2600 psi and approx 9 GPM of flow
my cylinder is a 1 inch cylinder with a .625" rod. 8" stroke. I wanted to keep it small so there would be less clutter out there between the loader frame and bucket.
what kind of flow rate can I expect with a system pressure of 2600 psi and approx 9 GPM of flow
MtnViewRanch
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I'm not sure, but it sounds like you need even a smaller orifice. The .030 are hard enough to do, smaller,
good luck. jonsstihl
Veteran Member
.030" is one small drill bit. too bad the third function has no feather ability. It sure would come in handy.
I got my TnT from him. Has the built in restrictors, I'm guessing .030. Takes a few seconds, maybe 3 to extend or retract the toplink & is about right. I'd want my SSQA to operate a but faster as you don't need to feather it or get the precision you do on TnT cylinders.
All the 40 & 60 series Grand Ls have about the same flow rate, 10gpm give or take.
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
Thats the plan start small then move up if I need to. I can always do a flow control valve if it comes to that.
I am going to run some tests with my splitter tomorrow to estimate the flow rate at idle.
I am going to run some tests with my splitter tomorrow to estimate the flow rate at idle.
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
Just a quick update. my grand L4740 flows around 3.6 GPM at idle with cold (room temperature) hydraulic fluid.
and it is right around 9.4 GPM at 2500 RPM so I am a little less worried. .5 seconds extend and .3 seconds retract. with no restrictor.
thanks to the calculator on surplus centers website.
a few issues with fitting the cylinder on the attachment point but nothing a couple of washers can't fix.
I think I will be OK with the 8 inch stroke by grinding a little but off the handles so they retract a little more but it is going to be close. there is not much metal to grind off of the eye on the cylinder but i can compensate with the handles
anyone have any tips for welding on a cylinder rod. I will need to extend the cylinder by 12 1/4 inches will the chrome contaminate the weld. what do you use to protect the rod since I want to weld it with the rod extended all the way to protect the seals. I would use tape but I think the heat from the weld will make a mess of it.
and it is right around 9.4 GPM at 2500 RPM so I am a little less worried. .5 seconds extend and .3 seconds retract. with no restrictor.
thanks to the calculator on surplus centers website.
a few issues with fitting the cylinder on the attachment point but nothing a couple of washers can't fix.
I think I will be OK with the 8 inch stroke by grinding a little but off the handles so they retract a little more but it is going to be close. there is not much metal to grind off of the eye on the cylinder but i can compensate with the handles
anyone have any tips for welding on a cylinder rod. I will need to extend the cylinder by 12 1/4 inches will the chrome contaminate the weld. what do you use to protect the rod since I want to weld it with the rod extended all the way to protect the seals. I would use tape but I think the heat from the weld will make a mess of it.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
Look forward to photos!
Project plans to live by... if you can't make it perfect, make it adjustable.
On my first version if my project (linear actuator motor is parallel to rod) i just used a couple (long nut) & allthread on one end. Made it nice & adjustable when I didn't know what I was completely doing. On the 2nd version (motor is 90 degrees to rod). I thought I had a better idea of tolerances & it was just bar stock. One of the ears on the 2nd actuators had a crack in it for a year (but worked fine) because I thought wrong.
The actuator for version 1 was rated for 100 or 200lbs (think v 2 was 500lbs). So even without the mechanical advantage of the lever arms, not a lot of force is needed. All things considered I'd recommend making your brackets weak. It will be easier to replace them than work on repairing your loader arms or other SSQA parts. I looked for the smallest diameter (also cheapest) cylinder I could find.
Got one from Baily Hydraulics on some sale a year ago according to the receipt I dug up in my Email.
CYLINDER WELDED 1 X 8 0.625 ROD MAXIM WSB 3000 PSI*$41.00
A 1" diameter cylinder has an area of about 0.8 square inches. Times 2,500psi & you get over 10x as strong as my v1 actuator and over 5x as strong as v2. Overkill by any measure. I figure the waleaker the better in that regard. That rod is thicker than the hollow tube on both actuators as well. I'd worry about making it to strong eather than not strong enough unless you can find a stupidly small cylinder.
On my linear actuators they had basically a cut in the end of the rod bar stock would fit in to attach & I used small pins through the holes in the rods to secure things. Unfortunately eyes in the end of your cylinders give you no lateral stability. But if you sandwich/clamp a bracket on either side it would give you a moderately strong connection. Probably strong enough to do the job, but weak enough to let your bracket twist before other more expensive parts.
I did have to weld a brace to turn the bar stock into a T so it wouldn't bend sideways on one of the versions.
On my first version if my project (linear actuator motor is parallel to rod) i just used a couple (long nut) & allthread on one end. Made it nice & adjustable when I didn't know what I was completely doing. On the 2nd version (motor is 90 degrees to rod). I thought I had a better idea of tolerances & it was just bar stock. One of the ears on the 2nd actuators had a crack in it for a year (but worked fine) because I thought wrong.
The actuator for version 1 was rated for 100 or 200lbs (think v 2 was 500lbs). So even without the mechanical advantage of the lever arms, not a lot of force is needed. All things considered I'd recommend making your brackets weak. It will be easier to replace them than work on repairing your loader arms or other SSQA parts. I looked for the smallest diameter (also cheapest) cylinder I could find.
Got one from Baily Hydraulics on some sale a year ago according to the receipt I dug up in my Email.
CYLINDER WELDED 1 X 8 0.625 ROD MAXIM WSB 3000 PSI*$41.00
A 1" diameter cylinder has an area of about 0.8 square inches. Times 2,500psi & you get over 10x as strong as my v1 actuator and over 5x as strong as v2. Overkill by any measure. I figure the waleaker the better in that regard. That rod is thicker than the hollow tube on both actuators as well. I'd worry about making it to strong eather than not strong enough unless you can find a stupidly small cylinder.
On my linear actuators they had basically a cut in the end of the rod bar stock would fit in to attach & I used small pins through the holes in the rods to secure things. Unfortunately eyes in the end of your cylinders give you no lateral stability. But if you sandwich/clamp a bracket on either side it would give you a moderately strong connection. Probably strong enough to do the job, but weak enough to let your bracket twist before other more expensive parts.
I did have to weld a brace to turn the bar stock into a T so it wouldn't bend sideways on one of the versions.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
For my hydraulic ssqa I used 7/8" bore cylinders and the workport reliefs set at 1200psi which works out to about 720lbs force on the locking pins. That is much more force than is needed.
Industrial Toys
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I opted for the HORST SSQA conversion with hydraulic coupler on my Kubota Wheel Loader. I ALWAYS raise the loader and check to make sure I see the tips of the locking pins poking out. At one point I had even painted them yellow to make them easier to see.
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
I have double and triple checked my measurements and because I am keeping the stock handles I can actuate the cylinder manually at first to double check my measurements.
Your idea of adding a weak point is a good one. originally I was planning on extending the cylinder with a solid rod approximately the same size as the cylinder rod but now I may just use a 1/4 inch rod so that it will bend before anything breaks.
Your idea of adding a weak point is a good one. originally I was planning on extending the cylinder with a solid rod approximately the same size as the cylinder rod but now I may just use a 1/4 inch rod so that it will bend before anything breaks.
Last edited:
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
Phase 1 complete. the cylinder is modified and cycles well manually I may have to grind a little more off the brackets to give me a little more slack on the retract end of the cycle. on the extend I have about a 1/16th of slack before the ends hit the ssqa bracket
here are some pics
here are some pics
Attachments
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
I had a moment of clarity and decided to use anti splatter nozzle gel to protect the cylinder from splatter. worked like a charm. I decided against the 1/4 rod idea because I felt like it was too weak to even hold up the cylinder.
downsizingnow48
Elite Member
So looks good got the hydraulics yet?
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
yes, I have all the parts except for the hoses. But I am hoping my local hydraulic shop is reasonably prices that way I can get just the hose ends from him so I can place everything and then have the hoses made
jonsstihl
Veteran Member
here are a few pics of the setup. If I had to do it again I would probably use live swivels and come out at 90 degrees at the cylinder so the hoses would be more tucked out of the way
the shield on the cylinder is just a ABS drain pipe that has been slotted to fit. It may get upgraded to metal pipe if it breaks.
the tees on the third function QD's actually solved a problem I had because the bottom QD was so close to the cross tube it was hard to get a good grip on the outer shell when connecting.
the shield on the cylinder is just a ABS drain pipe that has been slotted to fit. It may get upgraded to metal pipe if it breaks.
the tees on the third function QD's actually solved a problem I had because the bottom QD was so close to the cross tube it was hard to get a good grip on the outer shell when connecting.
