Buying Advice Power-Trac 1430

ponytug · Sep 7, 2015

I agree with MossRoad: bigger tires undo much of the advantages of a PT, i.e. lowers torque, and reduces the safety side slope. I also think his method of cultivation sounds good to me.

Given where you are planning to move, you might consider tilling, followed by plastic sheeting overlay to conserve water. With plastic, there is no further weeding or cultivation.
YMMV...
For steep slopes (30+ degrees), even the 1445 could use more HP. I think on low slopes, I don't think is as limiting. I only use the 1445 on full throttle when mowing or tilling, when it does need all the HP. I would guess that the 1430 just tills a little more slowly, but you wouldn't notice it.

Do I think it is worth the difference in price? I think it is good value, but it comes down to whether you need to mow slopes, or whether you really care about how fast the tilling gets done. For me, slope mowing was the essential job, so the question for me was more of can a 1445 do it, or do I need an 1850? For my needs the 1445 was good enough. Not that I don't have 1850 envy now and again, but the 1850 can't do lots of things that I do do with my 1445, like lift heavy pallets and dump buckets over high fences, or well out beyond the edge of a retaining wall. So, for me, I am a very happy camper, and I know that for what I need this is the best tractor going. Of course, that doesn't mean it is the best tractor for everyone.

All the best,

Peter

AKDirtGrubber said:
Hi Peter - I agree with you that the PT probably isn't the best tool to plow dirt with but I hope the PT will be able to do it even it isn't designed for it. What is your opinion of taller tires/wheels to get more clearance? Most of our row crops will be on the flat part of the property (about 10-20 600' rows) so I wont be side hilling it wearing taller rubber.
Since you have the 1445 do you feel the power/weight/capability-ratio favors greatly the '45 over the '30? Do you think the 1445 is worth another 5k over the 1430?

Oh forgot to mention about the Goat Slopes... yes only goats would tread these! When I walk this part of our property I can reach straight out and touch the hillside. Steep stuff.
Brad

AKDirtGrubber · Sep 7, 2015

Okay guys the PT wouldn't be the greatest "tractor". Got it.

What I am trying to grasp is the capabilities, er the "feel" of the machines. When one is working the machine hard does it want to stall out for lack of power or lack of traction? Say when mowing a 15 or 20 degree slope will these tend to bog down or is there power to spare? Without having the ability to test one locally and before I commit to a long plane ride I'm just trying to wrap my mind around their limits.

I agree with you all and if I were to row crop with this machine it would be tilling with a bed former and a roll of plastic mulch after. While I would want to plumb and put a 3pt on the back cultivation and pulling a plow are musings mostly to understand their strength. It might be that additional to the 1430 I should get a small Kubota too. Just in Brad's fantasy world I would be able to "do it all" with one machine.

Thanks everybody for your input,

Brad

woodlandfarms · Sep 7, 2015

I have a 60HP tractor so take my response with a thin grain of sand.... My PT Tends to break out before stall, but I can and do stall all the time. I greatly impoved my PT traction by adding chains year round. On the downside, I can do 45 degree slopes sideways but I have a third of the slide slope traction I had.

YMMV because of your soil and what is on top.

SpringHollow · Sep 7, 2015

Hi Carl,

Are you saying that you loose 2/3rds of your sideways traction on steep hills when using chains?

Ken

ponytug · Sep 8, 2015

I think it depends on your soil and vegetation what the benefits of chains are.

For me, mowing, they are night and day- almost no sideways crabbing with chains. The tractor "feels" stuck like velcro on the slope. On dry soil, driving up a hillside, I get very little benefit, as the chains dig dry soil and gravel out, making scars and slippage worse than just tires.

Back to AKDirtGrubber's questions: If you need slope mowing, or the ability to transport on slopes, these are the machines.

They have a bunch of other advantages, including having low impact on grass and soils, easy to use, and incredibly versatile with the quick attach in the front. Having grown up with 3PT hitches, it takes some getting used to, but for most things (other than plowing and using a box blade), I think being in front is easier.

PTs don't really bog down much. Can I bog my machine? Yes. Have I stalled it? Yes- I probably stall it two or three times a year. Is it an issue for me? No. Why? Variable hydraulic drive lets you apply just enough load on the engine.

Here is my normal operating procedure: You set the engine to wide open throttle, where it runs at max HP and close to maximum fuel economy/HP. With a continuously variable hydraulic drive, you modulate your forward speed by the work required to move forward. That work is a combination of mowing (think short grass vs thick lush growth) and the slope (hill climbing). After a fairly short learning curve, you learn to keep both feet on the forward/reverse pedals, and ask for just enough forward motion to keep everything running smoothly. It sounds harder than it is. (I think.)

For non-mowing work around the farm, I have my 1445 running at about 1/3rd throttle. I don't need full speed if I have 1500lbs of mulch- I'm trying to keep it from bouncing out of the bucket.

I think that standard tractors on slopes are a great way to get a funeral. I've lost too many neighbors over the years to normal tractors on slopes. I know lots of folks who do and survive, but that is not to say that it is safe. Speaking from experience, you go from fine to (almost) gone in an instant. Just my opinion. Nevertheless, tractor rollover deaths remains the #1 cause of death on farms.

Stay safe.

All the best,

Peter

woodlandfarms · Sep 8, 2015

Sorry, meant to say I feel I have a lost 1/3 of my traction when I get severe on slopes with chains. It is another element slopping around between my tires and the ground. Unless the chains are supper tight, I tend to feel that sideways traction is overall looser, but I am talking over 35 degree slopes. Then again, tire inflation should be only a few pounds and I am always over inflated.

But for everything else, it is like wow man, chains really take the PT up a notch.

MossRoad · Sep 8, 2015

AKDirtGrubber said:
Kent - As I have stated I would like to do traditional tractor work with the PT. I know we can double up on the wheels to make the slope work safer but have you seen someone add taller tires/wheels to get more clearance? Do you think this would rob me of much of the wheel torque?

Brad

If you add taller tires, that'll change the "gearing" and you'll reduce what pulling capacity you have. It will go faster top-end speed instead.

So, if you wanted taller tires, you'd have to first make sure they aren't so tall as to hit each other in a turn, then you'd have to put on larger displacement wheel motors to make up for the loss of torque. Make sense?

AKDirtGrubber · Sep 9, 2015

MossRoad said:
If you add taller tires, that'll change the "gearing" and you'll reduce what pulling capacity you have. It will go faster top-end speed instead.

So, if you wanted taller tires, you'd have to first make sure they aren't so tall as to hit each other in a turn, then you'd have to put on larger displacement wheel motors to make up for the loss of torque. Make sense?

Or just step up and get the 1445. More HP, bigger tires more capability. I'm believing this is the way we will be heading. My wife's only wish is that it could come in PT green instead of red!

Thanks MR for your input! -Brad

AKDirtGrubber · Sep 9, 2015

Peter - Thanks for your your tips and advice. It looks like we will be joining you in the '45er club.

What type of chains do you use? - Brad

ponytug · Sep 9, 2015

The chain tip is from Ken. Thanks again!

I have two pairs of "Reinforced European Style Net Chain" from Snow Tire Chains - TireChains.com They fit the 10x16.50 loader tires that are standard on the PT 1445. Tractor Tire Chain

It took me a couple of uses to get the hang of them, but now I can get all four of them on in about ten minutes and fully tight in another three to four minutes. They are really nice chains; well designed, tough and seem to do a great job velcroing the tractor to the hillside, at least with my soil and mowing habits.

I'm sure that you could take the PT1445 by a body shop and get it painted green to match the trees.

Of course it might make it harder to find you in the woods. :laughing:

A couple of tips: I would recommend running the machine at less than 50% throttle and 50% load for the first 15 hours, and try to run it multiple cycles (cold / warm / cold). Try to avoid any hydraulic shocks (pressure surges) in the early days. It will help seat the seals and settle the hose couplings. (Go over all, and I do mean all, of the hose ends with a wrench every couple of uses for the first 20-30 hours. I had hoses mysteriously loosen after being tight. Residual stress in the hose? Torque? Beats me. But I had a few minor leaks.) I bought a set of angled open end wrenches 1/2" to 2" that I use all the time on the hoses.

Oh, and buy all the implements that you think you will need now. Getting a pallet by itself from PT to AK won't be cheap. I'd post a list here for feedback.

All the best,

Peter