Prefered method of checking coolant life?

[Rmd8136]

I have a JD 5065e and will only put 100 hours per year on it. The owner's manual says to flush every 2 years. If that is necessary I will do it. Can you experienced guys tell me if corrosion will be a problem if I only use JD Cool Guard II and never put anything but distilled water in it if i mix my own? Also, where is the drain plug for block? And if you flush it do you need to remove thermostat?

 

[fieldman12]

John Deere recommends 6 years or 6 thousand hours for cool gard II as long as you do not add any other type of coolant to top it off. As long as you do the testing with the test strips you should be fine. They will let you know of any problems located.

 

[Rmd8136]

Can I assume my 5065e has Cool Gard II from factory? The manual does not say. It was built in Dec 2012.

 

[Bud Walters]

you CAN assume that it has Cool Guard II in it, but it never hurts to ask. That is what your dealer is for. You do not have to flush it when you change the coolant, just drain it completely. I think it will be better to leave a small amount of used coolant,rather than a small amount of new water, as water is full of free oxygen, which then proceeds to corrode (rust). Your manual has a part in the maintenance section that states how John Deere thinks you should treat the cooling system. The drain plug will be in a picture there. It never hurts to read through the whole manual , especially the maintenance sections, to familiarize yourself with the requirements. (RYFM- emphasized in 1972 by my first mechanical teacher on the first day of my apprenticeship

 

[Rmd8136]

I agree on leaving old coolant vs water. I asked my dealer and he said yes regarding Cool Gard II. I will note that some on here have shared dealer decisions that contradict Deere policy. One in particular was a gentleman who had his tractor in for Warranty work and dealer changed oil using Synthetic oil at 25 hours. Deere specifically suggests 100 hours on break-in oil. I am new to tractors and really appreciate the collective wisdom here. But I trust and then verify since I am new. I have read my manual completely and in the coolant flush section is says to drain the block separate from the radiator drain. There is no location identified for the block drain plug. Maybe I am missing it. The local dealer said the radiator drain would drain all of it. At this point I am skeptical of that. I found a bolt about the same elevation as where I think the bottom of cooling jacket would be on side of engine. My manual also says to remove thermostat during the 10 minute runs of water only ( then water plus flush solution) going through flushing procedure. I am not to 2 year point and I have only used pre-mix Cool Gard II when topping off. I would like to go more than 2 years before flushing. The 6 year advice given using Cool Gard II sounds enticing. My manual says 2 years. They might have written it assuming some would used non distilled water or other coolants that promote corrosion? Anyway if anyone knows of the block drain plug location for a 5065e I would appreciate that and any other proven methods of avoiding corrosion. Thanks

 

[Tx Jim]

I think it will be better to leave a small amount of used coolant,rather than a small amount of new water, as water is full of free oxygen, which then proceeds to corrode (rust).

Please explain your theory of "free oxygen" in H2O? I would think the minerals in the water when flushing would cause problems but didn't know water had "free oxygen" I was taught metal submerged under water rusted VERY SLOWLY.

 

[the old grind]

Fish are 'breathing' absorbed (free) oxygen that's not within the H2O molecules. Submerged metal will see O2 at whatever that concentration is, and it's not much compared to the ~20% O2 of air. (You know what happens when you mix 'em right ...)

Whatever proportion of coolant capacity remains when drained, whether water or old juice it seems you'd just consider the replacement diluted either in strength or in purity accordingly and pick one. 10% or 20% of whichever once you calculate or measure, no? What would you be comfortable with for the effort, esp if you're not planning to stretch the new batch beyond reason? I guess we're all stuck with something. :confused3: (Gotta use distilled water ...)

The better we can test, the less we'd repeat a chore for nothing without sacrificing protection, and I'm sure most of us have gotten away with a lot of neglect in our checkered pasts. I really like the test strips, if not the details of using/reading them (just a matter of practice?). I also believe there's room to bring back the refractometer (not for everyone's budget, btw) and think we might be missing something if we didn't look closer at sacrificial anodes. :2cents:

 

[fieldman12]

Can I assume my 5065e has Cool Gard II from factory? The manual does not say. It was built in Dec 2012.

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The way to detect John Deere Cool Gard II in John Deere factory equipment is the yellow/Gold color of the coolant. My 5055E came with Cool Gard II from factory so yours should have it also if its the yellow color. Cool Gard II is not cheap to buy but from all the test I have seen from various testers of all brands, Cool Gard II is always up at or next to the top in results. Like I said six years or six thousand hours so that makes it affordable. The original Cool Gard was just as good but was a green color. They changed it slightly to meet new laws so that is why its now gold. Besides the test strips I also use the hydrometer as another mentioned. It is the most accurate way to test the freeze point. The cheaper testers that you buy at the store that you squeeze in my opinion are junk. I can take three different ones of those of the same brand and get a little different reading on each.

 

[fieldman12]

I always try to flush all the old coolant out of the system. I run it until the thermostat kicks open. I shut it down to cool a little and then drain. I just flush it three or four times until the water is clear. I personally don't worry about removing the thermostat.

 

[Bud Walters]

if you went to a tractor or truck or automotive shop and ask for a coolant change they will drain the coolant ,maybe at 2 or 3 points, and add new coolant, not worrying about the little remainder. You can get really obsessive about getting all the old coolant out. Even if you plan on keeping your tractor for 40 years, doing it like this whenever the corrosion protection is used up, will suffice for as long as YOU own it.
a bulb tester will suffice , if you take it to a reliable repair shop, compare it to their tester and use it accordingly.it only tests freeze protection. you will also need test strips appropriate to the type of coolant you have and maintain corrosion protection. if 50/50 premix coolant is sufficient for where you live and you change it every 2 years, you will never need to worry about coolant--ever.
by the way-coolant is much more environmentally damaging than engine or trans oil, so dispose of it accordingly