Pressure treated question

[RobA]

I recently had my pond drained for repairs and will be building a stationary dock before I fill it back up. After looking into it I have decided to use wood for the piers. Probably 6x6's. Is the pressure treated lumber sold at the big box stores suited for this? Or will I need something different? Are there marine grade posts? Where can I get them?

 

[RobA]

I recently had my pond drained for repairs and will be building a stationary dock before I fill it back up. After looking into it I have decided to use wood for the piers. Probably 6x6's. Is the pressure treated lumber sold at the big box stores suited for this? Or will I need something different? Are there marine grade posts? Where can I get them?

 

[CurlyDave]

I know that marine grade posts exist, but I have no idea where to get them.

15 years ago, when I was building my house, the grade of PT sold by Home Depot was "not suitable for ground contact". If I went to a regular lumberyard they had a grade which was suitable for ground contact, so there used to be a difference.

The chemicals used to pressure treat wood have changed recently, so I don't know if this is still the case.

Go to the big box store of your choice and carefully read the stamp (not the stapled-on tag) on a piece of PT. Write it down, because there is a lot of verbiage in that stamp. Youmay have to look at a few pieces to get it all, because not all of the words come out clearly on every stamp.

Then go to a lumberyard and read a few stamps. This will tell you if there is a difference.

I have never met any clerk at a big box store who knew the truth about the PT they sold, and very few in a lumberyard know it either, but the stamp tells the story.

 

[CurlyDave]

I know that marine grade posts exist, but I have no idea where to get them.

15 years ago, when I was building my house, the grade of PT sold by Home Depot was "not suitable for ground contact". If I went to a regular lumberyard they had a grade which was suitable for ground contact, so there used to be a difference.

The chemicals used to pressure treat wood have changed recently, so I don't know if this is still the case.

Go to the big box store of your choice and carefully read the stamp (not the stapled-on tag) on a piece of PT. Write it down, because there is a lot of verbiage in that stamp. Youmay have to look at a few pieces to get it all, because not all of the words come out clearly on every stamp.

Then go to a lumberyard and read a few stamps. This will tell you if there is a difference.

I have never met any clerk at a big box store who knew the truth about the PT they sold, and very few in a lumberyard know it either, but the stamp tells the story.

 

[dcondo]

RobA - Pressure treated posts should not be placed in a water body. It is illegal in PA and in most states. The preservative will leach into the water. Since your pond is already drained, you could go with masonry or solid concrete. Make sure you re-bar it to tie everything together because ice in the winter can cause you a problem. Other than that, you could use a synthetic (i.e., plastic) post. They are more expensive, but will easily outlast any wood product. That is what I would use.

 

[dcondo]

RobA - Pressure treated posts should not be placed in a water body. It is illegal in PA and in most states. The preservative will leach into the water. Since your pond is already drained, you could go with masonry or solid concrete. Make sure you re-bar it to tie everything together because ice in the winter can cause you a problem. Other than that, you could use a synthetic (i.e., plastic) post. They are more expensive, but will easily outlast any wood product. That is what I would use.

 

[PBinWA]

You can special order it from most real lumber stores (and probably The Home Despot) but you need to know what you want.

Check out this site:

http://www.wwpinstitute.org/

Lots of good info there.

PB

 

[PBinWA]

You can special order it from most real lumber stores (and probably The Home Despot) but you need to know what you want.

Check out this site:

http://www.wwpinstitute.org/

Lots of good info there.

PB

 

[PineRidge]

Why not consider a cantilever dock or even a floating one for that matter. Both will last longer than one held up with posts.

 

[PineRidge]

Why not consider a cantilever dock or even a floating one for that matter. Both will last longer than one held up with posts.

 

[EddieWalker]

Rob,

I wouldn't worry about Preasure Treated wood in the water unless it's illegal in your area. There are some people who think it leaches out poison and will kill your fish, but the amount that comes out is so minimal to be insignificant.

Why use 6x6 posts?

A set of 4x4 posts every six feet will give you plenty of strength and save you a bunch of money. Most patio decks are 4x4 posts and are spread out allot further than a dock will be.

There is a higher grade PT for docks, but I wouldn't worry about it for a home application.

If it was mine, I'd buy regular PT 4x4 posts, put them in the ground and pack with dirt. I'd space them four feet apart for the width of the deck and every six feet for your run.

Then a PT 2x6 across the tops of the posts and three or four across that for the run. The spacing would depend on what you want to use for deck material.

I like 12 inch centers and 5/4 PT decking.

For a dock, I'd also consider using stainless steel screws.

Have fun,
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Rob,

I wouldn't worry about Preasure Treated wood in the water unless it's illegal in your area. There are some people who think it leaches out poison and will kill your fish, but the amount that comes out is so minimal to be insignificant.

Why use 6x6 posts?

A set of 4x4 posts every six feet will give you plenty of strength and save you a bunch of money. Most patio decks are 4x4 posts and are spread out allot further than a dock will be.

There is a higher grade PT for docks, but I wouldn't worry about it for a home application.

If it was mine, I'd buy regular PT 4x4 posts, put them in the ground and pack with dirt. I'd space them four feet apart for the width of the deck and every six feet for your run.

Then a PT 2x6 across the tops of the posts and three or four across that for the run. The spacing would depend on what you want to use for deck material.

I like 12 inch centers and 5/4 PT decking.

For a dock, I'd also consider using stainless steel screws.

Have fun,
Eddie

 

[GabeTX]

Try going straight to a manufacturer/pole yard. I had odd post requirements (e.g., 12' x 8", 14' x 5") for the deer fence I built, and ended up buying a truckload of posts straight from these guys: http://www.americanpoleandtimber.com/

They can pressure treat to whatever specification you want. I had my brace posts treated to .60 lbs/ft^3, which is a freshwater immersion rating. If you ask for a "marine" treatment, you'll get 2.5 lbs/ft^3, which is intended for saltwater applications.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The chemicals used to pressure treat wood have changed recently, so I don't know if this is still the case.)</font>
Only for PT wood intended for residential and playground use. For those applications, the industry has voluntarily switched from CCA to ACQ treatment. For commercial and aggricultural applications, CCA is still widely used.

 

[GabeTX]

Try going straight to a manufacturer/pole yard. I had odd post requirements (e.g., 12' x 8", 14' x 5") for the deer fence I built, and ended up buying a truckload of posts straight from these guys: http://www.americanpoleandtimber.com/

They can pressure treat to whatever specification you want. I had my brace posts treated to .60 lbs/ft^3, which is a freshwater immersion rating. If you ask for a "marine" treatment, you'll get 2.5 lbs/ft^3, which is intended for saltwater applications.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The chemicals used to pressure treat wood have changed recently, so I don't know if this is still the case.)</font>
Only for PT wood intended for residential and playground use. For those applications, the industry has voluntarily switched from CCA to ACQ treatment. For commercial and aggricultural applications, CCA is still widely used.

 

[zeuspaul]

We wrap our marine wood piles in heavy vinyl. It restricts the oxygen and the piles last a lot longer.

Zeuspaul

 

[zeuspaul]

We wrap our marine wood piles in heavy vinyl. It restricts the oxygen and the piles last a lot longer.

Zeuspaul

 

[texasjohn]

I can only give you my experience... I started building fence on my place 25 years ago... Penta treated posts were used for the corners and braces... and line posts. I am now having to go thru and replace all posts because many, many have simply rotted away.. both in and out of the ground... particularly vexing is that these WERE supposedly ground contact qualified for 30 years. I'm purchasing no more wooden posts. Am using 2400 to 2800 lb concrete culverts (defective and free from a defunct culvert manufacturer) for the corners and metal T posts along the line.

My net... drop the idea of wooden posts and go with metal or something that won't rot.

 

[texasjohn]

I can only give you my experience... I started building fence on my place 25 years ago... Penta treated posts were used for the corners and braces... and line posts. I am now having to go thru and replace all posts because many, many have simply rotted away.. both in and out of the ground... particularly vexing is that these WERE supposedly ground contact qualified for 30 years. I'm purchasing no more wooden posts. Am using 2400 to 2800 lb concrete culverts (defective and free from a defunct culvert manufacturer) for the corners and metal T posts along the line.

My net... drop the idea of wooden posts and go with metal or something that won't rot.

 

[rox]

Okay I know nothing about this but I had a wild idea.

Would it work to take culverts and use them as a form and jsut pour cement into them, and leave the culvert pipe over top of the cement? Like I said probably a dumb idea...

 

[rox]

Okay I know nothing about this but I had a wild idea.

Would it work to take culverts and use them as a form and jsut pour cement into them, and leave the culvert pipe over top of the cement? Like I said probably a dumb idea...